time switch dial stopped

[Rita G.]

hi everybody, i'm using a Intermatic T101R201 mechanical time switch & noticed that the pump was not shutting down at night (as usual) & discovered that the clock dial is not turning... so I have been shutting it down and starting it with manual 'on-off' switch.
anybody know how to make that dial start turning again.

 

[Voodoo_Pool]

If the timer dial isn't moving then the motor may have died. Check this link to be sure the wiring is ok http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire ... timer.html

You can also get a new motor from them if that is indeed the case.

Good luck!

 

[Rita G.]

thanks V_P. i'll look into it this week & report back.

 

[woodyp]

Check it for dirt dobbers or fire ants!

 

[Poolschoolgrad]

I had the same issue a few years ago and was able to replace just the time clock motor.
Complete timer mechanism was $60 which I could have replaced in about 15-20 minutes. The time clock motor only from Grainger was less than $20 which took an additional 15-20 minutes to install inside the timer mechanism.
Be sure to order the correct voltage clock for your timer.

 

[Rita G.]

I just want to thank you all for your replies & your help. You're all very kind and one thing I know for sure: I would have NEVER figured this out on my own...
Anyway, we opened the box and it was clean; no bugs or dirt. We removed the mechanism , unscrewed & tested the motor...dead! Ordered a replacement (emailed intermatic & they said replacement motor for WG430-3 would be WG430-10D) .
Will report back with results after new motor is installed .

 

[Rita G.]

..ooops..forgot to report back...sorry.
put new motor in on 6/30 and works perfectly; thanks again!

 

[pool shark]

I encountered the same issue with my clock not working, but I can manually turn my pump on and off. I had replaced the clock timer with the correct replacement, WG1573. With the new clock timer installed, it still does not work. I measured voltage across the clock motor - 240v as specified. I was wondering how you tested your motor?

I also just had clock motor connected with power and not connected to timer wheel to see if the timer wheel was frozen, but it still did not turn. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[Bama Rambler]

Those clock motors turn very slow. You probably can't see it turn. The best thing to do is install it and hook it up and come back an hour or two later and see if the dial has moved.

 

[scooperhsd]

You should be able to see some gears moving behind the front plate (there should be a hole so you can do this).

 

[pool shark]

I looked through the little "viewing window" on the timer to see if it was moving, it didn't look like it. I thought the same thing, maybe it was moving really slow, so I hooked it up and left it. I came back in a couple of hours and the clock had not moved from the time I left it. It is very strange. It is possible that the motor is bad new out of the box, but I ordered two motors(one is for my sprinkler timer that also died). They have the same ratings 208-277v, just different size gears. I hooked that motor up and that one didn't work either - two bad motors???? I ordered them from grainger. I am going to have to dig deeper and see if I can figure out what is going on here. It seems to be all correctly wired.

For now, it is manually on and off :?

 

[Bama Rambler]

Have you checked the voltage to make sure you're getting 240 volts to the timer motor? I'd guess that's your problem. It would be astronomically improbable that you'd get two bad clock motors.

 

[scooperhsd]

Seconded - the wires for the timer motor need to be on terminals 1 and 3 (the line side). Terminals 2 and 4 are for the Load (in our case - the pump motor). Terminal A would be used for Neutral (for both line and load) if necessary.

 

[pool shark]

Thanks for the input from everyone. I actually didn't remove the white wires from the 1 and 3 terminals, I pulled the spade plugs from the timer motor and put them into the new motor. I checked voltage at the terminals 1 and 3 - 240v. I will have to go back and recheck everything again to make sure, but I am pretty sure I was getting 240v. I guess I wouldn't have 240v at the clock motor unless I was getting 240v at the 1 & 3 terminals. I will let you know when I double check them.

Thanks again.

 

[Ohm_Boy]

If you actually have 240v on the motor terminals and the motor is not running, then the motor is bound (either internally or by the gear train) or bad electrically. If the mechanical train is separated from the motor and the motor still doesn't run w/ voltage applied to it, then the motor is bad. If it runs while removed from the gear train, then the mechanical movement is the problem. Also, open windings can be tested w/ ohm meter (power OFF).

 

[pool shark]

I contacted Grainger where I bought the clock motors,ordered another clock motor. I received a replacement motor on Friday. I replaced the clock motor with the "new"/newest one and it works!

Turns out I received two bad clock motors from Grainger, strange. They replaced it no problem, I'm glad it works, because it was driving me crazy. I can't tell you how many times I measured the voltage on that thing....

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[Bama Rambler]

That is so strange. The chances af getting two bad motors in a row is almost non-existent. Glad you got it sorted out.

 

[TGMcCallie]

I contacted Grainger where I bought the clock motors,ordered another clock motor. I received a replacement motor on Friday. I replaced the clock motor with the "new"/newest one and it works!

Turns out I received two bad clock motors from Grainger, strange. They replaced it no problem, I'm glad it works, because it was driving me crazy. I can't tell you how many times I measured the voltage on that thing....

Thanks for everyone's input.

Exactly why I order parts from the same company that manufactured the timer even though Grainer was cheaper but look at all the time you wasted.