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Thread: Arrgghh...a leak!

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    Arrgghh...a leak!

    Well, we got the plaster done and filled the pool. Noticed that an area adjacent to the pool was turning in to a mud pit but didn't pay much mind at first since we had gotten a bit of rain and we were still awaiting the final grading. Then noticed that the last foot or so was taken an awfully lot longer to fill than the first 8'. Then noticed that the mud pit was getting muddier and muddier. Then turned off the water and, by the next am, the pool was a good 6" lower than the night before.

    PB has been good through all this...came out yesterday to inject dye into the inlets to see (I presume) if the leak was around the seals. Then plugged up the inlets to see if any additional drop. Is coming this am to see the results (and no, it doesn't seem to have dropped any more, so hopefully it's an external pipe, and one that's not under the concrete decking!)

    Meanwhile, our plaster is curing away without the benefit of any chemicals or without parts of it being submerged. PB also recognizes this potential problem and has promised to stay on top of it and any problems that may come up down the road. Anything else that I should be aware of? Will keep you posted.
    inground gunite, 18x38 freeform, 3'-9' w/ diving; 3M caymen green/blue blend; Pentair 2HP whisperflo; + aux pump for water feature; SWG; Rheem heat pump; Polaris 380; Pentair TR 100 sand filter; silverlake flagstone coping/broom finish concrete deck; NPTG Aztec cobalt tile; 18" bond beam wall with water feature

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    As long as they have fixed the leak correctly, and it looks good right now, you should be fine. If the water level stays in one place for too long while the paster is very fresh it can leave a visible line in the plaster. The chance of this happening goes down very quickly over the first couple of days and how visible such a line might end up being also goes down quickly over the same period. It is also important that the plaster not get too dry for the first few days and from the sound of things it filled up enough the first day that this shouldn't be a problem either.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
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    I'm sorry. What a bummer! This has not been an easy build for you. As I recall you hit bedrock early in your excavation. I also remember you commending your PB at that time. I am glad you have a good PB that makes this unfortunate situation a whole lot better. Keep us posted as to the fix!
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    Dave
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    Our pool-
    20x40 Free Form Gunite (3'-8'), 26,000 G, AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generator SC-48, Aqua blue pebble sheen, Textured Sundek, Pentair Easy touch with remote control, 1hp Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro pump, Max-E- Therm heater 333k BTU, System 3 Mod Media Cartridge filter, and Polaris 380 cleaner with booster pump

  4. Back To Top    #4
    The scuba diver's coming out tomorrow...They're thinking it may be the main drain and that the plasterers may have forgotten to put a plug or whatever in it. It is frustrating, but I just keep telling myself that it's our PBs problem to fix, and I'm confident he will. At least it's on the 30s and 40s here, so we're not missing swimming! Will keep you posted.
    inground gunite, 18x38 freeform, 3'-9' w/ diving; 3M caymen green/blue blend; Pentair 2HP whisperflo; + aux pump for water feature; SWG; Rheem heat pump; Polaris 380; Pentair TR 100 sand filter; silverlake flagstone coping/broom finish concrete deck; NPTG Aztec cobalt tile; 18" bond beam wall with water feature

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Good news...scuba diver came, found a plug in the main drain that wasn't plugged. Pool's holding water. Crisis averted!
    inground gunite, 18x38 freeform, 3'-9' w/ diving; 3M caymen green/blue blend; Pentair 2HP whisperflo; + aux pump for water feature; SWG; Rheem heat pump; Polaris 380; Pentair TR 100 sand filter; silverlake flagstone coping/broom finish concrete deck; NPTG Aztec cobalt tile; 18" bond beam wall with water feature

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    Guest
    thankfully it was an easy fix. good luck and post finished pics. :surprised:

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Hurray!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Dave
    -------
    Our pool-
    20x40 Free Form Gunite (3'-8'), 26,000 G, AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generator SC-48, Aqua blue pebble sheen, Textured Sundek, Pentair Easy touch with remote control, 1hp Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro pump, Max-E- Therm heater 333k BTU, System 3 Mod Media Cartridge filter, and Polaris 380 cleaner with booster pump

  8. Back To Top    #8

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    Hmm, how is plugging the bottom drains a fix? He paid to have them.
    Owner of - PoolGuyNJ LLC
    Expert Pool and Spa Repairs, Renovations, and Augmentation. Helping people decide what is the right gear for meeting their needs. Expectations Set, Expectations Met, No Surprises.

  9. Back To Top    #9
    The drains themselves weren't plugged, but apparently there was a plug or something inside the drain that should have been plugged but wasn't...
    inground gunite, 18x38 freeform, 3'-9' w/ diving; 3M caymen green/blue blend; Pentair 2HP whisperflo; + aux pump for water feature; SWG; Rheem heat pump; Polaris 380; Pentair TR 100 sand filter; silverlake flagstone coping/broom finish concrete deck; NPTG Aztec cobalt tile; 18" bond beam wall with water feature

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
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    Sounds like what our PB did - there is a hole plugged in each drain that you can open in the event that you have to drain the pool. It is supposed to help keep the pool from floating because the underground water can escape into the pool.
    7000 gallon IG freeform w/ 6 ft. spa, 21 ft weeping wall, Hayward SP4020NS Northstar pump, Colorlogic LED’s, DE6020 filter and H400IDL2 400,000btu heater. Aqua logic 8 zone controller with Aqua Rite salt chlorine generator, Stonescapes pebble finish – Aqua Blue and flagstone coping, stamped/stained concrete deck

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