My Build Thread - 27' AGP in WV

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FastCougar

FastCougar

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Jun 2, 2011
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Eastern Panhandle of WV
Today was day 1 ... what is not shown in this video is all the work we had to do to make room in my flowerbeds (project from 2 years ago) to put the displaced earth. I'm too tired to type much, hopefully will be able to say more with tomorrow's progress time-lapse video (taken on GoPro HD camera with 1 picture every 30 seconds. Tomorrow will be more sod removal along with more planning and getting the electrician out to pull in a sub-panel to the basement and run a circuit outside.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JFihOJ7xE
 
I think your "builders" like to play around in the dirt! I could feel the "fung shwei" from Ohio. I know there is another name, but I don't want to spoil it for the ones who haven't watched yet :mrgreen: Love the time lapse. Keep 'em coming. We are picture and video hounds here...the more, the better :cheers:
 
Well, I have been working from sun up to past sun down and finished the playground area and began leveling the pool site. However, I have little to nothing on my leveling efforts thanks to a snafu with my camera 2 days in a row ... doh! So, here are time-lapse vids of the playground going in :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QUz-eRi4Wc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf3bD_z7tAE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3AR4WS3HBk

Turns out that the front to back difference in the pool area was over 8 inches, requiring a ton of leveling. I'm currently at around 1.5" at the worst spots and I'm working the earth with a tiller and shaving off a 1/2" to 3/4" at the time so it should be level tomorrow ... except it's calling for major thunderstorms :(
 

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well, the rain never came and I managed to flake the time-lapse for days 7 & 8, which was me removing the majority of my earth from the pool pad area. The soil here isn't soil ... it's called "groundhog shale", which is basically rocky, shalish hardened clay bound with fine dust, compacted to the point of near solid rock strength. I removed 7+ inches in my high areas and got to within 1.5 inches of my lowest lying area. At this point, I turned to hand tilling because A) The tiller was loaned to me for free, B) The Bob-Cat was running me $266 day and C) I was afraid of getting too much scalp in some areas and preferred the fine control of the tiller. My next door neighbor is the guy who owns the rental company and since he loaned me a tool that rents for $69/day for 5 days, I got him a nice big bottle of Captain Morgan ;-)

Day 9: Cat is returned and electrician came out, ran a 100 amp sub-panel to my basement (currently being finished by me in my spare time) and then ran a line out to the pedestal with 2 outlets.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLATFG_nzFA

Day 10: I slave away with the tiller and get the entire pad area withing 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of the lowest point ... the rest will be done by hand when I "sink" the pavers that will underfoot the base plates.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM8FYjFuTMo

These videos are 10 seconds between frames vs. 30 seconds between frames, thus they are longer.
 
LOL, thanks ... finished the pavers that go under the base plates, here is a video of the last 4 pavers being set into place. Final measurements put the pool sloping only 1/8" over the 27' span ... not bad at all!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_NrfIzgvWM

I have a question about the bottom rails. I have some gaping between them and the soil and it's on every one in varying degrees. I assume I could simply back fill with a little dirt (I have about 2 tons) and then lay the sand over that after watering it down. Thoughts? I also have a Gorilla Cloth, I assume that should go over the sand (haven't read directions yet).
 

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Thanks for the replies ... one last thing ... got the wall up tonight but didn't get the liner in yet. To ensure no problems over night, snapped in the top rails and 7 of the 18 top plates and verticals and screwed them in ... wall is very stiff and weather isn't calling for wind, so we should be safe.

Question: I have a beaded liner and j-bead tracks and since the actual top decking isn't on, just the rail, it looks like I can snap the liner in no problem ... can I finish installing my verticals tomorrow before filling the pool? I read that was the advantage of a beaded liner, the ability to remove and install without removing the top rails.
 
Love our coving! We bought our pool used and it came with it. We considered not using it because a bit of it was a little beat up along the back edge and we didn't know how it would fit into the tracks. We got it in just fine and I'm glad we decided to try it anyway.
 
3,500 gallons in thus far ... at which point do I begin to consider hopping in and installing the skimmer & return and plumbing up the filter/pump? I have heard 1/2 way full, I have also heard about 3 inches below the skimmer/return holes.

BTW, I'm filling with a single water hose attached to a flow meter because our sewer department calculates your charge based on water consumption, but the bill is like 45% more than the water bill. However, if you get a registered meter ($71.50), once a year they will rebate you money when you bring your meter in for reading. I had to go this route because after the rebate, filling my pool will only run me around $250 whereas a water delivery service was quoting me nearly $800! I called the local fire stations and they can't do it because of recent insurance company policies ... I suspect the local water company had a talk with their insurer :hammer:

Oh well, good things come to those who wait ... gives me time to determine what I need to get my base chemistry setup ;-)
 
I'm getting ready to head to the store now and plan on plumbing in the SWG later, so I might as well hard plumb this now then (water is at 12.5" ... won't be doing this till tomorrow). I know I want cutoff valves so I can disconnect anything between the skimmer and return with two cutoffs and minimal spillage. I suspect I also want unions between them and the hardware. So it will go: skimmer > cut-off valve > union > tubing > pump/filter > tubing > union > cut-off valve > return jet
 
F.M.L ... liner has a hole in it running horizontally from the vertical seam on the wall. I have patched it, but because of where it is, I doubt it will hold. I'm so dejected it isn't funny! Water were I live is expensive and the sewer rates are like 45% more based on water. Luckily I have a meter and get a rebate on sewer, but not till October, so I'm going to be our hundreds as a result. The tear wasn't there on install, or yesterday, had to have formed as the result of a factory defect due to location and timing of it ... water was just above 17" last night when filling, today, just above knee high as I waded in to find the tear. I was in the pool twice yesterday inspecting the bead and also inspecting the coving area ... this formed some time last night as the water rose. I will have video up shortly of the tear repair.
 
patch appears to be holding from what I can tell ... we really need a nice dry arid day to draw all the moisture out of the ground, but it's been raining on/off for the last few hours, so I really can't tell.

[youtube:1kcu0kky]9Mb5pOe_H4k[/youtube:1kcu0kky]

After applying this patch, I removed it and redid the work so that I had an overlapping patch atop a butt jointing patch so that the original lap joint didn't come so much into play. Had to make the call to either stop and drain and wait for a new liner to move forward and not waste the 9,000 gallons I had already run. Decided to move forward and deal with the patch and hopefully it holds ... plan on patching over it again tomorrow just before running the pump for the first time. Hope this works!!!
 
patch is holding, or at least slowing the leak for sure ... only about 4 more inches to go. Today I built a platform for the filter/pump before work, then at lunch time, I plumbed it all up. Currently, waiting for the final 4 inches ... water is JUST barely over the return jet nozzle. Water temp is surprisingly hovering around 76.
 

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