Auto Pilot - Replacement cell not working

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gardenfreek

0
Jun 20, 2011
8
We just replaced our Autopilot SC-60 cell with an aftermarket cell, Compupool GRC-AP60. It has a 2 prong cord instead of 3 prong. We read that it should work fine, but we have been running the new cell for 3 days and no chlorine production :hammer:

We checked salt levels and added water conditioner. All my chemical levels are correct. Still no chlorine. The autopilot display shows everything should be working fine.

Any ideas?
 
What makes you think it isn't producing chlorine? A SWG is not designed to raise the FC level up from zero. A SWG is designed to maintain the FC level once everything is balanced and FC is in the right place to begin with.
A side conversation on the phrase "A SWG is not designed to raise the FC level up from zero" has been moved to this topic.

If you post a full set of water test results we can give you more specific advice.
 
Thank you for your advice...We did adjust our chemical levels. Here's where they are...pH is at 7.6, total alkalinity is at 80ppm, CYA is at 35, and salt is at 3100. We also put in Phosfree to reduce the Phosphae levels int he pool. Still nothing. We disconnected the cell cord to check to check the amps, when we reconnected it says "Low Amps." Is it possible that the cell cord has gone bad?
 
Put the system in Boost, wait a minute and run a TEST POOL PILOT. Are there any warning lights?
Go to the Maintenance Menu and do a FORCE REVERSE. Wait a minute and run a TEST POOL PILOT again.
You can use a multimeter to check the cell cord for continuity. The black wire is the center hole.
 
A good way to get a direct measure if a SWG is producing chlorine or not is to loosen the union on the output side of the cell just enough that a small steam of water comes up, take a sample of that water while the control panel indicates that the cell is active, and measure the FC level of that water.

A low amps error can occur when the cell is wearing out, when the cell cord is bad, or when there is a problem with the control unit. One thing to check is to make sure the main unit is properly configured for the size of cell that you are using. Telling us the volts and amps readings from the test pool pilot readings Poolsean suggested can help diagnose what is going on.
 
I am new to this forum, but am curious to know if Gardenfreek's problem was resolved by replacing the cable. I just bought a RC52 cell...because of low amp readings...probably a mistake, as I'm still getting the same message. I'm believing it's the cable, as I had a prior cable go bad. The guy that replaced it said these cables function poorly.

Is cable replacement more common that I realize? It seems they should hold up better than they do. IMO.
 
You're not going to get an AMP reading by testing the cord, unless the cell is generating chlorine (there must be a load), and you've got your multimeter inline. OK, I just re-read where you used an ampmeter...is this a DC Ampmeters?

Can you place the unit in BOOST, wait a few minutes, then run the TEST POOL PILOT, and let us know what it shows.
 

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OK...so we received the replacement cord today, and no dice. It did not solve our problem. Any ideas? We have a new Cell and new Cell cord, but we are still getting low amps readings. When we check the amps they range from 0 to well below the normal.

Any help would be appreciated:)
 
Press the pump button. If it says REMOTE RUNS PUMP, you have it configured incorrectly.

Otherwise, have you checked the fuses inside the unit? Zero volts means the power supply isn't working, which could be a fuse, or it could be broken.
 
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