Trying to go to BBB Test questions TF-100

rjg202

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 1, 2011
203
Northern Maryland (near Delaware)
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Sorry if this is redundant, I am having problems where it appears my account freezes when I post.

In order to Wean myself off of Pucks, I am not sure how to safely remove the partially eroded pucks and dispose of the liquid in the bottom of the chlorinator. They seem to be eroding very slow with water around 82 degrees. Can I leave the pucks in there or will that become caustic? I assume if I turn on the chlorinator with no pucks, it will flush the tank. I have been dumping a couple inches of water and refilling but CYA is still over 100 (off the chart on TF-100) 107 on ColorQ, I have not added pucks for maybe 10 days and my chlorine is 3-4 and PH at 7.4

Now for BBB, to add bleach is it best to just pour it in or should I mix in a bucket, I seen both, my concern is backsplash reaching over a high pool wall with a 'bucket'

TF test kit, I got a little confused between Red and Pink, for ex alkalinity at 10 drops the drop turns pink in suspension, but it takes 13 drops to turn the whole solution pinkish. Would the reading be 100 or 130? My ColorQ puts it at 107. I am guessing it would be 130 or would it be 120 since the 12'th drop was the last drop before turning pink if we consider pink red?
 
Just leave the pucks in there, leave it on, and when they dissolve, that's the end of it. There's no harm to having water go through the empty dispenser.

I just reach over as far as I can and pour the bleach straight into the return stream. If anything splashes, it will be pool water, not bleach. Remember, if you drop a rock into the pool, water splashes out, not rock. I do dilute the acid before I pour it in, however.

For the TA test, it will turn greyish, then reddish, and sometimes go to an even brighter reddish that I call Barbie Pink. So let's say at 10 drops it turns reddish, at 11 drops it gets pinker, at 12 drops it gets even brighter, and at 13 there's no more color change. 13 made no difference, so 12 is your final drop. TA = 120.
 
I read here in the forum recently about "floating" the bottle in the water and tried it two days ago.. It works really well. You can pour at water level that way, the bottle is floating so it's not heavy and nothing splashes. I took it a bit further, and floated the measuring cup as well. So I just hold it at water level and the bleach kind of drifts out slowly as water displaces it. Actually it's kinda fun watching it waft away in the dark with the pool light on.

I'm in the "create your own pool drama" mode because nothing is wrong with the water and I'm bored. Thus the great glee at floating a bleach bottle and watching it drift away in the lighted pool. sigh...
 
I just reach over as far as I can and pour the bleach straight into the return stream. If anything splashes, it will be pool water, not bleach. Remember, if you drop a rock into the pool, water splashes out, not rock. I do dilute the acid before I pour it in, however.


I did my first bleach dose last night after the kids were out.

Questions
1) I have an aqualuminator that is not an eyeball it directs the water horizontal maybe 5 degree angle. Now I turned it so it just breaks the surface and poured the bleach in there. Weird look how it 'clumps' or 'coagulates' and kind of floats a little as a blob. So is that sufficient or do I need to worry about WalMart 6% staining the liner if you pushes it along the wall? I never gave much thought but I shock there too. I went and brushed the wall in that spot but don't want to do that daily

2) how long after adding bleach can folks go in? I am assuming it is ok as long as they don't swim in the spot where I added it?

3) Pool Calculator, my pool is 52" high but filled I guess 4' it says gallons are 12,000 but other calculators show me at 10,620. Is there a Margin of safety built into the algorithm, I have been using the 10,620 but saw the pool calculator calc yesterday and will flip to that volume.

4) My water is crystal clear as I wean off of Pucks, I noticed before and last night there are fragments like a digital TV interference in my light stream at night that look like little squares. Based on some reading I really wonder if it is a filler or something in the Trichlor pucks that is just being dispersed. I tried catching a few but they seem to dissolve.

5) I saw a maybe 1/4 " clear flat thing that looked like a flimsy piece of tape floating last night, kind of reminded me of kelp but clear, could that be some form of algae looking for a home. My CYA is around 100 2 days back and we had heavy rains Chlorine is 4 trying to raise to at least 7

6) If I dump say 4 inches of water and refill, how soon before I should retest the CYA, do I need at least a turnover or 2? Also will the water turnover if my aquluminator is parallel to the surface or should I direct it down. When I do that I don't really get the circular flow.

7) I have a sprinkler/fountain attachment for my aqualuminator, Kids love it, I do to once I got the hang of putting it on. Is that considered aerating, PH is around 7.4.

8) My wife thinks I am a geek/mad scientists now since I am playing with the test kit. She don't understand why her friends can use a $5 test kit for over 20 years and why I make it so complicated. I told her she will see, remember that algae bloom last year, probably due to high CYA and not enough free chlorine to eradicate it. I am going techy on her, Thanks TFP :-D .
Thanks
 
1) You want the chlorine to disperse. Figure out some way to stir it up, even if just using the skimmer net.
2) As soon as the yellow cloud is no longer visible they can get in. They'll help disperse it.
3) Pool Calculator is straight-forward math. But if the corners are radiused, or there's a steep slop, it doesn't know. If you add based on 10,600 and come up short consistently, try 11,000. Or if you seem to overdose, reduce it a little. Plus, the water height changes with splashout, evaporation, and overfilling. It's never going to be exact.
4) Probably some crystals from the tail end of the pucks. You'll sometimes see a crust at the bottom of the bleach jug, too.
5) Clear stuff is probably a piece of scotch tape or whatever that came off a swimsuit. Or part of a price tag from a pool toy or pool brush.
6) I'd give the new water at least a day to mix before testing CYA. You should have a good estimate where it is with simple math, though. If it was 48", you drained 4", that's about 8%. So your new CYA will be 92% of the old level.
7) Yes, that's aeration.
8) I'll bet the neighbors also get tested at the Pool Store, and their maintenance expenses are huge. Let the wife get used to your pool, and someday she'll look at the neighbors' and notice it looks dull, or cloudy, or has a tint. Then she'll appreciate it.
 
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