Truly trouble-free Baquacil conversion

Apr 23, 2011
19
Delhi, CA
I struggled for over 6 weeks with a conversion from Baquacil to chlorine. I was very disciplined about testing and using the Pool Calculator to maintain the 15ppm FC level. My water cleared up within a week, but the CC level never dropped off. It just stayed between 4 and 9 ppm for weeks. I tried replacing the filter sand and making sure everything was spotless - still no joy two weeks later.

Finally, I decided to drain and refill since this was pretty easy for me to do. It took about 3 hours to drain the pool using the filter pump discharging to waste. Then about 6 or 7 hours to refill with two garden hoses feeding into the pool. So, after one day, I had fresh water.

Day two I added CYA using granular stabilizer in a filter sock hung in front of the return jet. That took about 8 hours to dissolve.

Then I brought the FC up to 6ppm with liquid chlorine after sunset on day 2. I waited an hour or so and tested to confirm I had the desired level of FC. I did. Early the next morning, I tested the water again and low and behold, I only had 0.75 ppm CC and the FC dropped by about 1ppm.

The evening of day 3, I again brought the FC level up to 6ppm. In the morning, I still had about 6ppm of FC and CC was at or below 0.5 ppm. pH has been good at about 7.3 or 7.4. The other readings are also in range (for a vinyl AG pool).

So by draining and refilling, I was able to do in about 3 days, with very little effort, what I couldn't do in 6+ weeks of constant work and large quantities of liquid chlorine. Total cost for the failed "traditional" conversion: $80 in chlorine, $50 in testing supplies and 50+ hours of labor. Total cost for the drain and refill: $4 in chlorine, roughly $2 in testing supplies, and 3-4 hours of labor. There might have been a few dollars of electric power to run our well pump to refill, but that was more than offset by the power used to run the pool filter pump for 6+ weeks 24 hours a day during the failed conversion.

If draining and refilling is a viable option for you, I strongly recommend it over the normal conversion routine. It will almost certainly be cheaper and quicker with more certain success.
 
Hmmm. I wonder why the conversion process as described works perfectly for others, but not for you. Are you sure that you maintained your FC at 15? For six weeks...at 15?? :scratch:
 
From this thread describing the details, it looks like it was done properly and most importantly the CC at the end wouldn't go away even with high chlorine levels. Though a rare occurrence, it does happen and there are two cases like this at The PoolForum as well (here and here). These two cases are Baqua pools that have used that system for many years. Tim, how long did you have your pool on Baquacil? Certainly for people with smaller pools where drain/refill isn't too hard, it's certainly an option that could end up being less expensive.

We should, however, figure out if there's any way to get "unstuck" in those cases when it happens. It might be too late to use percarbonate or other oxidizers though I believe at least one of the two current cases may try it so I'm keeping fingers crossed. Generally, exposure of the chlorine to sunlight would create hydroxyl radicals that are very powerful oxidizers and would normally take care of many types of organics in the pool, but obviously it doesn't always work even though it usually does. The percarbonate procedure as described by Orenda is in this PDF file (OXYplusâ„¢ is sodium percarbonate). This was also talked about here at TFP in this thread.
 
when i converted after 10 years of baqua, it took forever fo my cc numbers to go down. as i recall, it was about 2 months.
it was very frustrating, but in the end well worth the effort.
 
We used Baquacil in our pool right from the start which was about 2.5 years ago. We set it up half way through the first season, then had two full years after that. I agree that if the conversion goes as anticipated, it should be a pretty easy process. It just didn't work out for me for some reason. And maintaining 15ppm for that long requires a LOT of chlorine when something is inexplicably consuming it.

The drain and refill was so easy and cheap for me to do that even a successful conversion would have been more expensive and labor-intensive. But I live on 10 acres in the country with my own well. I could easily drain the pool to an open piece of ground and only had to pay for the electricity to run my well pump to fill it up. If you live in town with no handy spot to dump a lot of water and must pay for city water via a water meter, a conversion is probably a preferable route.
 
So over at The PoolForum the two people who had problems getting their CC level down were both using the Baquacil CDX system. Not all biguanide systems use that -- most just use biguanide/PHMB as the sanitizer and hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizer. Baquacil CDX is an additional component which is 5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMH) which is the same compound found in bromine tablets, but without any bromine or chlorine attached to it. It may be that this particular compound is the one causing the difficulty, though I find it surprising that so many of these biguanide conversions work well and I can't imagine that there aren't some of them using Baquacil CDX, but maybe that's the case.
 
In my conversion thread last year (yet-another-baquacil-conversion-thread-t24136.html), my parents' pool had been on Baquacil for over 10 years, and had a high level of sanitizer when we started (40-50 ppm). The conversion was pretty painless, though; the water cleared in two days and the conversion was complete in a little over a week. We hit it with a lot of chlorine at the start, though. (A little too much, in fact. :oops:) I think it took 30-40 gallons of 10% bleach total.

They were using the ordinary Baquacil system, NOT Baquacil CDX.
 
as i stated earlier, it took me 2 months to finally reach 0 on cc. i was on baquacil for 10 years,
and the last two with the cdx system. maybe the cdx is the problem in converting.
 
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