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Thread: Professional method for pump installation

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    Professional method for pump installation

    Hello,

    My existing filter pump burned out a couple of weeks ago, and I am going to buy either an IntelliFlo 4x160 or an Ikeric Dyna-Miser VS150 tomorrow. The IntelliFlo is undoubtedly more efficient on the motor side than the Ikeric, but the Ikeric uses a very common motor, unlike the IntelliFlo. The only thing I don't like about the Ikeric is that the motor is ODP (open drip proof) as compared to the IntelliFlo being TEFC (totally enclosed, fan-cooled), but my existing ODP motor lasted in the outdoors and the rain and filter drainings for 11 years. The final decision will come down to relative price.

    The title above refers to professional installation methods for the pump, but I think I am looking for "better than professional" installation tips since the "professionals" who installed the replacement pump 11 years ago never bothered to fasten the motor to the concrete equipment pad. The pump merely sits there and is "held" in place only by the inlet and outlet PVC piping.

    What is the best way to install the new pump on the equipment pad? Should I install a rubber base under the pump? Should I be bolting the pump to the equipment pad?

    Also, I am pretty sure that the IntelliFlo (which uses a WhisperFlo wet-end) and the Ikeric (which now uses a Hayward TriStar wet-end) will not match the piping for the existing Hayward Super II pump. Any tips for redoing the piping, other than installing unions? I am familiar with dry-fitting the piping before gluing, but it seems that after gluing that the fittings never quite fit like they did during the dry-fitting. How do the professionals handle retrofit plumbing jobs where the final piping dimensions must match up perfectly with existing equipment and existing piping?

    Thanks for any thoughts, ideas, criticisms, etc.

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    I am not a PVC expert but I have done some plumbing. PVC joints almost never go in all the way when dry fitting, so dry fitting is of limited use. The basic plan is to figure out where the final joint is going to be and work one piece at a time from both ends towards there. If space is limited you really want a union, otherwise it will be nearly impossible to get the final joint together. If you have more room you can place the final joint somewhere there will be a fair amount of flex available so you can get the joint together.

    A rubber mat and short sections of radiator hose are sometimes used as sound isolation, so sounds don't transmit from the pump to the ground or pipes, though this isn't really all that common.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    JasonLion,

    Thank you for the reply and the tips for modifying the PVC plumbing.

    Does everyone leave the pump loose on the equipment pad, or is anyone bolting the pump down onto the concrete?

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Titanium
    JasonLion,

    Thank you for the reply and the tips for modifying the PVC plumbing.

    Does everyone leave the pump loose on the equipment pad, or is anyone bolting the pump down onto the concrete?

    Titanium
    mine sits in two cinder blocks, not bolted down and both the pump and filter dont sit ona pad, just cinderblock, in an old shack with rotton wood and i looks like if i kick it, it will fall over.

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Does everyone leave the pump loose on the equipment pad, or is anyone bolting the pump down onto the concrete?
    Interesting question....I don't know the answer. I chose (perhaps unwisely) to leave mine unbolted when I installed it.

    My thinking was that I knew it would be close to impossible to relieve all tension on the PVC If I bolted it down. I decided I would rather have the pump free to seek the spot where the PVC would be under the least "bind".

    At least in this case, it has worked well for five years....no leaks....pump disconnected and reconnected at least twice during that time. (I used unions)
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  6. Back To Top    #6

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    FWIW,

    my pump was unprofessionally installed by a supposed professionals. they didn't bolt it down, and based on their other work, I could almost guarantee you that if they had, they would've screwed it up.

    anyway... I've got 4x160, and it is so quiet and vibration-free that I really think bolting it down would be much overkill. Depending on the rpm setting and ANY surrounding noise, sometimes you have to put your hand on it to feel it to determine if its on.

    my booster (cleaner) pump and my spa jet pump (3hp whisperflo) aren't bolted down either and both seem to be okay, with no excessive vibration or movement.

    if it were me, I'd try it first w/o securing it, then go from there if you see a need to...

    good luck!!
    18,000 gallon gunite free form, with spa, 4x160, EasyTouch, SWCG, Pentair cartr filter, Colorlogic lights.

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Mine sits on two cinder blocks, on a rubber pad; not bolted down. Connects to the inlet and outlet by unions. Never had a bit of trouble. When rehooking up the pump; it helps to have some movement to hook up the unions.
    Hotrod30

    20 X 40 foot vinyl Borates and Salt Pool
    Rolachem Chlorine Feeder
    Hayward 27 inch sand filter with 80 lbs of pea gravel
    Jacuzzi Splash Pak SP55 DE filter in parallel
    Pentair VF3050 pump

  8. Back To Top    #8

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    Neither of my pumps are bolted to the pad.
    15,500 gal, inground gunite pool with 7 ft spa, 2 speed pump 2hp/.33hp, 3/4 hp booster pump, Intermatic P1353 timer, AutoPilot SC-48, Sand filter with ZeoBest, Heater, that I never use . . .

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