First time tester!!

[TrentonTom]

I got my new TFtest kit today. Bought the heavy duty XL edition. Opened pool on Memorial day weekend to a green monster. Hit it with 6 lb shock and it boiled up nice with dead stuff on the top. Got water tested at pool store and had these numbers
FC=.5
TC=1
CC=.5
pH=8.9 yikes
Hardness=160 ppm
Alkalinity=280 ppm yikes
Cya=10
Salt = 2510
temp=81

Added three bags of salt, 4 lbs stabilizer and set to super chlorinate.


Tested today with my new chemistry set and things looked like this
FC=1
CC= not tested
TC=1
pH=above 8.2 yikes again
TA=320+
CYA=55
temp=88

Pump bit the bullet today so no circulation. New one tomorrow and I will get another store test while I am there to see if my numbers are close..
Clearing up nice but still a little cloudy with some debris on bottom. After new pump will vacuum tomorrow. Slowly but surely getting it there. Thanks for all the help. TOM

 

[JasonLion]

I'm sorry to hear about your pump.

You need to bring the PH down as soon as you get the pump working again.

 

[TrentonTom]

Jason, I have the acid ready as soon as we are circulating again.

 

[TrentonTom]

New pump. 1.5hp pentair. Arghh.
Tested today.
FC=15.5 SWG is obviously working again after super chlorinate. Bigger pump have an impact?
CC=0
TC=15.5
pH=8.2+
T/A=180? On the test does the entire vial need to turn red? Or just when you add the drop? Drop turns red for just a bit and then disappears.
CYA=80
Temp=77

We had 2 inches of rain over the weekend and the pool water dropped almost 10 degrees in two days. Water is crystal clear but I just cannot get the pH to cooperate.

 

[Richard320]

pH won't read accurately with FC that high. If you're done shocking (clear, CC<.5, paased OCLT) let the FC come down below 10, then adjust it. With your TA, it's going to pop right back up for a while, so get used to pH testing and adding acid frequently.

 

[duraleigh]

but I just cannot get the pH to cooperate.

Then you must make it cooperate.

Let your FC drift down below 10ppm so you can get an accurate test.

Then test and lower your pH. The answer is muriatic acid and you can dose it every hour until it get into the mid 7's.

I would not address anything else until the pH is lowered.

 

[TrentonTom]

Chlorine is back in range (3). pH still high (8+). Turned SWG to 10% output and the pump runs 24/7. Added acid last night will check again this evening. Question on the TA test. Does the entire cylinder of test water need to stay red after the drop, or just the drop that hits the water? Thanks for all the help. Water is crystal clear but high pH.

 

[zea3]

Yes, the entire cylinder should turn red. You continue to add drops until there is no change in the color, then subtract the last drop before calculating the results.

 

[TrentonTom]

FC = 2.5
pH = 7.8
Starting to notice scale accumulation on bottom. Hardness problem?
Will test again this evening, supposed to be near 100 degrees all weekend.
Pool will be a popular place the next few days.

 

[TrentonTom]

How often should I replace the chemicals in my test kit? This will be the third year and I would bet that they are about shot. TOM

 

[duraleigh]

I got my new TFtest kit today. Bought the heavy duty XL edition.

How often should I replace the chemicals in my test kit? This will be the third year and I would bet that they are about shot. TOM

???????

 

[mk1]

first post June 2011.....

 

[Richard320]

You must not test much if you still have some left!

Too bad you missed the preseason refill sale. I'd replace things now.

 

[TrentonTom]

It is really just the chlorine drop test kit that I am wondering about. The rest of the kit seems to be fine.