Hard plumbing advice

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M

msummers

0
Apr 27, 2011
26
Myrtle Beach, SC
First of all what a great resource this is. Thanks so much. I would like to hard plumb my pool at the end of the season and need some advice as to what I need and the layout.
1. I am in PA and saw someone post that they put a union before the shutoff. Should I do that or not?
2. I also have a Pentair Aqualuminator does this work ok (79202900 Hard plumbing adapter) -- has anyone used it ? http://www.mdsupplycenter.com/Hard-Plum ... 79533.html
3. How difficult is it to remove the fitting that is currently in the skimmer -- I just don't want to crack it?
4. Should I use flex pvc for a portion of it -- I read this link about vibration -- http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/ ... tly/view/2 -- about 3/4 down the page.
5. If I do use flex pvc -- do you use cleaner, primer and cement -- or does it damage the integrity (by using the primer)
6. What type of ball valves should I use jandy or praher single union ball valve and eliminate 2 of the unions?
7. What type of unions should I use -- sched 40 or praher type?
8. Back to cleaner/primer/cement -- what is the best -- recommended?
9. Is this place decent for pricing -- or is there somewhere else I should look : http://www.poolcenter.com/plumbing_supplies.htm
10. I am thinking that to relieve weight I should run the pvc all the way to the ground -- correct or no?
11. I am thinking of just leaving the filter to pump the waste to drain lines alone with just clamps -- ok or no?
12. Do I use teflon tape and paste or just tape on the fittings that screw in.
13. Finally fittings do I need -- I am thinking 6 - 90s, 4 unions, 2 ball valves, the pentair fitting (but how to attach to pvc pipe -- or would it just glue on to the ball valve or union depending on #1), 3 male fittings, a maybe few couplings and pipe. And is 1 1/2" or do I need 2" in which case I would need reducers -- right?

Pool is 21' round with 1 1/2 hp Hayward power flo xl

Thanks
Mark
 
1) A union is nice so you can disconnect the equipment and remove it for the winter.
3) That should be simple enough.
4) Vibration isn't a huge issue. Flex is alright, but all rigid is usually better.
6) Better valves cost more, and work better. Hard to say what the cost/value tradeoff is for you.
8) Anything rated for schedule 40 pressure applications.
9) They are alright. There are many many choices on the Internet.
10) If you keep the plumbing runs short this is not crucial. Longer runs should be supported somehow.
11) Sure.
12) I use just paste for any threaded fitting larger than 1".
12) 1.5" is fine for these short runs. 4 unions sounds excessive, isn't 3 enough?
 
Thanks Jason.

1. I was wondering more on the union location -- is it ok to put it above the ball valve and if so does it matter which way it is oriented. What I am envisioning is unscrewing from underneath and then the o-ring part along with the the ball valve and the rest of the pipe could come in doors. Does the union have a top/bottom per se to follow water flow (I am just thinking of potential leaks)

4) The reason why I mentioned it was due to this post as well: another-needed-upgrade-and-why-pic-t12744.html suggesting "For the sake of preventing vibrations breaking your jet and skimmer connections, I think Id put a Fernco (rubber coupling) fitting somewhere in each line" If that is recommended how and where would they go?

8) Is the Rain-R-Shine any better than the All purpose if everything is dry?

13) Don't I need a union below the skimmer, below the return, on the pump return in and on the filter return to pool. And back to #1 again do the unions need to follow water flow somehow?
 
A single union ball valve will suit your purpose. It combines the ball valve and union in one piece. You can see an example here. I have one between my skimmer and pump, another between the filter and return. I have a simple union (no valve) between the pump and filter.
 
Thanks guys. If I do the normal sequence with the ball valve (or use the ball valve/union) -- what is the lifespan. I am just worried about how well it holds up in the winter. I see it is serviceable -- what exactly does that mean? Does that mean if it leaks I don't have to cut it out and replace it? Also was is the difference between SxS and FIPxFIP?
 
Here are some pictures of my current set up.
IMG_0004.jpg


IMG_0005.jpg
 

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I was reading more on this site about valves being difficult to turn and handles breaking so I decided to get the Pentair Two Port Diverter Valve 263038 thinking that it was never lube that it would be better. However it is so heavy I am worried that if I mount it near the skimmer and return it would put too much weight on the pool wall and if I put it near the pump and filter it would do the same. Its almost as if I would would have to put it on the ground. Should I return it and get the Serviceable ball valve instead (just like zea3 said to do :oops: ) and just deal with the possibility of handles breaking or how do I mount this given my setup -- because for the winter I wanted to leave the valve attached and remove the rest of the plumbing inside so it would not be supported by any pipe then.
 
Anyone -- on my last question? I had another thought that maybe I could leave everything connected if I had a drain plug on the pvc pipe on both the skimmer and return sides so instead of a 90 at the bottom I would put a T and then use a 1.5" plug with an O-ring and just remove it when winterizing. I lost water through my return last winter (I think because the one side of my pool is slightly higher than the rest) and so I am concerned about the pipes freezing and breaking. Would an O-ring plug work or would I need an MPT plug?
 
Don't worry about the weight of the valve. The pool and plumbing will hold up fine with it. If you think about it, the pool wall is holding up a heavy skimmer without any support when you have a hosed setup.

either and o-ring or an MNPT plug should work. With an MNPT plug you should use a little plumbing paste or T-Tape to help seal it off. I'd probably recommend T-Tape as it's easier to remove when you take the plug out.
 
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