Am I doing this testing correctly? Help!

[Blessed- with a pool]

Hey - I just got my TF-100 today.

I am not sure when it comes to looking for a certain color.

I was doing T/A test and between 12 and 13 it changed from green to a purple color- it said when it turns red so do I keep going looking for a red or is it when I see it change.

My PH is high- 8.2

In the calcium hardness test it was the same thing. What kind of blue? I think mine was about 34. It looked like something was binding together in there and kind of blue.

I didn't check for CYA and Chlorine as I don't think that there is any and I also was questioning whether I was doing these tests correctly.

I never took any chemistry- I usually gravitated to the maths.

I want to start the conversion but I am afraid that these PH and T/A need work before I add the bleach. I am unsure of my ability to use the calculator correctly too. I posted about that on the conversion forum.

My youngest seems ultra interested in the kit and the chemistry - "Oh mom you didn't tell me that you were getting a chemistry set!!" He is 7.

What do I add to lower my Ph and do I need to re do the T/A?

Thanks

 

[giulietta1]

Hey - I just got my TF-100 today.

I am not sure when it comes to looking for a certain color.

I was doing T/A test and between 12 and 13 it changed from green to a purple color- it said when it turns red so do I keep going looking for a red or is it when I see it change.

When I do this test, I see pink/red mixed in with the green as each drop is added. Then after swirling it'll go back to green again until I get close to the reading. What you're looking for is a red/deep pink color that remains after swirling. It can look purplish along the way. Another drop or two will likely get you to red.

My PH is high- 8.2

I was going to suggest an acid demand test but I think that's not included in the TF-100. It's not absolutely necessary, but I find it handy. You'll need to enter your pH and TA in the pool calc to get the amount of acid you need; meaning you should probably re-do the TA test.

In the calcium hardness test it was the same thing. What kind of blue? I think mine was about 34. It looked like something was binding together in there and kind of blue.

I have trouble with this one too. If you have any metals in your water you will have a problem w/the CH test. It's called a "fading endpoint." If you've used copper-based algicide, that could be the cause. Try testing your source water (tap water, I assume) and see what you get on that. That should be a good estimate of your pool water hardness, unless you've added calcium to your pool. If there are metals in your source water, tho, this won't help, but I hope this gives you some ideas at least.

The CH is not really critical at this point; pH and TA are more important.

Muriatic acid is used to lower pH and TA. Try the TA test again, bearing in mind what I mentioned above. Once you're more confident in your TA reading, use that and your pH to calculate the amount of acid you need to lower those numbers (and it sounds like your TA may be on the high side).

HTH, and good luck!

 

[JasonLion]

On the TA and CH test you are looking for a color change, the particular colors don't matter. What you want to do is watch for the color to start to change, then carefully add drops one at a time till it stops changing. Don't count the final drop which didn't cause any additional change.

TA around 120 or 140 is fine. When you bring the PH down the TA will come down a little as well and should end up just fine. CH around 340 is also fine.

You need to bring the PH down. Most of the PH tests only read up to 8.2, even if it is much higher, so it is difficult to know how much acid you will need to bring it down. The best thing to use to lower PH is 31.45% muriatic acid. It is a little annoying to handle (fumes), but with some care isn't too bad. I would try 1 quart of acid, give it an hour to mix with the pump on and retest and see where you are. It may take a couple of tries to get the PH where you want it. Acid should be poured very slowly in front of a return, taking care not to spill or splash any.

 

[Blessed- with a pool]

Thanks- everyone

I did re-check T/A and it is 120. I will be getting some MA in there ASAP.

It looks really bad today. I haven't added anything for a couple of weeks so hopefully the Baquacil will be easily eliminated.

I did check my indoor water (tap) and it is completely opposite than the pool water. Low low ph. Only 1 drop for T/A. We have well water. Never thought we really had any issues with it. But now I am thinking we need to address that after we get the pool under control.


Thanks again- it is so reassuring to be able to come here and ask these questions.

 

[AnnaK]

Jason made the understatement of the season when he said muriatic acid is "a little annoying to handle" due to the fumes. The fumes will take your breath away. Literally.

Just joshin' ya some, Jason.

I tie a bandanna over my mouth and nose when I measure and pour muriatic acid. Makes me look like some sort of bank robber, especially with the cap and the dark sun glasses, as I approach the pool and tell it, "Your pH or your liner!"

BWAP, you can buy muriatic acid at hardware stores in the tile section. Our local Home Depot didn't have any but both ACE and Lowe's do.

Anna

 

[Guest]

Hey - I just got my TF-100 today.

I am not sure when it comes to looking for a certain color.

I was doing T/A test and between 12 and 13 it changed from green to a purple color- it said when it turns red so do I keep going looking for a red or is it when I see it change.



Thanks

Didn't realize until I had read other posts in this thread that you have a biguanide (Baqua) pool. The Ta test WILL go from green to purple with biguanide. This is normal. Once you have fully converted to chlorine the test will go from green to red.

Once again I stress that it is IMPORTANT for people to post all the details about their pool, including the type of santizer, filter, pool surface, etc. when they post a question because it CAN have an effect!