Mustard/Yellow algae and pool equipment

[ivyleager]

Trying to get rid of stubborn mustard algae which I've been thinking has been tree pollen and/or regular algae. I've used 25+ lg jugs of chlorine so far this season and I'm getting ready to put in some Yellow Klear tomorrow. I have extra jugs of bleach on hand.

Filter running 24/7 for 3 weeks now since opening to lovely emerald green swamp. Pool cleared to crystal clear in 12 days. Now, brushing 2-3 times/day. Consistently seeing yellow "dust" on sides and bottom.

Current readings this evening just before dark: Taylor kit.
FC 13
CC 0 (and it's been reading zero for a week, even tho the yellow Crud keeps growing)
TC 13
pH 8 (added 32 oz muriatic acid. Sure I've used a ton of bleach but this recent 2 day rise from 7.4 to 8 took me by surprise! We did get rain.)
TA 110
CH 170
CYA 30 (and I'm seriously confused by this finding. My dot test has been all over the place since opening, ranging from 30 to 70. I used a strip last night and got a very light coloration between 0-50. Went to 2 pool stores today and both of their readings were 21. I've had CYA loss before due to swamp conditions, but the bouncing around is frustrating)

My current question is about my pool cleaner - Polaris 360. It's been in the pool with the mustard algae. Do I disinfect it w/ bleach or just put it in the pool with the Yellow Klear? The 3 yr old solar cover is getting thrown out.

Thanks!

 

[JasonLion]

I definitely do not recommend using Yellow Klear, which is just bromide/bromine. It is only useful when CYA is high and you have some reason for not lowering CYA.

You need to get the PH down, preferably to around 7.4.

If you do have mustard algae, you need to run the cleaner for an hour or so at mustard algae shock levels. But otherwise you don't want it in the pool while at shock level.

Are you seeing this yellow dust appearing while FC is at 13? Mustard algae will not reappear once you brush/vacuum it up so long as FC is anywhere near shock level, and right now you are at shock level. The distinctive trait of mustard algae is that it comes back as soon as you let FC come back down to normal day to day levels, but it won't come back while you are at shock level.

 

[ivyleager]

Jason - it stays away at mustard algae levels, and returns (always, always, always) when FC goes down to maintenance levels.

Current Readings at 1pm:
FC 18
CC 0 (It's always zero)
pH 7.4

This am, I awoke to a pool with the "dust" only on the pool floor and clumped together, both shallow and deep end. It's usually like a sheet of yellow dust along the side wall, but not this am. Vacuumed to waste. FC had dropped 2ppm overnight. I still don't believe it is dead. So I am reshocking. I want it dead.

I know why I'm having such a hard time with this. We had to fire our lawn service last year because they not only left the gate open around the pool, but never blew fertilizer treatments off the deck - so we figured we got tons of feed in the water just ripe for algae blooms.

Lastly, during this whole process since opening, I'm usually backwashing in the evening hours then readjusting chlorine. While backwashing just now, I looked at the trap basket cover - covered in slime around the edges. Took it off and even gasket was loaded with green debris. Was clean when I opened. Disinfected that.

Work in process. Kids keep looking at the pool which is clear otherwise, and wanting to jump in. I told them they need KP - kid patience.

 

[JasonLion]

Alright, you need to shock at mustard algae levels for an additional 24 hours after regular shocking would otherwise be over. While shocking at that level you need to throughly brush the entire pool, including walls, floor, steps, skimmer, under ladders, everywhere. All pool tools and toys and anything else that is used in the pool needs to be wiped down with a dilute bleach solution or soaked in the pool for an hour at mustard algae shock level. Bathing suits should be run through the laundry. If you have underwater lights, they should be removed from their niche and the niche brushed out, and then lights replaced. If you have fountains, or waterfalls, or other water features they need to be run for at least an hour while at mustard algae shock level. Be very through, or you will most likely just need to do it all over again.

 

[ivyleager]

Alright, you need to shock at mustard algae levels for an additional 24 hours after regular shocking would otherwise be over. While shocking at that level you need to throughly brush the entire pool, including walls, floor, steps, skimmer, under ladders, everywhere. All pool tools and toys and anything else that is used in the pool needs to be wiped down with a dilute bleach solution or soaked in the pool for an hour at mustard algae shock level. Bathing suits should be run through the laundry. If you have underwater lights, they should be removed from their niche and the niche brushed out, and then lights replaced. If you have fountains, or waterfalls, or other water features they need to be run for at least an hour while at mustard algae shock level. Be very through, or you will most likely just need to do it all over again.

Hey, I'm a chick...I have to do what with my light? I'll kill myself for sure!

Pools been brushed 3x already today. Obsessing completely.

Pool brush, pole, leaf net all in pool, ladder not out of storage yet. I have new pool floats which haven't been in the water yet. All of last years pool toys have been thrown out (diving sticks mainly). I may just throw the Polaris in but not run it. Running it reduces flow because it's a pressure side and I need to restrict a return. Or I may just use it for target practice and break down and get the new Aquabot Supreme/Extreme.