Rusted Diving Board anchors

norbie

0
Aug 21, 2007
47
01540
Pool Size
19200
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
This was the first year I took my diving board off for the winter. When I tried to take the base of the diving board off I noticed all 5 anchors were rusted almost all the wat through. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the base or the board. My question is can I grind down the existing anchors and put new ones in or do I have to have that piece of cement cut out and repoured with new anchors in the cement? Here is a picture of the anchors.
:mrgreen:
 
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Three things I find disturbing:

1) The wrong studs were used. Can you say Stainless?
2) No bond wire!
3) Never remove the dive stand for winter except when you find this type of condition found. It stresses the hardware and the mounting points and exposes the studs to weather needlessly.

I personally would never trust new anchors without them being set in a new, thick, reinforced pour. There is a LOT of stress, quite capable of pulling out unexpectedly. I would cut them flush and paint them to match the deck color to prevent rust stains.

Many pool professionals insurance policies, mine included exclude anything and everything except removals when it comes to dive stands. Think the insurance companies know something?

Scott
 
Thats exactly what I as thinking PoolGuyNJ. The only reason I removed it was due to the anchors. Now I'm considering replacing the board and stand also.
 
How would one remove a diving board with base in cement completly, they poured around base. Angle grinder or some special industrial saw? Thanks

ps whats a bond wire, will i get shocked if cut?
 
Don't know about removal but the bond wire is to prevent you from being shocked. You won't get shocked by cutting it, but there is a possibility of getting shocked if you don't have it attached.
 
PoolGuyNJ said:
Three things I find disturbing:

1) The wrong studs were used. Can you say Stainless?

Scott

My board has steel studs also, not rusted like that (yet). I thought the same that stainless would be better for corrosion although the steel may be stronger if they are grade 8. Is stainless used often? seems like it would be standard. Steel is what SR Smith supplied with the board.

I sprayed mine with cold galv especially where they enter the cement, also coated them with never seize before the nuts were applied. I also made some special nuts from 1 1/16" stainless hex that are extra long with a blind thread so no water can touch the top of the stud, looks better than little plastic caps covering the extra threads.
 
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