Rusted Intex Frame

[kellyfair]

Just replaced my previous Intex this year, not due to rust. And I have a SWG.

But yes, I do consider these disposable. If I get 3-4 years out of each, I’m happy!

 

[jblizzle]

Billy and kid ... (That is funny)

I would be very interested in you testing the salt levels in your pools. It is very common for a non SWG pool to get up to 1000-2000ppm of salt from adding any form of chlorine. Seems that you are suggesting that going to 3000 is some cliff that makes the metal fall apart. Still well below the ocean at 35000ppm.

I suspect they have lowered the material quality in the last few years given reports I have read.

 

[kellyfair]

I agree with you, Jason. I think they would rather keep us replacing them more often!

 

[kne]

I'm on year 4 of the Intex Ultra Frame using a SWG and no rust. I wonder if environment plays a part in the rusting. I'm inland California, 40 miles away from the ocean where it never snows so no salt on the roads ever and no salt in the air.

 

[bse53]

I've had a 12x24 intex pool for about 5 years, and I used a SWG for three of those and noticed a lot more rust on the frame and corrosion on the stainless parts (pool ladder and screws holding the skimmer). I switched back to chlorine.
I think there is a reason that pools marketed as saltwater pools use resin supports as opposed to metal.
You can prolong the use of your pool by spraying with metal with a good rust inhibiting paint as soon as you notice it.

 

[mknauss]

I've had a 12x24 intex pool for about 5 years, and I used a SWG for three of those and noticed a lot more rust on the frame and corrosion on the stainless parts (pool ladder and screws holding the skimmer). I switched back to chlorine.
I think there is a reason that pools marketed as saltwater pools use resin supports as opposed to metal.
You can prolong the use of your pool by spraying with metal with a good rust inhibiting paint as soon as you notice it.

Corrosion typically occurs from pH that is not being managed. When a SWCG is used the pH rises as you are not using Trichlor that is acidic. If you run the same pool with liquid chlorine and ignore the pH it will have the same corrosion issues.

Take care.

 

[bse53]

Corrosion typically occurs from pH that is not being managed. When a SWCG is used the pH rises as you are not using Trichlor that is acidic. If you run the same pool with liquid chlorine and ignore the pH it will have the same corrosion issues.

Hmmm. It may be coincidental.

I used to keep an eye on pH, though I could never bring down total alkalinity (if I remember correctly). It seemed the SWCG kept the pool clear, but it seemed the chlorine levels were always very low and I got very sloppy about checking the water chemistry.

I got tired of the build up of salt on the plates in the SWCG. It seemed like every couple of weeks I would have to pull them out and dissolve the salt.

Is it possible the high ph was contributing to the build up of salt?

Long before SWCG was a thing, I used an in-line chlorinator that worked good with minimum fuss, and I was planning to go back to that on the next pool. I may have to take a refresher course in pool maintenance instead!

 

[mknauss]

The build up was calcium, not salt in the SWCG.

If you have a SWCG you should manage CSI. Calcite Saturation Index. Keep it between -0.3 and 0.0. You do that by primarily managing your pH and TA with a known CH. PoolMath calculates CSI from the data you input.

Take care.

 

[CR172]

We are on year 3 with ours and we will be lucky if we make it thru the season. Ours is rusted badly. When I closed it up last year it wasn't all that bad. After uncovering and opening it up earlier this year is when I noticed how bad it was. I am putting stainless worm gear clamps on all the top rails at the T-posts to try and limp it thru till winter. We plan on replacing it with a Radiant pool somewhat buried.

 

[New to Chlorine]

The build up was calcium, not salt in the SWCG.

If you have a SWCG you should manage CSI. Calcite Saturation Index. Keep it between -0.3 and 0.0. You do that by primarily managing your pH and TA with a known CH. PoolMath calculates CSI from the data you input.

Take care.

I’ve had an Oracle above ground pool for 7 years. I have been using the TFP method for the last four, after using the dreaded Bacqucil!!! The bottom of the top rail around my pool is beginning to rust and when bumped pieces of rust fall into my pool. I have kept my chemicals in balance using Pool Math and have no issues except my Ph runs high, in my opinion. It always goes to 7.8-8. I have had to add Muratic acid almost weekly to bring it down to 7.5, but by the end of the week it’s back up. Would the rusting be caused from too much acid or high Ph? I had read on this site not to worry much about it sometimes it just runs high? What do you think?

 

[jlowens76]

Had the same thing happen to my 15' INTEX AGP. Water pooling in areas where the poles meet and rub away the paint/power coating make for a rusty situation. My solution: Intex Pool Repair - Fix rusty poles and stop rust now!

Going on 2+ years since this repair and no signs of rust in those areas, also has made the pool way more stable due to the tighter tolerances where the horizontal poles meet the t joints.

Any questions let me know!