Help With Replumbing

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Big Thunder

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Apr 29, 2009
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I went ahead and decided to upgrade my valve to a MVP but I need a bit of advice on how to run the plumbing. I have a few thoughts but thought I'd get some input.

Heres my existing pad:


[attachment=0:1qenocgn]equipmentpad.jpg[/attachment:1qenocgn]

I hate how they have the pump line wrapping around the strainer and then into the valve. I'd like to avoid that this time around.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Keep in mind that there are lots of ways to do it, and your current setup isn't one of them :)

I would start by moving the pump further left in the picture, closer to where the suction pipes come out of the ground.

The new valve should allow you to run straight up from the pump outlet a little further, and then jog towards the filter from there.

After that, it is a question of where to put the flow meter and deciding if you want to push the filter a little to the right in the picture or not.
 
:-D


Yeah, it bugs me everytime I look at it. Plus whenever I need to get at the strainer basket I skin my knuckles on the pipe right near it.


Im not worried about the flowmeter as Im going to do something with it.

What about flex pvc line from the pump into the valve? The thing Im worried about is that I dont have that much room to slide the pump to the left and the filter to the right.
 
Thanks for the overhead :goodjob:

It's hard to tell from the pics if this will line up perfectly but what I would do is to get the pump as close to the union as possible (move the Liquidator hose to the other side of the union). Then, I hope you're feeling strong and have a strong friend to help you, rotate the filter 90* clockwise and push it back towards the wall of the house so that the effluent port on the pump lines up with the influent port on the multi (if you can do this it's a quick up out of the pump and 90 into the multi - put a union on that line :hammer: - preferably on the vertical pipe coming out of the pump). Also try to move the filter so that, with a male threaded street 90, you line up with the return pipe. If you can do that, point the 90 down 45* and use a 45 to go to the 90 going into the return line (you may have to raise or lower the height that the 90 goes into the return line, so have a coupling handy :) )

I don't know how the Liquidator needs to be attached, but it looks like you might be able to just switch the lines to fit the set up I've described.

One last thing - wear a long sleeved shirt and wear gloves while moving the filter - unless you like fiberglass splinters :lol:

Let me know if my proposal is feasible :cheers:
 
The pump inlet on the multiport would then be on the left side away from the pump if I turned my filter 90 degrees clockwise.



Hmmm, you have given me a few things to consider.

Can I do anything about that fiberglass? It is an old filter, I'd like to paint it but would it be helpful to brush some resin over that fiberglass?
 
Sorry about the 'brain f*rt' on where the pump and return lines enter the multi :hammer: :oops:

OK, forget moving the pump and turn the filter 90* counter clockwise and see if you will have a straight run to the return if you push the filter all the way (or most of the way) back to the wall the Liquidator is backed up to (mover the liquidator wherever else it will fit - looks like by the conduit for the pump would work). You'd want to come straight out of the multi with the return line to clear the filter/ base before putting on a 90.

I hope this makes a little more sense than what I posted yesterday :p
 
If it puts the multi too close to the wall, move the pump forward on the pad, as I said in the earlier post - it'll only cost you the price of a coupling :)

Also, it looks like you've got 1.5" plumbing. If your new multi has 2" threads, I'd just run 2" pipe and forget the reducers :idea: :cheers:
 

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The goal is to minimize the total number of fittings/turns in the pipe. There are different ways to do that. One way is to start from the suction lines and try to get as many things to be very simple as possible and take care of what ever problems are left over at the end. But there are other ways to do it that are just as good. I doubt there is a perfect layout given the constraints here. So it is a question of moving the problems around until you can save a fitting somewhere.

You can get better access to everything if you turn the layout 90 degrees, pump inlet facing front in the top picture, but that packs things in very tightly across the narrow dimension of the pad.
 
Yeah, lots of constraints with this small pad and where it is located. I was starting last night based upon Wastes recommendations and let me tell you, putting my shoulder into that filter now that waters been pumped through? I'm not a small man but HOLY HEAVY SAND BATMAN! Then the wifey comes out, sees the valve and where its at: "Thats a little tight there isn't it?" "Well, yeah but you wont be at it all the time" "I dont like the tight squeeze and when you're gone I have to deal with it" Oh brother.....
 
Okay. finished, well except for hooking up the Liquidator. Had to compromise a bit due to space constraints.

[attachment=1:eek:isud4um]newequip1.jpg[/attachment:eek:isud4um]


[attachment=0:eek:isud4um]newequip2.jpg[/attachment:eek:isud4um]




All 2" line above ground now.


Glad thats done. Whew. Thanks for everyones advice and help!
 

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Thanks guys. Yeah took my time and even used purple primer. Couldn't find any clear. I didn't have room for a full union on the valve to pump inlet but I did use two threaded bushings so if I ever have to replace the pump I won't booger up a good Jandy valve.

I need to do something about the flaky fiberglass though. Even with gloves and long sleeves, I ended up itchy.
 
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