The Aquarite system stopped generating salt out of the blue a couple of weeks ago, and I've been keeping the pool blue with chlorine. I need to get this thing fixed, and I'd like someone to check my homework on whether or not I've honed in on the fix.
Here's the description of the problem from an earlier post -
"Monday morning, I woke up and the pool was starting to turn green. I've got a Hayward H-40 generator. I opened the box, and it was still showing 2600 ( salt content) in the display screen, but none of the other indicator lights were on. I turned off the pump, and turned it back on. The no flow light blinked like it usually does when the pump first starts up. It stayed blinking for much longer then normal, and the generating light did not come on. The no flow light went off after about 20 seconds. I turned it back off and on again. This time I flipped the switch to super chlorinate while the no flow light was still blinking. The generate light came on, but turned off after less then 10 seconds. It's almost like the system isn't detecting water flow, and so it isn't generating chlorine. The fuse looks fine. I rinsed off the cell and it looks good. It shouldn't be a wiring sequence issue - nothing has changed, and the system has been working fine for 6 months. When I cycle through the diagnostics, the indicator lights don't come on. "
I checked the flow switch - all parts appear to be intact, and the contact surface is clean. I did the phone line test - plug in a phone line into the main box, connect the inner two wires together to bypass the switch. Nothing changed - the no flow light kept blinking (even though flow is strong), and then the generating light came on for about five seconds. It then turned off, and no lights were illuminated. Not a single one. I think I may just need to replace the board. Any thoughts? Would it be worth taking the board out and checking/replacing the current limiter? If the system worked fine for 5 years, shouldn't I be able to wire a new panel exactly how the old one is wired? How do I make sure that I'm buying the right board off of ebay or amazon?
I appreciate any advice.
Here's the description of the problem from an earlier post -
"Monday morning, I woke up and the pool was starting to turn green. I've got a Hayward H-40 generator. I opened the box, and it was still showing 2600 ( salt content) in the display screen, but none of the other indicator lights were on. I turned off the pump, and turned it back on. The no flow light blinked like it usually does when the pump first starts up. It stayed blinking for much longer then normal, and the generating light did not come on. The no flow light went off after about 20 seconds. I turned it back off and on again. This time I flipped the switch to super chlorinate while the no flow light was still blinking. The generate light came on, but turned off after less then 10 seconds. It's almost like the system isn't detecting water flow, and so it isn't generating chlorine. The fuse looks fine. I rinsed off the cell and it looks good. It shouldn't be a wiring sequence issue - nothing has changed, and the system has been working fine for 6 months. When I cycle through the diagnostics, the indicator lights don't come on. "
I checked the flow switch - all parts appear to be intact, and the contact surface is clean. I did the phone line test - plug in a phone line into the main box, connect the inner two wires together to bypass the switch. Nothing changed - the no flow light kept blinking (even though flow is strong), and then the generating light came on for about five seconds. It then turned off, and no lights were illuminated. Not a single one. I think I may just need to replace the board. Any thoughts? Would it be worth taking the board out and checking/replacing the current limiter? If the system worked fine for 5 years, shouldn't I be able to wire a new panel exactly how the old one is wired? How do I make sure that I'm buying the right board off of ebay or amazon?
I appreciate any advice.
