water looks like cloudy when moving

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frenchie

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Jan 2, 2011
51
Hi there, I made a shocking to my pool opening last sunday. My water was green, then add opening kit, but now I have water which I can see a white color getting in the pool from the filter. if I stop filter / pump, then my water become clear, and as soon as I start the pump, again my water get white ( just like stomach powder ENO) if you know what I mean.
I made several bach wash, so I really think the problem isn't with the filter but because of water itself.
Any one faced that problem ???

thank you
 
Al right, here's the result of the test I made with test strip:

free chlorine: 1 (ok)
total bromine: 5 (ideal)
PH : 6.2 (very low)
total alkalinity: 0 (very low)

that's what I read on my strip... hope this can explain !

thank you !
 
Those numbers are totally out of line and most likely incorrect - so it is going to be hard to give good advice. You will need to get a real test kit before you can really solve these issues. Where are you located?

Start with Pool School and read through all the articles. That's definitely the place to start.

What kind of surface is your pool (plaster, vinyl, etc) - if your PH and TA are really that low it's not good for any plaster surface.
 
Wow ! you are scaring me !!! Well, I am from Quebec, Canada I have a 12' round above ground pool install inground. The brand name of test strip I have is "spring field" so you say these are crappy ?? You know, I had my pool last summer, and I never worry at all about care for my water, I used chlorine pucks, 1 in skimmer, and 1 in floting chlorine "bowl" (don't know exact word for that device, I am french Canadian !!! )
and use at the beginning, 1/2 bottle of crystaline, and my water have been nice all summer long. So I didn't expect problem to open the pool this spring. Now regarding your 2nd question about plaster type, well all I can say is I have a standard liner (vinyl ??? )
For your information in may in eastern Canada, we have cold weather (50's), so the heat won't affect anything I guess !

I go shopping tomorrow, so I can buy stuffs you could suggest.

thanks

Richard
 
Test strips are not especially reliable. Perhaps you can take a water sample to a pool store and get them to test your water for you?

Your numbers from the strips are drastically bad, and if those results are correct you need to do a whole bunch of stuff. I wouldn't start on all that till you get some confirmation.
 
I am back from shopping, and here's the water test result I got :

PH: 6.5 (normal 7.2 - 7.8)
T.A: 20mg/li. (normal 80-120)
D.C: 70 mg/li. (normal 200-300)
CYA: 40 mg/li. (normal 30-60

They suggested to buy calcium plus, alcanidity control powder, and ph plus. and to pour in water pool one product at a time. That's what I started to do. I already added 2.4 KG of calcium plus powder, in 3 hours I will add same amount of alcanidity powder, and finally 1#2 cup of PH plus powder.

How does it sound ???

thank you
 
Frenchie, Do us a favor and put your info in your signature. It helps us know how to advise you and it's hard remembering everybody's info. Also put your location in there too.

The first thing you need to do is bring the pH up.
Once you've done that you need to tell us what your FC and CC are. But with a CYA of 40 you should have a FC between 3 & 5.
Your TA is low and should be about 70 or so.
If D.C. is Calcium hardness, then unless you have a vinyl pool, you should add some calcium.
 
Here we go ! I made my signature, hope this will help you out! I tried to upload a picture for my avatar, bur didn't worked, too large.
Anyway, back to my problem, yes D.C stand for calcium hardness. I added calcium already, along with alcanidity controle powder. I still need to add PH + later tonight, and my action will be done. ( as per directions I got from the kid who made my water test.)

thanks again to all !
 

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Sounds like you are getting the PH and TA under control - nice work.

The next step will be to look at your chlorine levels. Sounds like you are using Trichlor Pucks for chlorine. These are acidic (make your PH and TA lower - like you had) and add CYA over time. Since you used them all last year and your CYA is only 40 you can probably continue to use them - but you want to watch the CYA, PH and TA over time.

You should invest in a good test kit so you can test your own water. The Taylor K 2006 should be available in Canada and it has the FAS-DPD chlorine test.

As to your original question about the milky water - once the water is balanced we'll know more if it's a water issue or an equipment issue.
 
Thanks for the cheering comments ! Well last night I addes the 1/2 cup of PH+ and this morning, I checked water with my test strip (I know you guys don't trust those strips) just to see if I'd get different reading than prior to my corrective actions., and, TA & PH are now in "normal" range on strip. I think I will follow your suggestion to buy a real test kit.

But still have my milky water. I think I will take pictures to show you the difference of "dead water" (when I shut down the pump) versus when pump is on.

thanks again to all
 
Your cloudy water is probably dead algae that needs to be filtered out. If you have a sand filter it can take a while for everything to get caught in the filter. One thing you can try is adding a couple of cups of DE to your filter, and keep the filter running 24/7 until the pool clears.
 
Here's pic of my pool last fall, and pic as explain, when pump is on and when pump is off. You can see the white stripe made my return to pool water. Note on both pictures you'll see some white bubbles, this is probably after I added clarifier this morning, caus these bubbles were not present before.

Hope this help.

thanks
 

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It looks like a great deal of air is getting into the plumbing and causing lots of bubbles in the return jet, but I can't really be sure from the photo. Is that what is happening, or are there just a few bubbles on the surface and the white is something other than bubbles?
 
The right part of picture is white stuff from the claryfier I put. What is a mystery to me, is the left side path of white bubble underneath water (from return)

Air in plumbing you say ????? just don't know !
will wait a few more days and see what happen !

thanks again
 
I think I may have a clue for my problem with water... I forgot to mentioned that each time I turn off my pump, when I turn turn it on again, my pump "bowl" are half empty ! This may explain the air (oxygene in water), causing that while color ???
if it turn out to be the case, what kind of test should I do ?

thanks again
 
You must have an air leak on the suction side of the plumbing. The most obvious places to look at the seal around the skimmer basket lid, which should be clean and free of nicks or scratches, and the skimmer water level, which needs to be high enough to prevent a vortex from forming that can draw air down into the pump.

If those are the issues, look closely at the suction hose and the plumbing joints on the suction side of the pump. One way to check for leaks is to run a garden hose over each connection and watch to see if the number or size of the bubbles in the pump strainer basket goes down.
 
Thank you Jason for the explanation. I will run those test for leaks with garden hose. I noticed tonight when I turn off the pump, there's a noise coming out of the filter area, like air leaking. also noticed the second after the pump stop, a few drops of water are leaking from the pump inlet area (perhaps my quick connection) will have to carefully inspectto locate that one, but it only last one second. Other that that, I don't see any leaks at all.

if mother nature can be on my side, we have 40 degres windy and rain all the time.

thanky again
 

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