O.K, so I thought that I wasted my money with this ozonator that the pool store convinced me to buy, but I'm starting to see the benefits from having this. I have been testing my water up to 3 times a day just to get an idea of chlorine demand, and see how stable my PH is etc..., a couple of times I have noticed my FC less than 1ppm, and my CC greater than 1PPM, I then turn on the ozonator for about 3hrs, and re-tested, both times the result was FC 2ppm, and CC 0ppm, so it seems it is helping free up my chlorine and allow me to limit my chlorine use.
O.K my ozonator is making a difference in my AGP
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It's extremely rare to have an outdoor residential (low bather-load) pool exposed to sunlight to register high CC levels unless the FC/CYA ratio is too low so that there is an impending algae bloom creating CC and creating a higher than normal chlorine demand. If one has temporary high bather load, then the CC might rise a bit (most noticeable in a smaller pool where it's easier to get to higher bather load), but it will usually drop by the next day.
From your numbers, it sounds like you are using a DPD chlorine test. That isn't going to be particularly accurate for distinguishing FC vs. CC (which you calculate from TC-FC). If you really want to know the true CC level, I suggest you get a FAS-DPD chlorine test where you can even test with a resolution/accuracy of 0.2 ppm if you use a 25 ml sample. Most outdoor residential pools exposed to sunlight show <= 0.2 ppm most of the time except shortly after periods of higher bather load in which case they may be <= 0.4 ppm.
From your numbers, it sounds like you are using a DPD chlorine test. That isn't going to be particularly accurate for distinguishing FC vs. CC (which you calculate from TC-FC). If you really want to know the true CC level, I suggest you get a FAS-DPD chlorine test where you can even test with a resolution/accuracy of 0.2 ppm if you use a 25 ml sample. Most outdoor residential pools exposed to sunlight show <= 0.2 ppm most of the time except shortly after periods of higher bather load in which case they may be <= 0.4 ppm.
The ozonator manual is saying that I can reduce my FC chlorine level to between .5ppm and 1ppm, I have been trying to keep it at around 2ppm.
I would LOVE a FAS-DPD Test kit, I'm using the DPD (K-2005C), unfortunately, I can't find the K-2006C, or the TFT100 up here in Canada, or I'd buy one. These tests were done in the evening, (no sun on pool at that time of day), So if I'm fighting an impending algae bloom, should I do a over night free chlorine test?, it has been holding chlorine overnight with no loss (again with the accuracy of the k-2005C). Another note, there hasn't been any bather load (other than bugs Ha! Ha!), since the water temp is only 55 degrees, could this mean that I am fighting algae? here is my last test results:
FC 2ppm
CC 0ppm
TC 2ppm
PH 7.4
TA 110
CH 200
CYA (should be around 20, I haven't checked yet since I added stabilizer 4 days ago)
I would LOVE a FAS-DPD Test kit, I'm using the DPD (K-2005C), unfortunately, I can't find the K-2006C, or the TFT100 up here in Canada, or I'd buy one. These tests were done in the evening, (no sun on pool at that time of day), So if I'm fighting an impending algae bloom, should I do a over night free chlorine test?, it has been holding chlorine overnight with no loss (again with the accuracy of the k-2005C). Another note, there hasn't been any bather load (other than bugs Ha! Ha!), since the water temp is only 55 degrees, could this mean that I am fighting algae? here is my last test results:
FC 2ppm
CC 0ppm
TC 2ppm
PH 7.4
TA 110
CH 200
CYA (should be around 20, I haven't checked yet since I added stabilizer 4 days ago)
Piscines Apollo Pools has the K-2006 in Canada.
With your low CYA level, if you get algae it will be completely obvious quite soon. It won't hurt to do an overnight FC loss test just to be sure there isn't something else in the water getting oxidized.
With your low CYA level, if you get algae it will be completely obvious quite soon. It won't hurt to do an overnight FC loss test just to be sure there isn't something else in the water getting oxidized.