Check-valve between heater and SWG

[ktdave]

I my Intellichlor manual, it recommends having a check valve between the input side of the IntelliChlor cell and the heater output pipe to prevent high concentrations of chlorine entering the heater when the pump shuts off. There is a similar recommendation in my MasterTemp heater manual. My PB did not install a check valve. Is this something I should consider doing, or is it not that necessary?

TIA

 

[JasonLion]

It somewhat depends on how far apart they are and how many turns there are in the pipe (and in which direction). It they are very close together it is probably worth it.

 

[stevenbrla]

I don't know the right answer...

but I noticed that my pb initially didn't have one installed (for over a month), but the day before the pentair factory rep was to show up, he installed one. Not sure exactly what that meant.

i would guess there's only about 12" of pipe between my heater and swcg.

what I really want to do is plumb a bypass around my swcg... or even one around my heater... maybe one of those "when I have nothing better to do projects".... that never happens...)

 

[wardsntx]

Dave, let me know what you decide to do with this. I know our setup is probably identical at the pad. Let me know if you go after Adam to do this...

FYI....Adam's response about the gas regulator at the heater when they install the new meter:

"Let the gas company know that you do not need a regulator only a larger meter. Many times they will try and push you towards a high pressure system that would require a regulator but your system does not need one. The gas line is 1.25” in diameter and is under 40’. Based on that information the Pentair heater will perform per manufacturers specs with a low pressure system.

The reason Centerpoint pushes the high pressure system is because many builders do not install the proper line size for a certain distance and a high pressure system is forgiving for that. "

 

[mas985]

The high concentration of chlorine is only very close to the SWG plates <<1". Any distance away and it drops to fairly low levels because of dilution.

If you work out the volume in the pipe and the production rate of the cell, you can convince yourself that it really isn't that high when diluted.

I did the math for mine and the production rate for my cell is 1.45 lbs/24 hours . The water in the pipe flows at 88 GPM, so if you do the math, the concentration of the chlorine cannot increase by more than 1.4 ppm from input to output. So you can see that once the chlorine is mixed with the water on either side of the pipe it will be fairly diluted and should be not much worse than the pool water itself.

 

[ktdave]

Thanks for the replies guys. My setup has 3-90's and about 30" total of pipe between heater and SWG. Sound's like I should not have a problem.

what I really want to do is plumb a bypass around my swcg... or even one around my heater... maybe one of those "when I have nothing better to do projects".... that never happens...)

This is something that has crossed my mind as well Steve. Seems like bypassing the heater when adding chemicals , especially shocking, would be the way to go.