Septic Question

Jun 4, 2010
114
Since there are quite a few science minded posters on here, I thought it might be worth a shot to ask about my septic leach field problem. I have a 900 gallon septic tank with 330' of field lines that snake out from the tank. It travels 90' south, then crosses over and travels 90' north, crosses over and travels 90' south, crosses over one last time and travel 60' north. There is lots of sludge on top of the third 90' section and sometimes a little bit at the end of the second 90' section. It appears the waste is not making it to the 60' section at the end, probably due to a blockage or a collapsed line (no trees anywhere close). To dig will cost lots of $$$, but it may come to that.

Before we dig, I would like to explore chemical possibilities. I have looked online and found products like Septic Seep which uses Calcium Polysulfide to open up the soil to increase permeability and has an additive to dissolve grease. This product is flushed into the system. Also, there are oxygen based products like Septic Scrub which are placed into the junction box and flow into the leach field. The active ingredient in these products is the same as oxy-clean, which would be the least expensive alternative, my septic system diagram I got from the county show a junction box. I'm thinking there may be one an each of those 90 degree turns. Does anyone here know anything about this subject? It would be great is these products would work, but I don't want to just throw my money away. I guess I'm hoping there is a BBB septic solution. Thanks!
 
If you are getting solids in the lines, you are not pumping the tank often enough or you have issues with excessive flow into the tank keeping the solids in suspension.
 
The tank hasn't been pumped in over 10 years, so obviously that needs to be done to keep solids out of the lines. I'm thinking (hoping) that solids haven't gotten into the lines since the waste is making it through the first two 90' sections into the third. I wanted to gather as much info as I could before I call someone out to pump the tank.
 
Once you have cleaned out your tank you could employ a drain unblocking company, ideally with CCTV, to diagnose and hopefully unblock your lines with high pressure water. Then stick to a proper routine of tank maintenance.
 
bk406 said:
rghilliard said:
The tank hasn't been pumped in over 10 years, .

Thats the biggest issue right there. A tank should be pumped every 2-3 years.

I am in no way saying to not pump out your tank, BUT I built my house in 1992 and I have NEVER pumped my tank and (knock on wood) I have never had a problem. So I would not just jump in and say pump your tank and all is well, you may have another problem.
 
Poolidiot said:
bk406 said:
rghilliard said:
The tank hasn't been pumped in over 10 years, .

Thats the biggest issue right there. A tank should be pumped every 2-3 years.

I am in no way saying to not pump out your tank, BUT I built my house in 1992 and I have NEVER pumped my tank and (knock on wood) I have never had a problem. So I would not just jump in and say pump your tank and all is well, you may have another problem.

You may just be lucky that you do not have folks flushing non-biodegradable "stuff" down the toilet/drain. My inlaws get by just fine like that too. We just had our 1500 Gal tank pumped 3wks ago after 3.5 years...the inlet was maybe 3" from being plugged. Unfortunately a cleanout is inevitable...I can live with spending $300 every 3 years for some piece of mind. The new system cost us just over $14K 3.5 years ago and is the main reason we went AGP vs IG :rant:

Darn septic hole!!!
 
dmanb2b said:
You may just be lucky that you do not have folks flushing non-biodegradable "stuff" down the toilet/drain. My inlaws get by just fine like that too. We just had our 1500 Gal tank pumped 3wks ago after 3.5 years...the inlet was maybe 3" from being plugged. Unfortunately a cleanout is inevitable...I can live with spending $300 every 3 years for some piece of mind. The new system cost us just over $14K 3.5 years ago and is the main reason we went AGP vs IG :rant:

Darn septic hole!!!

dman I totally agree with you, was just telling the OP to make sure what the problem is before doing something just because you THINK that is what the problem is
 

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It only cost $300 or so to pump a tank. Trying to determine if the laterals are crushed, plugged, etc will probably cost more. The first thing to do, and the cheapest, is to pump out the tank. My guess is that fixes the problem. If t hasnt been pumped in 10 years, i'll lay odds thats's the problem.
 
Poolidiot said:
dman I totally agree with you, was just telling the OP to make sure what the problem is before doing something just because you THINK that is what the problem is

Yeah, no worries...just hit a sore spot with something I've had to deal with. If it's been 10 years, I'd pump the tank. If that's not the problem, unless the fields are made out of orangeburg pipe, they can snake them with a root cutter for another $300 or so, if still no luck then video inspection for another $300...it's no wonder the local septic guy is riding around in a $100K bmw with his "Dooty 1" vanity plate.
 
The tank should have a baffle to keep solids out and pumping it makes sense since you are going to have to dig it up anyway to figure out what is going on. I have never seen one installed with a way to get to the drain field without going through the tank. How far is the nearest tree and what kind of tree? Trees like doody and will send out runners a long way to get some of the "good stuff". :-D
 
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