Transitioning out of shocking the pool...

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C

Clueless

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Apr 14, 2011
65
The Bluegrass State
My chlorine levels are holding with only maybe a point drop overnight, so I've decided to jump into the next phase. No worries, I'm keeping shock levels until the drop is zero but in the meantime, I've turned on my Autopilot and.... low flow.

Not a problem, my new $22 channel lock pliers make quick work of a fitting and the little metal screen is now clear. Turn it back on and.... low flow. I take off the other side where the cell is and it looks good to me so I put it back in. Turn Autopilot on and... low flow.

I now suspect the sensor has gone south on me so I check to make sure the connections are tight and all is well in the plumbing end. I follow the wire to the Auto- wait a minute... there's the problem. An animal has chewed all the way through the sensor wire!

After a quick fix, I'm back on the road and no more low flow issues but now Im getting "low amps - cell?" on the screen. My salt is at 3200 PPM on the screen and about 3000 on my test strips. It shows the purifier is ON but the red light is flashing at me. What's the standard op procedure here?

And since I'm now on the SWG, I am continuing to monitor the FC overnight and will continue to supplement with bleach until I'M sure it's functioning correctly, so I've started raising my CYA to what should be about 38-40 tomorrow. Here's my full test results before adding another large jug of bleach and the 2.5-ish pounds of stabilizer.

Ph - 7.5
FC - 14.5 (should be around 20 by now)
Ta - 70
Ch - 160
CYA - 20? I hate this test as it's so subjective. Usually its in the 28-30 range when I can't see the dot but today it was more like 20... and then I poured to 28 and though "meh, that could be considered "not seeing the dot" and shrugged.

So with all that info folks, what say you?

Clueless
 
When you are done shocking, you should raise CYA up to around 70-80. There will always be some uncertainty in the reading.

You should do a test autopilot on the menu and tell us the volts and amps readings.
 
Those numbers are suggestive of the cell wearing out. Another check to do to see if the cell is wearing out is to take the cell out and look at the corners of the plates. When the cell is wearing out some of the plates will have corners that look worn away.
 
Thanks again, Jason.

I'll pull the cell again tomorrow if the rain lets up and try to take a pic or two. In the meantime, I have two questions.

1. Is the cell still working just at a diminished capacity?

2. A quick search for SC-48 all show as unavailable. I'm guessing they're discontinued? If so, what is the suggested replacement? And while Im at it, where is the best place to buy and are there other options you'd recommend instead of the one I've got currently?
 
We have heard some complaints about the generic replacement cells, though it is way too soon to tell if the reported problems are going to be common or not. Remember that using a generic cell voids your warranty (if you still have one).
 
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