Retrofitting existing plumbing.

Jan 3, 2010
102
Claremont california
Hello,

Going to install a new Pentair 8 speed pump, and an aqua-rite 40k salt chlorinator. I am newbie and this is my first major work in my pool. Take in mine that I do not have any experience and do not know exactly required lengths or runs needed for heathers and chlorinator. Because of the original plumbing being a little unsafe, I am planning to improve it so that my new equipment can work more efficiently.
Items that cannot be change:
1. All the equipment in confined inside cover storage shed.
2. 2” copper pipes location coming up through cement slab.
3. Heater location.
Good Items:
1. 220 Electric Voltage
2. Willing to work very hard to do the installation the best possible way available.

28k inground pool/spa/2 skimmers/pool and spa drains/2 pool water outs/2 spa water outs

I welcome any input.
George
 
First question?
Did you already buy your equipment?
If not you may want to look at buying a Easytouch 4 with an IC-40 SWG. You can get the combo for about $1300, and it includes the electric valves for the pool and spa suction/return as well. Later you can add a wireless unit and have full control of your whole system.
Wow, copper plumbing.
Be cautious on your velocities with that big pump. Stay under 5feet per second, or you can start stripping copper off of it.
 
Plumbing is something of an art form. The challenge is to find a way to layout the equipment so there are simple relatively straight plumbing runs and you can still reach everything you might want to access/control.

A good place to start is with a standard diagram for pool/spa plumbing, like one of these. Your exact setup will probably be a little different from any of those, but pick one that is more or less correct and think about how you are going to fit everything in, and compare that to what you have now.
 
Just-a-PB said:
First question?
Did you already buy your equipment?
If not you may want to look at buying a Easytouch 4 with an IC-40 SWG. You can get the combo for about $1300, and it includes the electric valves for the pool and spa suction/return as well. Later you can add a wireless unit and have full control of your whole system.
Wow, copper plumbing.
Be cautious on your velocities with that big pump. Stay under 5feet per second, or you can start stripping copper off of it.


Yes! I got the pump and the chlorinator.
 
JasonLion said:
Plumbing is something of an art form. The challenge is to find a way to layout the equipment so there are simple relatively straight plumbing runs and you can still reach everything you might want to access/control.

A good place to start is with a standard diagram for pool/spa plumbing, like one of these. Your exact setup will probably be a little different from any of those, but pick one that is more or less correct and think about how you are going to fit everything in, and compare that to what you have now.

Thanks for the diagram links! Firs, I am going to stick with the diagram 1 in the link. Second, Should I remove all the plastic pipes including the copper return from the heater?

Please advice,
George
 
There should only be two pipes directly connected to the heater, water in and water out. The best thing to do is to remove them at the outside of the heater and replace with new CPVC. The exact procedure depends on how the current connections were made.
 
JasonLion said:
There should only be two pipes directly connected to the heater, water in and water out. The best thing to do is to remove them at the outside of the heater and replace with new CPVC. The exact procedure depends on how the current connections were made.

Actually, I wanted to replace the Heater Connectors - Heat Sinks with cpvc. My question is this, my Raypak b-265c-en heater has cast iron INLET/OUTLET HEADER - ASME. If not possible to connect cpvc to the header, can I use the current copper heat sink and then adapt to cpvc. Then just turn the orientation going downward?

Please advice,
George
 
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