New Pool Owner Getting Started

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S

snipes

0
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 25, 2011
20
Fairfax, CA
First off, thanks to all those that put together this forum and the "Pool School" info. Great stuff.

I've never owned a pool or spa before, but just bought a house that came with one. I had a pool inspector look at it, and she gave me a brief tutorial on how everything works. She also confirmed that due to a leak in the main drain, which has been plugged, the only way for water to get to the filter is through the (single) skimmer. She said that wasn't necessarily a problem, just that I needed to keep a close eye on water level, which I'm perfectly fine with.

Now to the water. It's green. Not so green I can't see the bottom, but definitely a nice shade. The first thing I did when I found this site (after reading the "Pool School") was to order a TF-100 XL, which arrives tomorrow. The previous homeowners left behind a bunch of chemicals, including chlorine pucks, a few bags of shock, some Swimtrine algaecide, algae "preventer", and muriatic acid. I'm not planning on using anything until I get the test kit and can test the water, particularly the CYA level.

So now to my questions: Once I get the water tested, and depending on my CYA level, should I bother with any of the chemicals mentioned above? Should I just proceed with bleach to eliminate the algae? And in the meantime, is there anything else I can or should do, such as vacuum the pool or clean the filter?

Last question concerning the filter. I got an owners manual and think I understand the procedure to clean the media, but I'm a little worried about draining the tank. The drain plug isn't plumbed anywhere, so water is just going to run all over the place. How much is in there? It looks like I could use my vacuum hose to redirect it to a "better" part of my backyard. Is that fine to do?

Thanks!

Rich
 
First off, I'd physically remove any debris from the pool since that's something you'd do regardless of the test measurements. If there are leaves or other organic matter in the pool, then physical removal is a lot easier than using tons of chlorine and lots of filtration/backwashing/cleaning to get rid of it.

Then, I'd test the CYA level since if it's very high you will want to do a partial drain/refill to lower it and there's not much sense starting a shock process for a pool that's already about as bad as its going to get and then dilute the water which will get rid of chlorine as well as the CYA. So test the CYA to see if a partial drain/refill is necessary.

If the CYA isn't too high (< 80 ppm though 50 ppm would probably be a reasonable target depending on where you live) or after you lower it from dilution, then shock with high levels of chlorine using chlroinating liquid or bleach (or if the Calcium Hardness is low and you need to raise it, you can use Cal-Hypo for both chlorine and to raise CH).
 
Welcome to TFP!!

It's fine to use the vacuum hose to take the water to a better location. I'd use an adapter to connect the hose to the filter (Hayward SPX1091Z7 works well for this).

Congrats on the kit :goodjob: Post your test results and we'll be able to offer specific advice on what to do to clear up the pool :cool:
 
while you wait for your kit, to stay on top of greeny growing things... dump a jug or two of Clorox in there each evening, until everything is running more smoothly and you can shock. Only do this if you have a way to circulate the water.
 
Alright then. This should be fun. I skimmed all the physical debris I could from the pool. Already looks a heck of a lot better, even if it's still green. Now for the test results:

FC = 0
CC = 0
TC = 0
pH = 8.2
T/A = 110
CH = 220
CYA = 0
Temp = 64

So... That CYA of zero can't be a good thing right? We probably get a good 4-5 hours of full sun on the pool right now. Should I raise that first before bothering to add any chlorine? And if so, what level should I shoot for, 30? I've got lots of muriatic acid left by the previous owners that I can use to lower that pH. Should I go ahead and do that now too? And how about the other numbers, anything to worry about?

Thanks!
 
Forgot to add... I discovered a few pretty interesting little creatures while skimming the pool. They are snake/worm looking things, but with four legs, a few inches long and perhaps 1/2 an inch across. I'll post a photo shortly. Not sure I want to show them to my wife or else she may never get in the pool again, regardless of how clear the water becomes :)
 
I guess they're salamanders of some kind. Found three of them...

One more question. I feel like I should give the walls and bottom a good brushing. It seems to remove the algae to the water itself. Should I do this now, after I add chlorine, or some other time?
 

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Lower the PH to around 7.2 to 7.4 and remove any debris that you can with a leaf rake. Then start shocking and adding CYA at the same time, targeting a CYA level of 30 to begin with.

Brushing now won't hurt, but it won't help a whole lot until there is chlorine in the water. The important time to brush is while the FC level is high.
 
I added MA yesterday and got pH down to 7.5 I added a bit more to get to 7.4 and then started adding CYA and chlorine. I think I overshot on both, because last night my CYA was at 40 and my FC was at 22. Perhaps I overestimated the number of gallons of water I have. In any case, I gave the pool a thorough brushing and went to bed. This morning the CYA is holding steady at 40, and the FC is down to 16. I guess that's shock level for CYA=40, so I'll leave it for now and check again in an hour or two.

Meanwhile, my pH is back up to 8.2? Is that due to the CYA or chlorine I added?

Also, I've had the filter running non-stop, which I'll maintain.
 

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The PH test can read falsely high when the FC level is high. There should be a moment at some point today when FC is below 10 when you can measure the PH and get a more significant PH reading, or you can just wait until you are done shocking to worry about PH.
 
So after several more FC measurements, I think my first measurement of 16 this morning was in error. It was early, and I hadn't had any coffee yet, so perhaps I wasn't careful enough with the measurement. In each test since, my FC is holding steady at 20. It doesn't seem to have changed at all, and the water isn't really changing either. I gave the pool another good brushing. Is something preventing the chlorine from attacking the algae? I guess after reading the pool school articles, I expected things to be going quicker than this. In fact, I assumed I'd be way down on chlorine this morning and be adding more frequently today. I haven't added any since last night.
 
I guess I'll bide my time until the FC finally drops below 10 as JasonLion suggests, then measure pH again to be sure where I'm at. Perhaps it's higher than ideal and rendering the chlorine less effective.
 
Your CYA may also be higher than you think, unless you bought the liquid stuff.

Also remember that the only time the water at the bottom gets circulated is when you brush it, skimmer and returns aren't usually at much different elevation. If your returns are moveable, aim them at the floor.
 
Guess I just needed to be patient. After another careful measurement I'm down to FC = 13. I'm going to bring it back up to shock level and brush again.

My skimmer and returns ARE at the same elevation, and I'm afraid mine aren't moveable. I'll keep brushing frequently.
 
So while inspecting my returns I noticed that they were a LOT less forceful than I remember them being. The pressure gauge on my filter was up to 24 from 19 where it was when I first checked it. Before doing anything else I decided that I just had to get that thing cleaned. As far as I know the previous owners NEVER cleaned it, and I'm going to have to do it sooner or later.

I feel like I'm doing something wrong. I shut the filter off, closed off the valve next to the pump, released pressure via the valve on the top, then started draining. The water just kept coming, and coming, and coming. Maybe I'm misjudging it, but that thing just doesn't look that big. I'm creating a small lake in my backyard. I also started hearing a "hiss" again from the pressure relief valve as it drained. Anything I'm missing? Do I just need to give it enough time to fully drain? Am I draining my pool unknowingly?

I'm on hold for now. Guess I'll have to start the shocking process over again.
 
snipes said:
So while inspecting my returns I noticed that they were a LOT less forceful than I remember them being.
So probably time for a backwash
The pressure gauge on my filter was up to 24 from 19 where it was when I first checked it.
So probably time for a backwash
Before doing anything else I decided that I just had to get that thing cleaned.
Correct, by "backwashing" alone should be ok
As far as I know the previous owners NEVER cleaned it,
He most likely did clean it, but the algae etc now has it dirty again and I'm going to have to do it sooner or later.
You'll backwash somewhat frequently till you get it balanced & then maybe another time or 2, then it'll probably become far less frequent. You have to watch that pressure. Once you backwash, it is somewhat clean and starts at whatever, in your case maybe 19 as you wrote (but lets see what it STARTS at after you backwash) then when it gets about 9psi higher means time to backwash

I feel like I'm doing something wrong. I shut the filter off, closed off the valve next to the pump, released pressure via the valve on the top, then started draining. The water just kept coming, and coming, and coming. Maybe I'm misjudging it, but that thing just doesn't look that big. I'm creating a small lake in my backyard. I also started hearing a "hiss" again from the pressure relief valve as it drained. Anything I'm missing? Do I just need to give it enough time to fully drain? Am I draining my pool unknowingly?
It sounds like you are doing it wrong. We need to know what kind of filter you have BTW. To backwash you: Power Off the pump so that you can turn the Multiport Valve (MPV) to the Backwash position, then Power On & it starts to backwash (out into the grass via a pipe/ maybe w a flexible tube on that pipe etc). Once done backwashing, maybe 2 minutes(?) (read up here on TFP re backwashing), once the water is clear then maybe 10 seconds more; then power Off so you can move the MPV to Filter again, Then Power On to start filtering. Never turn your MPV while the power is On
That is backwwashing.
You can indeed "clean" the filter, but so that you can keep shocking, maybe try "backwashing" for now, see if you feel more normal return water. It's fine to "clean" the filter too, but even if you do, you'll likely be "backwashing" a bunch till you get it balanced
There are several threads on "cleaning" filters

I'm on hold for now. Guess I'll have to start the shocking process over again.
Maybe not, if you can apply what I wrote. Keep that FC up at shock level & the filter pressure in range (backwash as needed). We can probably assume your pH went to the proper range when you added the acid, but if FC is below 10 then do a pH test, but FC/shocking is more important now
Jason & the others will chime in but its getting late for many.

You'll loose water backwashing so watch the water level as you said

What can you rig to get some flow toward the bottom? A sump pump w a hose shooting to the bottom ? Don't scratch the plaster. Something plastic/pool freindly/non-metal in front of a return to direct the water down? Other may have some ideas
Click to expand...
 
Johnny, thanks for all the help... I have a Sta-Rite System 3 Mod S7M120 Cartridge filter and according to my owners manual, it cannot be backwashed. My only option is to take the thing apart and clean it. In theory this sounds quite easy, I'm just surprised at how much water was draining out.
 

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