Jandy AquaPure 1400 Error Codes 172 and 186

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mountainman3520

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Feb 12, 2011
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Hello,

I've been trying to get my Jandy AquaPure 1400 back up and working and its putting up a fight!

Initially I was getting the cell needs cleaning service code so I cleaned my cell and removed quite a lot of calcium accumulation. This cell is about 5-6 years old so I worried that maybe the cell is worn out and needs replacement. But I'd really like to get another season out of it since I just dumped a bunch of money into a new pump.

After reassembling the system, I no longer got the clean cell code, but now I get two codes, 172 and 186. Looking in a troubleshooting guide I found online, these codes mean there is a problem with the tri-sensor.

I removed and cleaned the sensor with a green pad, although it looked perfectly new inside. I saw no signs of mineral accumulation. Could this sensor still need cleaning even though it looks perfect with shiny contacts? I didn't use acid. Errors did not go away.

I also ran a test recommended by the troubleshooting guide involving pushing the test buttons on the circuit card while also pushing the front panel buttons. The salt level read 2.8 as expected and the high temp read 91 as expected. The regular temp read 74 when the guide said it should read 75. The guide said that if the output numbers didn't match expected values then the circuit card is bad and if they did match then the tri-sensor is bad. So I had one number off by one degree. Does that really mean this circuit card is bad and the root cause of my trouble?

I'm getting frustrated. If I replace the sensor ($170) and that isn't the problem, then I could end up replacing the circuit card too ($100?). And the salt cell may also be shot and give me more trouble once the other items are fixed since it is old and has seemed flaky lately ($500+). If I am forced to replace the salt cell, I'll be forced to replumb and buy yet another sensor ($200?) since not only is the new cell incompatible with the old one but so is the sensor!!!! ACK!

What should I do? Can anyone tell conclusively what needs to be done/replaced from this description?

Should I cut my losses and trash this whole Jandy AquaPure system and buy a new one from another manufacturer? I won't by a complete new system from Jandy if I can't reasonably debug, repair, and obtain compatible replacement parts after 5 years. If I just had to replace the cell once every 5 years for $500, fine. But it seems like every part in this system has a 2-5 year life.

Please help!

Thanks
 
You have correctly diagnosed the situation with the troubleshooting guide.
It is most likely the sensor, but it could be the sensor and the board.
The average service life of these cell is around 5 years, so you are wise to consider the price of replacing the cell and the corresponding sensor in your overall replacement strategy.

In your situation, I believe it would be best to replace the entire system. The cost to replace the upgraded components will be higher than replacing the overall system.

Should your next system be a Jandy? The separate cell and sensors found in the newer systems allow you to replace individual failed components without replacing the entire cell.

I like the Goldline Aquarite system.
The Pentair Intellichlor is also a very good unit.
Auto Pilot systems are top of the line.
Compu-pool systems are fairly new to the market, but seem to be getting favorable reviews.

Please post your decision

Thanks

PSG
 
I've been getting the same error codes and have ordered a new sensor.
A friend is now having the same problem.

It seems odd that they are all failing at the same time.

Mine will read salinity and temperature, but the FLOW light is off. Does this mean the flow sensor portion is not working ?

-- Lee
 
Ok, just registered to help people like me going through jandy error codes 172 and 181... Plus it can give you error code 186 or 145. These are all caused by two things... First tri sensor which will cost ypu around 165 dollars on ebay and front board and it is aroumd 215... So like many people said on this forum who are experts and i am sure know more than i do, first trouble shoot the front board... If it passes the test than order a tri sensor which is going to cost you around 165 dollars... And after replaceing the tri sensor...reset the all system and restart it and all your errors should be gone...mine drove me crazy and googled it for two days and read everything.... The main error code is 172... When you read 172, whatever you do clean it or not if it is alder than two years you need a new one...that is it...forget the other codes...mine was giving 145 which means high salt, tested several times and it was 3200 but with error code 172, it was readi g 4500 :) and also it was giving low temp error too... So domino effect... Man code here is 172... When you see it, troubleshoot the front board, it can be a little off just to let you know but it should be ok, after order a new tei sensor....But be careful there are two kinds of sensors...one is older screw type and a new type so be careful and make sure before ordering... And one last thing... Order it from a trustable seller so you wont end up with a used and refurbished one... Hope this would help someone....
 
A 183-186 code will generate a 172 code which is a "Flow Sensor Service" code. A 186 code means that the temperature probe on the sensor has failed. Usually in most cases you would just have to replace the sensor. However if your unit is under warranty (consult your manual), then call it in to get it replaced. If you have a 3-port sensor (current cell), then you would need the slotted flow sensor. Otherwise if you have the 2-port cell (discontinued) you would need to get the threaded flow sensor.
 
Hello... hopefully someone is still reading this forum...

I *too* have the 172/186 error codes on my APURE1400 (installed Aug 2007). Cleaned cell & filters then ran the front board test... 2 of the 3 test produced different readings: 2.7 (should read 2.8), 74 (should read 75), and 91 (should read 91).

So based on the guide, if the readings are different then it's the board...

It's not clear in the troubleshooting guide if different means all three readings are different or just some. Is there any other tests I can run to confirm if the board is truly the issue?

Thanks in advance!
 
seasonedtech said:
not clear in the troubleshooting guide if different means all three readings are different or just some. Is there any other tests I can run to confirm if the board is truly the issue?
Click to expand...

Your readings are close enough to what they should be, so I think you are OK. My front board tested similar to yours. In my case I went in and re-calibrated the salt sensor and my cell worked for awhile. Then the green "flow" light started working intermittently so my tri-sensor was fading fast. In my case, the tri-sensor with a 16 foot cord was $200, so I bit the bullet and put in a whole new cell/sensor/cord replacement for a little over $500. Everything has been working OK since (about a month).

I have read a post where one technician posted that he did not see the front boards go bad very often on the Jandy's, but the senors go bad all the time. So I was hoping the newer cells had updated sensors that hold up better, time will tell.

Charlie.
 
seasonedtech said:
Thanks! Glad to hear someone else had similar readings. I think I'll give the sensor one more "good" cleaning and if no go then I'll just order a new sensor -I'm finding it to be about $180. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Great, let us know how it turns out. I am assuming you have an older square cell with the separate thread in sensor? If so, I have my old square cell that was working great when the sensor would let it. I'll let you have it for cheap if you want a back up bargain cell. I changed my fittings for the new cell so it is of no use to me.

Charlie.
 

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We had the same error codes earlier in the summer. We replaced the flow sensor and salt cell and everything is working fine! :whoot: We have wonderfully clear water thanks to the help from everyone on this board!

Good luck!
 
Is there a way to supply the information to the board it's looking for without replacing the sensor.
Like bypassing the sensor.
If say 3.2 of salt = 2.7 vdc and flow = 5vdc. that you could just get a pot and tweak it in to satisfy the interlock.

At the end of the day I just want my cell to turn on. Like before throwing this whole thing in the trash, I would like it to reverse every 1/2 hour, and be full on without interlocks.

Does anyone have the schematics or board drawings?

Bill
 
I am also having trouble with 172/186 error codes. It seems like every time the chlorine generator gets cleaned the flow sensor stops working. The first time it failed was right after we bought our house, and the generator had just been cleaned. After a lot of stress trying to troubleshoot and some odd months using a float unit to distribute chlorine because everyone wanted over a thousand dollars to fix or replace the generator, I finally found a flow sensor online and replace it myself. After replacement it took a while (maybe 30 minutes?) of running before the error code went away, but then it was running fine every since that.

It has only been a bit over a year since I bought a new flow sensor. Right after I did the acid cleaning of the generator (which in no way touches the flow sensor as it is removed during cleaning!) the unit immediately started throwing the error code again! However this time after running the pumps for about an hour and restarting the system (turning off power for a minute and then turning it back on) a few times the error code went away. However, recently the chlorine levels in the pool have been not being kept up, and a couple times I have caught the unit throwing the error code again. The last time it happened I cycled power a couple times and finally the code went away.

This is really stressing me out! I am not going to pay nearly $200 every year for a new flow sensor, when I can just buy the chlorine tabs for the year for under $100. I just don't understand why the flow sensor would keep failing, and why it would always happen right after cleaning the generator metal, which doesn't even touch the flow sensor. Is the Jandy 1400 just a piece of junk? Or could there be something faulty with the piping? I did notice something strange and I don't know if it is normal or not, but the piping that goes through the chlorine generator seems to run in parallel to the main piping (actually diverted, so the length of pipe through that path is longer than the main path), which at best would seem to cut the flow to the generator in half and at worst could completely eliminate flow to the generator if there were any obstructions. Is it possible this design leads to a poor seal or something that makes starting the flow iffy and this is why it takes a while for it to stop throwing error codes and sometimes causes it to throw them at startup?

If anybody could shed more light on this I would appreciate it, as I am pulling my hair out over this one!
 
Perhaps you should start a new thread, and post a picture of the plumbing and the chlorinator. There's no particular reason why there should be a bypass around the Jandy cell, and if it is a bypass, it would certainly explain low flow errors. :hammer:
 
Mr.Billyd said:
Is there a way to supply the information to the board it's looking for without replacing the sensor.
Like bypassing the sensor.
If say 3.2 of salt = 2.7 vdc and flow = 5vdc. that you could just get a pot and tweak it in to satisfy the interlock.

At the end of the day I just want my cell to turn on. Like before throwing this whole thing in the trash, I would like it to reverse every 1/2 hour, and be full on without interlocks.

Does anyone have the schematics or board drawings?

Bill
Click to expand...

If we can only figure out how to bypass the obviously poorly designed/manufactured tri sensor, we would probably show up on Zodiac's P&L!
They must sell a ton of these things as replacements!
But seriously, we're essentially being held hostage for a $1,000 piece of equipment by a plastic piece of garbage!
Enough is enough with this thing. There has to be a way to bypass the sensor and just run chlorine production.
On a related note, I brought the C1900 ORP/Ph device which lasted less than a year as well. The problem? The sensors. Just didn't feel like constantly replacing them also so I disconnected the thing. Zodiac/Jandy knows they have issues with their sensors - just find a rep and they all have them in their cars.
 
Could someone tell me where this diagnostics/troubleshooting guide is? I just started seeing the same codes but cant seem to find this information anywhere.

seasonedtech said:
Hello... hopefully someone is still reading this forum...

I *too* have the 172/186 error codes on my APURE1400 (installed Aug 2007). Cleaned cell & filters then ran the front board test... 2 of the 3 test produced different readings: 2.7 (should read 2.8), 74 (should read 75), and 91 (should read 91).

So based on the guide, if the readings are different then it's the board...

It's not clear in the troubleshooting guide if different means all three readings are different or just some. Is there any other tests I can run to confirm if the board is truly the issue?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
 
Holy necropost Batman!

There are lots of places that list the error codes, here is one:

Jandy AquaPure Error/Service Codes

You have an issue with the flow sensor. How old is the sensor and/or the salt cell. Cells typically need replacing every 4-5 years and the flow sensors have need replacing even more frequently, although there is a new design that is supposed to be better.
 
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