Simpool pH calibration

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susa

susa

0
Oct 31, 2010
612
Deep South
(open thread for anyone using Simpool pH or similar Seko or any brand small acid injection / sensor systems)

am always having fun in calibrating the Simpool pH, per the user directions on pg 15 of the manual.

9.2 pH Regulation
. Dip the pH electrode into a tap water glass
. Dip the electrode into the pH 7.3 buffer solution and share for a few seconds
. Leave electrode into buffer solution, place on plane surface and don't touch cable or electrode

* Rotate a little bit clockwise to the right hand side knob
-- If the right hand side led is green rotare clockwise the know (yes, know, not knob) until the led will become orange colour.
-- If the right had side led is red rotate anticlockwise the know (yes, know, not knob) until the led will became (not becomes) orange colour.

. Assembly the front panel of the pump (-end of directions-)
Click to expand...

apart from the dearth of english majors at the factory, does anything in the above implies that the "knob" needs to be in a startup pH dial value or it does not matter, ie. for example it could be currently in 6.5 and the directions for calibration are the same ?

I've tested this condition and usually the probe would immediately pump small quantity of acid when placed into the tap water for a second and it stops when placed into the buffer solution. It's reaction to the dip (tap) and dip (buffer) depends on start value but the directions are silent as to that aspect.

If I set the dial before the first dip (tap water) into 7.3 it may start to blink green or it may be a solid green. At that point moving clockwise always results in a solid red, unlike the directions which ask for orange colour.

Unit still works fine, I keep dial to a value that maintains 7.4-7.5 despite having fun with the italenglish directions.
 
Uhuh I hear ya..
I was stumped by "Flashing red when the pH is too high or too low in this case dosage is interrupted"
Which I find out through trial and error means that if the unit tries to compensate for high pH by pumping acid, but the pH still rises then dosing will stop as the logic is aware that it is incapable of lowering pH.
Doesn't really make sense to me, shouldn't it at least try.
 
solarboy said:
Doesn't really make sense to me, shouldn't it at least try.
Click to expand...
When the unit is pumping acid and the PH in the pool does not go down, it assumes that the hose is broken and stops pumping acid least it pump the whole tank out on the floor. It might be wrong and the hose might be fine, but they don't want to risk it.

susa, no clue what they mean.
 
>> I was stumped by "Flashing red when the pH is too high or too low in this case dosage is interrupted"

What do you do in calibration steps, that is, do you first dial the setting to something neutral, say 7.3 smack in the middle or do you leave it in whatever value it is currently and proceed to do the doubledip and then try to move 1st counterclock according to the color pattern?

I always have a solid green so the orange color is elusive in my case.

Oh and what happened when you contacted the Aqua IT team? Did they ever offer to replace the sensor for you?
 
susa said:
>> I was stumped by "Flashing red when the pH is too high or too low in this case dosage is interrupted"

What do you do in calibration steps, that is, do you first dial the setting to something neutral, say 7.3 smack in the middle or do you leave it in whatever value it is currently and proceed to do the doubledip and then try to move 1st counterclock according to the color pattern?

I always have a solid green so the orange color is elusive in my case.

Oh and what happened when you contacted the Aqua IT team? Did they ever offer to replace the sensor for you?
Click to expand...
I did attempt calibration at the beginning of the season but as I appear to have lost/never received any cap for the sensor holder, I have to turn on the doser without the pump using bits of wire. I did it once and I held the tip in the solution and turned it left and right hoping that when I turned it below 7.3 on the dial it would start pumping and would stop pumping if I turned it above 7.3.
Nowadays I calibrate it by measuring pH directly in the pool manually and turning the dial up and down until it stabilises where I want the pH to be and this seems to work well.
I'm still not 100% sure that my problems are from a dodgy sensor or from the fact that I was doing a start up on a freshly plastered pool and the doser was unable to keep up with my a acid demand as I dilute my acid 5 to 1 as recommended in the manual (I put 1 gallon 33% MA in a 5 gallon container with 4 gallons water). So I haven't got in touch with them yet, I want to be sure first.
 
hello solarboy,

just checking to see if your simpool ph unit's sensor is still giving you questionable pump rates. do you still hand measure the ph and adjust the dial to suit?

just wondering if the 'fully automated' approach is the way to go, or if the semi automatic (measure and adjust dial) is a more reliable bet. I notice many other peristaltic pumps don't have the sensor to give feedback to the controller though the price difference does make it an attractive proposition.

thanks.
 
Hi Openpool,
The unit does still manage to maintain a stable pH although I have noticed a variation over the season due to temp. I initially set it up at 7.5pH and now 6 months later the pool has a pH of 7.4, so it seems to work OK. It was quite cheap so I'm not suprised the dial is not accurate. I remember it was accurate when I 1st bought it last year and I recently fitted another for a client that was accurate when fitted so maybe a capacitor or something dries out. Otherwise it's very good although quite noisy.
 
>>I recently fitted another for a client that was accurate when fitted so maybe a capacitor or something dries out.

just had a new board sent by Aqua to USA under warranty, appears to work fine.

did you notice the small rubber grommet deteriorate where the acid feed tube is connected to saddle valve ? I had to dig out the old grommet and am running my system without it, appears to work just fine and there is no backflow pressure issues. the grommet had imploded as the rubber deteriorated.
 
To quiet down a Simpool, a box from Home Depot and some insulation - totally quiet unit

15cdah0.jpg
 

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