Please hold my hand...

fuffy

0
Mar 26, 2011
15
Cowden, IL
I don't know if this should be posted in this section, The BBB section, or the starting up section. So if I should post it elsewhere please lmk.
I ordered the TF-100 test kit, and it came fast! I'm alittle intimidated by it honestly.
I plan on pumpimg the water off the cover and removing it this week when the rain stops, here's where I get confused. After I get the water level back up and have the pump running do I test, or let the pump run for 24 hours and then test?
What all information about my pool should I have on hand so you wonderful experts can help me through this? :)
 
You should test right away and after about 12 hours. Don't add anything until the second test. You should also test your tap water. If you post the results of all three tests, we should be able to help you get going. The more you test, the better you will get at it.

See this post for more information.
 
Don't bother to test the tap water for CYA -- it won't have any and you might as well save your reagent, but do test your pool water for that parameter. For the tap water, the most important parameters to know are CH, TA and pH (you can test for FC and CC if you like, but that's not really necessary). For your pool, we also need FC, CC and CYA in addition to the CH, TA and pH.
 
After the pool is full let the pump mix the water well for an hour or so and then test. Let us know if you have any questions about conducting any of the tests. Post the results and we'll go from there!
 
Just get the water well mixed. The pump helps, obviously. Brushing also gets things to mix, especially if you have a wall whale brush.

My advice: Remove cover, turn on water, brush until your arms get sore, then relax in the shade with a cold drink. When sufficiently recovered, go brush some more. Repeat. Start pump as soon as the water level is high enough. Once the pump's been on for an hour or so, grab a sample and start testing.

You aren't going to get the chemistry perfect in one crack anyway, so if the water's not perfectly mixed, it probably will be by the time you test tomorrow. Just go easy on the chemicals, except chlorine. Chlorine will go away on its own if you overdo it, but the other stuff can get ugly fast. Start with a coarse adjustment, then get closer, then closer, and pretty soon you're in range, and then you can get obsessive with the fine-tuning.
 
Richard320 said:
Just get the water well mixed. The pump helps, obviously. Brushing also gets things to mix, especially if you have a wall whale brush.

My advice: Remove cover, turn on water, brush until your arms get sore, then relax in the shade with a cold drink. When sufficiently recovered, go brush some more. Repeat. Start pump as soon as the water level is high enough. Once the pump's been on for an hour or so, grab a sample and start testing.

You aren't going to get the chemistry perfect in one crack anyway, so if the water's not perfectly mixed, it probably will be by the time you test tomorrow. Just go easy on the chemicals, except chlorine. Chlorine will go away on its own if you overdo it, but the other stuff can get ugly fast. Start with a coarse adjustment, then get closer, then closer, and pretty soon you're in range, and then you can get obsessive with the fine-tuning.

Fuffy, welcome to TFP!!

The advice you've received is absolutely the best! :party:

Richard, that is GREAT advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :goodjob: :cheers: (Mods, I'm thinking this advice should be stickied, especially the last paragraph-- L&L, Ted)
 
Ok, now we're cooking with oil. The cover is off and a ran a test on the water that was still in the pool.
TC-0
FC-0
CC-0
CYA-0
CH-310
TA-200
PH- 8.2 (or more, it was bright red)
The pool was only half full, so I have it filling now. I test again after I get the pump running right?

I will say I was suprised at how clear the water was! If I would have waited for my husband to help remove the cover I don't think there would have been much in the pool. I was impatient and had my son help me and we ended up getting the cover in the water sending some nasty muck stuff in. :oops:
 
Moving right along :goodjob:

Water test results are not really reliable until the pool is full and the pump has been running for an hour or more. However, you can use these results to get a sense of where you are likely to be.

PH and TA are both quite high, expect to need to use a fair bit of acid.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
JasonLion said:
Moving right along :goodjob:

Water test results are not really reliable until the pool is full and the pump has been running for an hour or more. However, you can use these results to get a sense of where you are likely to be.

PH and TA are both quite high, expect to need to use a fair bit of acid.

I found that out last year, I could never get the PH under control. I used alot of acid. I'm hoping those with this nice test kit, and the wisdom on here, I'll get it in control this year. :)
 
Alrighty, the pool is full and the pump has been running for quite awhile now. Here are my readings.
TC-0
FC-0
CC-0
CYA-0
TA-260
PH-8.2
CH-310
I plugged that into the calculator and am all kinds of confused lol.
I won't be able to get to town to buy any stabilizer until tomorrow. I do have alot of bleach on hand so I could start shocking. I have some Muric Acid left over from last year, is it still good, should I try to lower the PH some? Would it be wise to use some Dichlor or Trichlor while shocking to try and raise the CYA and lower the Ph?
 
fuffy said:
Alrighty, the pool is full and the pump has been running for quite awhile now. Here are my readings.
TC-0
FC-0
CC-0
CYA-0
TA-260
PH-8.2
CH-310
I plugged that into the calculator and am all kinds of confused lol.
I won't be able to get to town to buy any stabilizer until tomorrow. I do have alot of bleach on hand so I could start shocking. I have some Muric Acid left over from last year, is it still good, should I try to lower the PH some? Would it be wise to use some Dichlor or Trichlor while shocking to try and raise the CYA and lower the Ph?
The acid will still be good. Get pH down ASAP. 8.2 is max, so you may be higher, so pool calculator won't be perfect. Add acid, mix it up good, check it again in an hour and repeat as needed. Then start shocking. Unless you have dichlor or trichlor sitting around already, just buy plain stabilizer to get CYA level up to about 30. When the water is clear, it passes the overnight test and the FC drops below 10, then run another full set of tests and we can help you get things fine tuned.

Remember, pH will read wrong at shock levels, so you need to get it right before you start shocking, and then ignore it until shocking is done.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.