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Thread: Copper-to-PVC pipe adapters

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    SF Bay Area
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    441

    Copper-to-PVC pipe adapters

    2 inch copper pipe exists between the outlet of the gas heater and where the pipes disappear into the ground heading to the pool returns / spa jets. The copper pipe is where I intend to install a GoldLine (Hayward) H40 chlorine cell.

    Home Depot and Orchard Supply do not carry copper-to-PVC adapters in the size that I need. Also, I see that several online pool stores offer a "no sweat" copper-to-PVC adapter that utilize either one or two o-rings for sealing. These "no sweat" adapters sound easy to install, but I am very leery of how well they will hold up and am leaning heavily to the old fashioned copper-to-PVC adapeter which require sweating. Any opinions on which approach is best?

    Also, where is a good source for copper-to-PVC adapters?

    Thanks!

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
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    Ft Lauderdale, Florida
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    1,455
    The copper stub outs that exited the heaters were usually connected to CPVC Female Threaded Adapters, then glued to normal PVC Sch 40 pipe. The CPVC is a gray PVC that has better heat characteristics than Sch 40.
    I don't remember there being a special adapter as I believe the thread on the stub out is a standard PVC thread.

    Hope this helps,
    Sean Assam - Sean@teamhorner.com
    National Accounts and Commercial Products Manager
    AquaCal Heat Pumps www.aquacal.com
    AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generators www.autopilot.com

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
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    Location
    SF Bay Area
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    441
    Hello Poolsean,

    This existing 2-inch copper pipe exits the heater for about 1 foot horizontally, then drops vertically for about 18 inches, then runs horizontally for about 2 feet until it hits the 3-way Ortega valve, and then disappears into the ground on the way to the pool. Sorry about not having a photo yet.

    I intend to leave the existing 2-inch copper pipe on the discharge side of the heater. I plan to install the GoldLine H40 chlorine cell in the 2 foot horizontal section just prior to the 3-way Ortega valve. The GoldLine chlorine cell comes with two 2-inch unions, one for each side of the cell.

    So I need to transition from 2-inch copper pipe to 2-inch PVC. Then I will glue the slip-side of the provided 2-inch union onto the PVC, and then the 2-inch union will screw onto the chlorine cell threads. And then reverse the process for the other end of the chlorine cell, transitioning from PVC back to the existing 2-inch copper pipe.

    I'm thinking these are the parts that I need. The first item is the copper piece and is kind of expensive at $12-14 per fitting. Not a lot of money in the context of pools, but kind of expensive for just a single fitting.

    [web]http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1VLU5[/web]


    The second fitting would be a pvc "2 Inch ADAPTER, MALE, MIPT X SOCKET".

    Is this going to be the right way, or is there an easier, better way that I am missing?

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ft Lauderdale, Florida
    Posts
    1,455
    Titanium,

    Isn't your ortega valve pvc? If so, can't you plumb directly from the cell union to the valve, rather than going back to copper?
    If you have to back to copper, your plans look ok.
    Sean Assam - Sean@teamhorner.com
    National Accounts and Commercial Products Manager
    AquaCal Heat Pumps www.aquacal.com
    AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generators www.autopilot.com

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    441
    Poolsean,

    My 3-way Ortega valve for pool drain / spa drain is made of PVC. The 3-way Ortega valve in question, for the pool return / spa jets is made of brass/copper.

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

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