how to replace a main pool drain

[bkh114]

heya all, I'm a newbie here, great forum. We came home from vacation to find our 50 yr old pool empty due to a hole in the drain right next to the pipe fitting. Could have plugged it w/ hydraulic cement and refilled the pool but no, I decided to undertake most of a complete re-mod myself. I've already removed tile and under cut 1 1/2 wide groove below them, knocked out all the hollow spots, and under cut the light. I also plan to replace / install: skimmer, jets, Led lighting, wall benches and filtration to include a salt system to be discussed later.

Here's my plan for the drain:
Chip aprox 2' wide hole around current drain keeping as much rebar as possible in place.
Cut back the old pvc line, apply pvc thread compound to threaded fitting of new plastic drain and threaded male end of new pvc connector, prime & glue to existing pipe.
Tie or weld in new re bar to old and or drill in new rebar making sure to clean holes and dry before installing rebar w/ epoxie.
Fill excessive void under pool w/ pea gravel.
Apply two part SGM Bond Kote to old cement
Pour high strength concrete and trowel allowing room for the diamond brite finish.

I only want to do this once so does this plan sound about right or did I forget something? All tips welcome.

 

[JasonLion]

That sounds about right. The main thing is to be sure you mount the drain fixture at the right height, so it will line up with the finished pool surface.

It might be simpler if you kept all of your questions in one topic. It is much more difficult for us to remember what we have already told you when similar questions are spread out across several topics.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Sounds like you have all your ducks in a row!

 

[bkh114]

ready to pour tomorrow, Iv'e plumbed in the drain to allow room for 1/2" of diamond brite and welded in rebar to existing and applied sgm "Bond Kote" to old concrete surfaces. So I guess I just need to hear that it's ok to use home depot high strength concrete for this pour?

 

[JamesW]

What are you going to put in the bottom hole, a hydrostat or a plug?

Have you pressure tested the main drain line to be sure that it is not leaking?

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Should be fine. Just make sure there are no voids, i.e. pack it in tight, and keep a rough surface for the plaster to bite on to. Let it cure fully! Keep the surface moistened.

Scott

 

[bkh114]

The old plumbing held @20 lbs for about three hours. Just a plug to go in the bott, I dug about a 2ft deep hole and tamped in concrete shards to help provide drainage should i need to remove the plug. How long should I allow the new concrete to cure before applying diamond brite?

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Concrete needs about a month to fully cure.

Scott

 

[bkh114]

Concrete needs about a month to fully cure.

Scott

are you telling me i need wait a month before applying diamond brite? they have scedualed it in about ten days. they plan to apply two part SGM "Bond Kote" the day before.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Push the plaster out. I can't make concrete cure faster and it needs all the strength and bond it can get. That is where water pressure is at its the highest. It would not be fun seeing it separate.

Scott

 

[solarboy]

Wouldn't the Diamondbrite actually help by stopping the concrete dry out?

 

[DBfan187]

They build pools here in south GA and N. Fl within 2 weeks, plaster, decking, and all. I've never seen one crack or seperate.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Often, they will use a stronger mix. The concrete gets hard enough and strong enough two weeks in and it's in one shot usually, no cold joints. The concrete in this situation continues to cure but is strong enough to be able to move forward sooner.

A cold joint between the gunite and bags if Sacrete is a different animal.

Scott

 

[JamesW]

If you add anchoring cement to the mix, the concrete will set up much faster. The more you add, the faster the set.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Too weak.

Scott

 

[JamesW]

Too weak.

Scott

What's too weak? Adding anchoring cement? The concrete is not going to be under any great stress.

Waiting might be ideal, but I don't think it's critical.

 

[bkh114]

Separation, shrinking and cracking; not happy words when working w/concrete. To help avoid all that I welded in new rebar to existing, applied SGM textured BondKote 24 hrs prior and wet the area before troweling in concrete mixed with as little water as possible. I plunged an electric chipping hammer into the pour against the rebar to vibrate out as many air bubbles as possible and to help it settle in. Also I've been keeping it covered w/wet towels as it cures. Like I said, I only want to do this once, twice would really suck. Look'n like it's going to be about two weeks before they start plastering, I think I'll be ok. I replaced the skimmer in a similar method, ***** jetting a new line under about ten feet of concrete decking.

 

[bkh114]

We got bumped up for tomorrow, still think I'll be fine on the concrete patch. They bond koted today, diamondbrite tomorrow. Since I saved a lot prepping the pool myself, I'm paying our plaster extra to do a better job; at least 3/8" on the sides, 1/2" on the bottom. John came by referral and has been working (subcontracting) for several local pool companies in S. FL for twenty five years. P.M. me if you'd like his number. I've been told It's illegal in our state to subcontract this work out so companies put these guys on their payrolls. They'll tell you they use only their own employees but they really just pay somebody else to do it and charge you extra. We still get the same worthless warranty from Diamond brite but are paying $700-1000 less for it. We ended up choosing cool blue w/ extra color chips, people have told us pigmented finishes can look impressive at first but tend to be distracting plus fade and streak later. Too late for us but yesterday I looked at a pool done in pearl, costs about $3 dollars more a bag and I'm not sure if it's even listed in there samples. It has an off white base w/ an array of small to large natural stone flakes that gives the water a beautiful yet subtle tropical look.

 

[Hurricane Gio]

We got bumped up for tomorrow, still think I'll be fine on the concrete patch. They bond koted today, diamondbrite tomorrow. Since I saved a lot prepping the pool myself, I'm paying our plaster extra to do a better job; at least 3/8" on the sides, 1/2" on the bottom. John came by referral and has been working (subcontracting) for several local pool companies in S. FL for twenty five years. P.M. me if you'd like his number. I've been told It's illegal in our state to subcontract this work out so companies put these guys on their payrolls. They'll tell you they use only their own employees but they really just pay somebody else to do it and charge you extra. We still get the same worthless warranty from Diamond brite but are paying $700-1000 less for it. We ended up choosing cool blue w/ extra color chips, people have told us pigmented finishes can look impressive at first but tend to be distracting plus fade and streak later. Too late for us but yesterday I looked at a pool done in pearl, costs about $3 dollars more a bag and I'm not sure if it's even listed in there samples. It has an off white base w/ an array of small to large natural stone flakes that gives the water a beautiful yet subtle tropical look.

I have Cool Blue and LOVE IT!

Enjoy!

 

[bkh114]

It's done, well almost. I've been told to wait a month before installing the SWG and a couple o weeks before running the vac but we had a party planned so I ran it anyway. thanks for all your comments.
seeya, b