Hi everyone, I'm Kathy, new to the forum and have been reading through all the things I need to have a sparkling clear pool. I started out with a green algae vinyl pool filled with leaves. I scraped out all the leaves I could see and I have been adding chlorine bleach up to shock values for a week. There is no more green, but the water is still somewhat cloudy. I have a feeling I know why. I recently purchased the TF 100 test kit. My readings are as follows: FC:36 CC:0 TC:36 pH 7.2 T/A:120 CH:800 CYA 110. So I'm pretty sure I don't need any more bleach for a while and definitely won't use the calcium hypochlorite shock my husband bought. I also used some pool "first aid" in my attempts to clear up the pool. Oh and the borate level was 15. This is my first attempt at pool chemistry...we used a pool service last year and spent big bucks to try to keep it clear. I also have a pool robot that I plan to use to get the dirt up, but I'm afraid to put it in until the chlorine levels come down. So is there any suggestions on what to do next? Do I need to use something to reduce the calcium? Thank you in advance for any suggestions...this is a great informative site and I'm glad to be part of it :lol:
sleepingduty's pool
- Thread starter sleepingduty
- Start date
Welcome Kathy 
You have two issues. One your CYA at 110 is too high. Second is the calcium. The only way to reduce the two would be a partial drain and fill or R/O treatment. if avail. in your area. I would aim for at least a 50% drain and fill which should bring your CYA down to a more manageable 60ppm and the calcium decrease will depend on the CH level in your fill water.
Getting the TF100 was the hard part, you have all the tools you need. Could you possibly test the CH of your fill water so we can advise you on that portion?
You have two issues. One your CYA at 110 is too high. Second is the calcium. The only way to reduce the two would be a partial drain and fill or R/O treatment. if avail. in your area. I would aim for at least a 50% drain and fill which should bring your CYA down to a more manageable 60ppm and the calcium decrease will depend on the CH level in your fill water.
Getting the TF100 was the hard part, you have all the tools you need. Could you possibly test the CH of your fill water so we can advise you on that portion?
Hi, welcome to TFP!
At present the only ways to reduce calcium are to have a reverse osmosis service come treat the pool or to partially drain and refill the pool. This will also take care of the CYA which is also too high. Before you decide to drain and refill test the water you would refill the pool with to see what the CH level is.
What part of the country is the pool located?
At present the only ways to reduce calcium are to have a reverse osmosis service come treat the pool or to partially drain and refill the pool. This will also take care of the CYA which is also too high. Before you decide to drain and refill test the water you would refill the pool with to see what the CH level is.
What part of the country is the pool located?
I live in Big Spring, TX, the water is very hard here. Big Spring has not had a soaking rain in months! I will try to test the fill water. I have not heard of a company nearby that would refill with RO water. (I've been here for about 8 months and bought a house with a pool. The previous owners did not take great care of the pool...the liner has wrinkles in the bottom 
) I know I can get the pool in better condition with more knowledge. Thanks for your reply...I will report fill water tests tomorrow!
) I know I can get the pool in better condition with more knowledge. Thanks for your reply...I will report fill water tests tomorrow!
Welcome to TFP!
No, you won't find an R/O service in Big Spring. Draining and refilling is your only option out there.
How much water is in the pool? Is it 1/2, 3/4, or completely full? Since you have wrinkles in the liner, it kinda lets me think that the water has been low before, if it isn't now. With liner pools, you really want to do a series of partial drains and partial refills. If you drain a liner pool completely, you risk wrinkles and other problems with the liner.
No, you won't find an R/O service in Big Spring. Draining and refilling is your only option out there.
How much water is in the pool? Is it 1/2, 3/4, or completely full? Since you have wrinkles in the liner, it kinda lets me think that the water has been low before, if it isn't now. With liner pools, you really want to do a series of partial drains and partial refills. If you drain a liner pool completely, you risk wrinkles and other problems with the liner.
Welcome!
It would also be helpfull if you listed your pool details in your signature. Have you been backwashing or cleaning your filters?
It would also be helpfull if you listed your pool details in your signature. Have you been backwashing or cleaning your filters?
If your fill water is high in CH, you might want to look into having fresh water trucked in. Test the fill water and post back here. A CH of 400 is still workable even though it is high.
Ok so I finally tested the tap water and retested the pool water this morning. [Pool water] FC 28 CC 0 TC 28 pH 7.5 T/A 130 CH 900 and CYA 110. [Tap water] FC 2 CC 0 pH 7.8 T/A 160 CH 550 and CYA 0.
The type of pool I have is an in ground, vinyl lined (by Findlay Vinyl). It is kidney shaped and 30 x 14 with 3 ft at the shallow end and 5 feet at the deep end. The pool pump is made by Pentair called the Challenger 1.5 HP.
With the calcium hardness that high in the regular tap water, I don't think that draining and refilling with tap water is going to be the answer. Midland is the largest big city closest to me. Do you think I should start at ground zero and replace the liner as well as the water? This is starting to look like a big cash outlay here
Kathy
The type of pool I have is an in ground, vinyl lined (by Findlay Vinyl). It is kidney shaped and 30 x 14 with 3 ft at the shallow end and 5 feet at the deep end. The pool pump is made by Pentair called the Challenger 1.5 HP.
With the calcium hardness that high in the regular tap water, I don't think that draining and refilling with tap water is going to be the answer. Midland is the largest big city closest to me. Do you think I should start at ground zero and replace the liner as well as the water? This is starting to look like a big cash outlay here
Kathy
If the liner is in good shape, why would you want to replace it? I have a few wrinkles in my liner, pics in my sig, and it doesnt bother me that much. Liner is 8 years old and in a few more years, I will then replace the liner, redo the cement some, and then put a nice new commercial grade liner in.
If I were you, I would look at seeing how much it would cost to truck in some water or invest in a water softner system. Our water up here in ND is very hard and most people have a water softner system. Works great in my book.
Just my 2 cents.
If I were you, I would look at seeing how much it would cost to truck in some water or invest in a water softner system. Our water up here in ND is very hard and most people have a water softner system. Works great in my book.
Just my 2 cents.
You're lucky to have a vinyl liner. A plaster pool is more likely to develop scale when your CH is high. You can manage with what you have for now. You will want to lower the TA to around 70 and keep the pH around 7.2 to 7.5. As long as the liner is in good shape there is no reason to replace it.
When you have a moment, go to the user control panel button at the top left of the page, and enter your pool info into the signature. If you put the info about pool size, finish, pump size and brand, filter type, size, and brand, and any other features you may have, that will put that info at the bottom of each post and it will be easy to reference in the future.
When you have a moment, go to the user control panel button at the top left of the page, and enter your pool info into the signature. If you put the info about pool size, finish, pump size and brand, filter type, size, and brand, and any other features you may have, that will put that info at the bottom of each post and it will be easy to reference in the future.
I hear you, but it's about your only option.
I would suggest you do several partial drains and refills until you get your CYA down around 50ppm. That should have you CH somewhere down around 600-700 which is still high but manageable.
Controlling your pH down to around 7.2-7.4 will negate the high CH and allow you to manage the chemistry a little easier. As an aside, you can't trust that pH test until your FC drops down to 10ppm or lower so don't lower pH just yet....it may already be lower than you think.
So, to repeat, it were my pool and given the info you have provided so far, I would.....
1. Do the drain and refills until my CYA was 50ppm and then retest CH just so you know where it is (probably around 700)
2. Let FC drift on down on it's own until it reaches about 8ppm or less, then retest pH and lower it to 7.2 (if it needs it)
3. Continue to run the pump and the cloudiness will likely clear up soon....it may also be calcium clouding but I don't think so given your test results.
4. You'll have to decide on the liner.
Thanks everyone for your input. I think right now I will consider a few partial refills. Wow there are a lot of knowledgeable members here and I appreciate all the extra info you've given me. Will keep you updated of the progress...Thanks again!