Multi-port question

Mar 17, 2011
10
Hi everyone. Multi-port valve (WC112-148) spider gasket on a Sta-Rite sand filter is leaking (water to waste when on recirc., not so much on filtration). It's not so much a gasket, as it is a putty-like substance in the plug grooves. As such, it is sold as a plug / gasket assembly only. Is there a frugal pool-owner's solution, or best to just replace the plug (which I assume comes with new putty-like stuff)? A search revealed someone replaced the plug, just wondering if there's a cheaper alternative.

Thanks,

John in TN
 
John, welcome to TFP!!

As a temp fix, for water going out the backwash when set on another position, you can certainly plug the backwash port :)

However, you will need to change out the 'spider gasket'/ 'wagon wheel' because the water flowing through the valve is going into all the ports :( This means that some of the water you're trying to filter is going backwards through the filter (into places unfiltered water ought not be) and some is bypassing the filter and going straight to the pool, without being filtered.

I'm not familiar with the model# you gave but, if it's full of putty and not a 'rubber' gasket, this may have been a temp fix in the past and getting the proper gasket is a more proper fix :)
 
Thanks for the reply. The 'gasket' in question was indeed 'designed' that way and is sold only as a 'unit'. It's a MP valve used on Pentair filters, as well. It's similar to plumbing wax, like on a bowl ring. I found one online that I can get for $40 with shipping, but I'll kick and scream every time when paying too much for poor engineering. I may hold off and get a wax wing and just improvise it and re-make what was there - I dunno.

More bothersome is the possibility it may be the handle spring, as it is quite rusty, and the up-down action is sluggish - the valve may have been getting stuck with the handle in a semi-depressed position. I don't know enough about the inner workings of a MP valve to hazard a guess. I'd hate to end up paying more for internals trying to fix it, than just buying a new top half of the valve ($80).

As an aside, and maybe another symptom of said handle-sticking, is that pressure is high at the valve (water was leaking between the upper and lower halves of the valve - O-ring, or something else?). Checking by hand, return pressure seemed to be really high at the return jets, too. Doesn't make alot of sense, as with good return you'd think pressure would be low at the valve. The winter-damaged pressure gauge is minimal help - it starts at 10 with the pump off - but water shouldn't be leaking out of that joint, in any case.

Anyways, thanks again for the reply. Maybe someone else will read the above and say "A-ha! I know what it is!"
 
For posterity, and in case anyone in the future has this question again, this is what I learned....

The 'putty-like stuff' is actually rubber (sort of - more like a flimsier version of rubber). It took on the sticky appearance (I assume) from years in service / chemical degradation. It was almost flush with the diverter surface, and nasty goopy. From the condition it was in, I'm surprised we made it through last season! New, the gasket is probably 3/4" thick and fits into channels of slightly less depth. There is no other reason besides making the end user buy more stuff than they need that this part is only sold as an 'assembly'. Needlessly expensive small repairs do not return customers make.

In the end, if you have this valve and the 'gasket' needs replacement, source a new 'assembly'. Glad I asked the question, though, as another TFP user has the above mentioned offensive part and I'll get it from him. :)
 
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