Need help getting my pool back in line...

[txpoolguy]

Hi, I'm trying to get things going for the spring...Im in San Antonio, TX and never closed the pool over the winter, but didn't tend to it much either. This is the first time I've used the kit ordered here, typically used the basic kit that came with the pool.

Here are the readings I came up with:

FC 15
CC 0
TC 15
PH 8.0
TA 200
CH (couldnt calculate - must be way high, b/c I couldn't get the test sample to turn blue?)
CYA 100+

Looks to be a mess....any help?

Appreciate your input.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Looks like you're going to dump/replace some water to get the CYA down to a normal/testable level. That will likely lower your pH and alk levels too.

Scott

 

[txpoolguy]

Yeah was afraid of that.....appreciate it.

 

[JamesW]

Hi, I'm trying to get things going for the spring...Im in San Antonio, TX and never closed the pool over the winter, but didn't tend to it much either. This is the first time I've used the kit ordered here, typically used the basic kit that came with the pool.

Here are the readings I came up with:

FC 15
CC 0
TC 15
PH 8.0
TA 200
CH (couldnt calculate - must be way high, b/c I couldn't get the test sample to turn blue?)
CYA 100+

Looks to be a mess....any help?

Appreciate your input.

If the calcium sample would not turn blue, you might have metal ion interference. Add 5 to 10 drops of reagent R-0012 first and then do the test as normal.

Go here and choose:

General Test Interferences:
Calcium Hardness Test [updated 3/10/10]

to see how to do the test. Also, test the water for copper and iron.

 

[257WbyMag]

With your CYA level being as high as it is, I'd replace 50% of the water, retest, and go from there.

 

[duraleigh]

Yeah, I agree to lower your CYA first. Taking one parameter at a time, the adjustments are pretty straightforward and not so daunting.

Your FC will drift down on it's own over the next few days and that will likely lower your pH READING as well since the pH test tends to read a little high if FC is over 10ppm.

Read the extended test kit instructions for testing CH in increments of 25ppm instead of 10ppm (it'll save some reagent) and, as suggested above, read Taylor's site about the potential interferences with that test.

Lastly, after everything else is in line, I would address the TA. If your pool is clear and you feel you have it under control, I'd probably leave the TA alone. There are instructions on how to lower it in pool school but I wouldn't be in a rush to do it.