PoolPilot Salt Sensor 000 reading

Aug 6, 2008
429
Honolulu
Today the PoolPilot Salt Sensor reading is reading 000.

Otherwise no error messages are being shown, pH sensor is reading correctly as is temperature reading.

It will not produce any chlorine (SC-60 cell), tested for this at incoming spout despite setting at 36%, voltage shows fine (I think) at 6.5 but no amps showing.

Have new spare cell would not work either, also have new spare Tri-sensor, and cable, did not help. Old Tri-sensor is in very good shape but cleaned it anyway. Flushed spring valve and backwashed filter to no avail.

Looks like a board is out but which board, could it be the power cable to the salt cell, or something else? Unit is a little over 3 years old.

Feeding chlorine manually, lucky I caught it before I went out.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
An invalid salt reading means it must be one of the trisensor, the trisensor cable, or electronics inside the main unit. If you tried a new trisensor and cable, then it almost has to be something inside the unit, presumably one of the circuit boards.

If you haven't already, try turning the power off and then back on again and see if that makes any difference. There is some chance that might solve it. If that doesn't help, it is a good time to call AutoPilot tech support.
 
JasonLion,

Thank you for the reply I will call them Tuesday.

As noted in an earlier post the salt reading was somewhat off as was the temperature reading, both of which can be adjusted for in the menu. The tech thought as both were relatively minor I should hold off on spending monies at that time.

If this is a matter of capacitors I might be able to get it fixed inexpensively at a local electonics store. The board that needed replacing (obviously not sure if it is the same board) costs around $450 plus shipping on the net, the tech thought it better to replace the whole unit at around $700 on the net or $900 at AutoPilot but I am not sure if the less expensive one is from an Authorized Dealer. I will check and advise.

Well I had a fairly good run with unit bearing in mind it is outside but covered in our humid, salty climate and it has been running 365 days a year for over 3 or 3 1/2 years. In addition considering our utility loves switching off then on, then off then on again the power, as the infrasture is so antiquated I think I am lucky that it lasted as long as it did. I think I got a fair deal from AutoPilot and will stick with them.

I will advise what the end result will be so it might help others who might get the same issue.
 
Spoke with PoolPilot Tech who stated that the controller board was faulty, as all other readings were fine. Explained to him that I has a new spare Tri-sensor and cell and cable yet it still showed only 000 Salt.

Opened it up, looked at the non-controller board and noticed what I think are two 10 amp capacitators had slight burn marks on them, as did what looked like a mini transformer with copper coils wrapped around it on the controller board. This could be just natural wear and have nothing to do with the problems.

As stated in earlier posts the temperature monitor has been, since it was installed, about 4 F too high, had to adjust in the menu to 4 F minus, tech told me just after I installed it this was not a big issue. Also the salt reading was off by about 300 - 400 too low starting in the first part of year 3, and the menu stated it was off by minus 24%, which they stated indicated a stuck board (now I read faulty board) they said it did not need to be replaced and to wait for it to completely break down. This first call was made when it was still in warranty, but nobody told me that. and in a subsequent call the same was stated.

Next time I see this stuck salt reading I will know the board is not functioning correctly and request it be covered under warranty. My 3 year warranty he told me expired in December of 2010. The salt reading issue which they told me when I called, before that date and had existed for a least a year, was not major so long as it was producing salt and if I adjusted the variance in the menu would not cause problems. Well that seems to be the symptom and the "Stuck Board" that lead up to the fault, which again he used the words "Stuck Board"

Now I am stuck buying a whole new 75003 unit for $700+ if I can find it on the net, or $900+ from AutoPilot and that does not make me happy. The tech stated it was better to do that than buy a $500 replacement controller board.

Tried to get a local tech shop to look at it but the old timer who was great has since retired and the new people could not help me. They did not know of anyone else they could refer me to.
 
dmanb2b,

My apologies for replying so late but I have been a little busy lately.

Thank you for your suggestion but I feel I got a good run on the PoolPilot at nearly 3 years before it started failing, considering I use it 365 days a year. It would be a little cheap of me to ask for a replacement just as it went out of warranty, fairs fair.

I should have been smart enough to recognize I had a failing unit when the salt indicator was stuck and had to be compensated for, in the test readings it read I had compensated by -24% which would have been 1000 ppm too low when I actually had to up it by 400 ppm on the compensator from 2900 ppm reading on the unit to the actual 3300 ppm, to get it to balance with the Taylor test kit and new strips which both read the same give or take 100 -200 ppm. The tech did state the controller readout was stuck when I called but by compensating in the unit I managed a workaround. I should have requested warranty coverage at that earlier time but I did not and that is my fault. It started occurring about 6-9 months earlier than the end of the warranty. Then I would have felt that in all good conscience I had a right to ask for warranty coverage, now it is too late. I will request coverage if I see that happening again in the future.

PoolPilot was good enough to cover two other warranty issues, one of which was expensive, at a much earlier time about a year or so after I bought it, without any arguing from them.

One of their regional sales managers kindly directed me to a less expensive source from which I purchased a new unit for $543 dollars, versus around $700+ on the net, and $900+ from AutoPilot, shipping not included.

I still feel they have a great product, and with the acid feeder, I think it generally superior to most others I have seen at my friends. After helping some friends with other companies' tech reps, I believe that AutoPilot is in an entirely different league. As my wife's sister's ex-husband (we are still good friends), an ex-formula 2 racing driver, once told me it is great to buy a well rated car but if the dealership is poor look again. This is particularly true on each of our islands as we only have one, maybe in some cases two, for each car manufacturer. Well I look upon AutoPilot as a great dealership, so I am sticking with them.

Thank you for your suggestion.

PS. I am sorry that I do not know from whom I purchased it from as I accidently erased the email with the invoice but I will call the sales manager again and when I find out from whom I purchased it I will advise. The box, which arrived yesterday, I ordered it last Thursday, contained no invoice.
 
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