Still trying to figure this all out

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keanes

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Feb 27, 2010
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Still trying to move to the BBB method and figure all of this chem stuff out (I hated chemistry class....). I have a 431G hot tub with a SWG.

A couple of questions:
1 - the tub is fiberglass/acrylic and the mfg recommeds a CH of <50 for better operation of the SWG. Pool School recommends 250. As there is no plaster here, does it really matter what level I go with? I am thinking of staying with 50.
2- To get my CYA level up, I went out an bought some dichloro (sodium dichloro-s-triazinetricne dihydrate). Using the Pool Calc to get my CYA up to 70 I need to add 4oz of stabalizer. Is stabalizer just a different name for dichloro or am I completely off base here?
3 - If I am okay on #2 above, it only takes about 0.5oz of dichloro to raise my FC from 0 - 5. To shock to a FC level of 28 (per the chlorine/CYA chart for SWGs) would take about 2.9 oz. Is there any downside to shocking with the dichloro to quickly get the CYA level up instead of slowing adding it daily? I have turned the SWG generator off till I get my CYA level up.
4 - If I shock now (per#3) or at another time up to a FC of 24 how long do I need to wait till I can use the tub? The test kit only measures up to 5 so I am assuing it is impossible to tell the difference between 6 and 24 with the test kit. Do I need to wait till the test kit shows <5?
5 - My tub is usually covered unless I am in it. When I add chemicals to it should I leave it uncovered for a period of time or is this not necessary? Is it more imporatant for some chemicals like chlorine?
6 - Wanted to try adding borates to the tub and was going to go the easy route with Proteam Supreme Plus. To calc how much to add I thought that I read I could use the Pool Calculator set to boric acid. Is this correct? If it is correct and borates do not change over time, do I really need to buy another test for borates or would using the Pool Calculator and getting approximately 50 be good enough?

Thanks for any help. This site is great!
 
keanes said:
Still trying to move to the BBB method and figure all of this chem stuff out (I hated chemistry class....). I have a 431G hot tub with a SWG.

A couple of questions:
1 - the tub is fiberglass/acrylic and the mfg recommeds a CH of <50 for better operation of the SWG. Pool School recommends 250. As there is no plaster here, does it really matter what level I go with? I am thinking of staying with 50.
I can't help you here. I think I read somewhere that fibreglass will sometimes blister with low CH. But if you live in California or the Southwest, it's a moot point, since your tap water is probably well above 50CH!
2- To get my CYA level up, I went out an bought some dichloro (sodium dichloro-s-triazinetricne dihydrate). Using the Pool Calc to get my CYA up to 70 I need to add 4oz of stabalizer. Is stabalizer just a different name for dichloro or am I completely off base here? Two different products. Stabilizer is cyanouric acid. CYA. It can be bought alone, or as the "carrier" for powdered chlorine products.
3 - If I am okay on #2 above, it only takes about 0.5oz of dichloro to raise my FC from 0 - 5. To shock to a FC level of 28 (per the chlorine/CYA chart for SWGs) would take about 2.9 oz. Is there any downside to shocking with the dichloro to quickly get the CYA level up instead of slowing adding it daily? I have turned the SWG generator off till I get my CYA level up. It will build up fairly quickly on its own as the chlorine will dissipate but the CYA remains forever.... I would just add straight stabilizer and use the SWG.
4 - If I shock now (per#3) or at another time up to a FC of 24 how long do I need to wait till I can use the tub? The test kit only measures up to 5 so I am assuing it is impossible to tell the difference between 6 and 24 with the test kit. Do I need to wait till the test kit shows <5? You really need to read Pool School. It covers this sort of thing, as well as teach you that the FAS-DPD test will measure FC up to 50. If you read the articles carefully you will learn the answers to questions you haven't even thought of yet! The link is in the upper right corner of this page
5 - My tub is usually covered unless I am in it. When I add chemicals to it should I leave it uncovered for a period of time or is this not necessary? Is it more imporatant for some chemicals like chlorine?If it stays covered, you won't lose much chlorine to ultraviolet light. However combined chlorine can build up - that smell you usually associate with public pools.
6 - Wanted to try adding borates to the tub and was going to go the easy route with Proteam Supreme Plus. To calc how much to add I thought that I read I could use the Pool Calculator set to boric acid. Is this correct? If it is correct and borates do not change over time, do I really need to buy another test for borates or would using the Pool Calculator and getting approximately 50 be good enough?

Thanks for any help. This site is great!
Click to expand...
My advice is to get a test kit, add enough plain stabilizer, get everything else in balance and then worry about optional things like borates. It's just one more variable you don't need to worry about yet.


My two cents
 
CH levels over 200 help prevent iron staining on fiberglass and also help insure that the gel coat (a surface treatment on the fiberglass) lasts as long as possible. Lower CH levels won't normally cause any immediate problems for fiberglass, but are likely to shorten the lifetime of the surface coating. CH levels around 250 do pose some very minor risks to the SWG, but this is almost never an issue unless you let the TA level get too high.
 
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