High TC no FC

azazel

0
Feb 3, 2011
37
Hi I got a 15k salt water indoor pool at my work that turn green over my days off. The t cell has just been replace and I dumped half of the water yesterday to get the salt in range for the t cell to work. I put four 12oz scoops of shock in the pool and ran super chlorinat over 20 hours now and I still don't have any free chlorine. But the total is like a ten. Do need keep adding more shock till I get some free chlorine showing? Thanks

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Welcome to the forum :lol:
How are you testing that TC? Is it a DPD test? Also, tell us what product you are using for "shock".

We can help you fix the pool pretty easily but need a little more testing information.

Can you test for CYA?

Posting results for:

FC
CC
TC
pH
TA
CYA

will really help us get a better picture of your water and get the green cleared up and keeping it away.
 
As Dave (the other Dave) said, it's not hard to fix it's just going to take some patience and some more shocking. Keep in mind that shock is a process not a product.

One of the problems with the kit you have is that it can only test to 5 ppm FC and in order to shock properly you're going to need to maintain 10 ppm FC until the FC loses no more than 1ppm overnight and the CC is 0.5ppm or lower. You can dilute the water sample by half with chlorine free water and multiply the results by 2 to give you a ballpark figure for your test. You can use the Pool Calculator to figure how much cal-hypo to add to get you to shock level.

You'll have to add chlorine as often as every hour until the FC starts holding. Since you're using Cal-Hypo to shock the pool it would also be a good idea to test the calcium hardness to make sure it doesn't get too high from the additions.

You'll have to turn off the SWCG in order to run the OCLT (Overnight Chlorine Loss test). You can find the procedure in Pool School.
 
Dumped 1/2 the pool? What was and what the salt level? What are you using to test the level with?

Are you using a DPD-FAS test for the chlorine?

Something is eating the FC, forming the CC. Close the pool until it can pass an overnight test. Keep the filter running.

Bring the FC to shocking level. Check it every 4 hours. Add Cal Hypo as needed. See the poolcalculator.com for amounts.

Scott
 
No I only have a Taylor complete kit. And im out of the chlorine test now. Using test 6 strips now. Going take some water to local pool store have it checked. My cya is at 80 now ph 7.4 ta 120 fc .5 maybe a 1 tc 3 th 300. Still don't think it holding any chlorine. I know I have used around 20 lbs of shockwave and I put three 3" stick in it to try keep chlorine in it over night cause about every four hours yesterday I would come check it and chlorine would be bottom out. So should I blast it with another 5 or 10 lbs of shock today? Im not sure if what little bit of fc I have this morning is holding or if its from the sticks last night and its just not had time to bottom out yet.

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Sooner or later, you will need to get an FAS/DPD chlorine test to accurately determine your FC and CC level. The strips are pretty useless for what you are trying to do.

Don't look to the pool store for precise help, either. Some are very good, most use pretty inaccurate testing, however.

Last, while it seems you still need to shock, I would suggest you do so with Clorox and not the cal hypo you have been using.

Take some time and start reading the basic articles in Pool School. What we advocate here on the forum is very accurate testing and having the knowledge to know and understand what to do with the test results.
 

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Indoor pool and 80 CYA = dumping a lot of water.
Strips suck.
Most Health Departments demand DPD-FAS checking.
Many restrict CYA in indoor commercial pools.
Di-chlor powder and Trichlor sticks/tabs both add CYA.
Cal-Hypo adds calcium.
Liquid only adds salt.

Scott
 
azazel said:
Im using taylors complete kit.

Fc 0
Tc 5+
Ta 120
Cya 10
Ph 7.6
Th. 300


Shockeave powder
Ch 68%


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In this post you list CYA at 10? is this a typo? I concur with Scott - for an indoor pool, a CYA of 80 is too high, it only needs to be about 20-30. And at this point, liquid chlorine a.k.a. Clorox is more suited to what you are trying to accomplish (and alot of it!)...
 
Yes it was type o. Update
I seem to be holding chlorine now. Just checked it with the strips I have and its show just as high as it was when I shocked this morning. And im in process of dumping water out to lower my cya now. I have couple hours left today to do some draining and refilling. I order Taylor k-2006 kit today.

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You can just order the FAS-DPD test instead of having to order the entire kit. You can get it from TFTestkits.net or from Taylor. You can also order CYA reagent and test the CYA your self to get an accurate result.
 
Just letting you guys know. The pool has finally cleared up minus all the powder left in it. Chlorines good everythings back to normal. Just going be cleaning the filters alot to get all the powder out. Guess I just had some funky stuff in the water that took alot of chlorine to clear it up. Thanks for all the help and advice. Can't wait get my new kit in.

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