just got my TF-100 and here are my #'s

[Guest]

ok i have a couple questions too, but they will be after my numbers

FC tf-100, is 11.5 (HIGH) FC-K1000-2-4, why is that
CC-0 (i presume good)
pH-7.5
T/A-160
CH-390
CYA-90
temp-82

why did i have a big difference in he FC test
i did it correctly both ways but it took with the tf-100 i put one drop in at a time and it took 23 drops and X.5 and got 11.5
i put 5 drops in with the k-1000 and my yellow looked 2-4, im confused here, other wise i know my numbers are messed up, can you tell me what they should be and how to get them that way. THANKS.

 

[JasonLion]

The OTO chlorine test (shades of yellow) in the K-1000 (and common in inexpensive chlorine test kits) is difficult to read when the chlorine level is high. I have found that below 3 I can read it consistantly, but above 3 it is open to plenty of interpretation. Having a very bright white background helps, I read it in front of a white shed in direct sunlight. Reading it against blue sky, as suggested in the manual, seems to make determining the higher levels more difficult compared to a bright white background. All of this is even more difficult when the chlorine level is around 10 or higher as it looks very slightly orange yet with the saturation of the yellow around 3. The full FAS-DPD test is far more reliable and consistant.

The OTO test is provided for speed and simplicity. If you practice a few times with both tests and chlorine levels around 3 to 5 you will start to get a better sense of how to read the shades and how they differ from what you are seeing with FC around 11. Actually with CYA of 90, the OTO test is going to be useless, you will always want FC well above 5.

CC of 0 is perfect. 0.5 or lower is fine. 1.0 or higher and you should shock the pool.

Your CYA is on the high side. 90 is the highest you ever want to go. Many people don't recommend anything above 80, though I believe that 90 is annoying but manageable. Unless you have extreme amounts of direct sunlight on the pool I would try to bring this down over time. I wouldn't rush to do it right away, just make sure not to add any more CYA (or use trichlor or dichlor) and let water replacement happen as it does anyway to bring it down over time.

Your TA is too high. I expect that your PH is going to drift up fairly quickly. Since you have a vinyl liner there isn't any rush to bring the TA down, but if you do have trouble with rising PH then it is probably worth bringing TA down right away. There is some risk of scaling if you let the PH go too high with TA and CH where they are. Bringing TA down will avoid any future issues.

 

[Guest]

am i going to die from swimming with the water like this, what do i need to do to get the numbers right. Thanks
RT

 

[JasonLion]

No, no dying.

Your pool is totaly fine as long as you keep adding acid and chlorine as needed. If you are closing soon you don't really need to do anything. If the pool will be open for a while yet I would lower the TA.

You lower TA by adding acid to bring the PH down to between 7.0 and 7.2. Then aerate the pool (using spa jets, a waterfall or fountain, kids playing, aiming a return up towards the surface so it breaks the surface and causes bubbles, an air compressor, etc). When the PH comes back up retest the TA and repeat as needed to get TA down to 120.

 

[JCJR]

When you used the TF100 did you measure 25ml or 10ml of pool water?
If you used 25ml each drop counts for .2 so 23drops x .2=4.6
If you used 1oml each drop counts for .5 so 23drops x .5 = 11.5

Most likely you have 4.5 FC

 

[duraleigh]

am i going to die from swimming with the water like this, what do i need to do to get the numbers right. Thanks
RT

RT,

What should you do? Take one issue at a time. Get your T/A down. No rush, but as Jason said, you'll probably experience a rising pH so go ahead and adjust T/A.

Next, work on reducing your CYA so you don't have to keep your FC so high. I personally think 30-50 is pretty easy to manage but you can do well if it's a little higher, too.

What you're doing is fine-tuning your pool to head off any future issues. Get everything nicely balanced and your numbers will all get very stable and all you'll need to do is keep chlorine in your pool.

Of course, if you should pass on under suspicious circumstances (i.e. swimming), the entire forum will disavow any knowledge of ever having known you!!

 

[Guest]

ok, wow i have never added acid, is there somting i can add other that strait acid, like somting from the BBB, method, i plan on having it open til late november so i will talk care of the water now, i filled the water with 10ml on the ONLY CLORINE tube thing. so it is 11.5. btw while were on this subject, has any body ever used the pool dome, im thinking of useing it to keep it open all year.

http://rontimco.com/poolpg.htm

 

[ivyleager]

There's dry acid PH down, or liquid muratic acid. Depends on what your comfort level is. I prefer the dry acid PH down myself, but other here and elsewhere use the liquid w/o problems, albeit with a lot more caution.

Hope this helps!

CaryB

 

[Guest]

ok, i replaced about 2000 gallons of water, some numbers got better some got worse.

FC- 10ppm
cc-0.5ppm
TC10.5ppm
pH-7.8
T/A-140
CH-290
CYA-100

i know i need to do more, how much acid do i add, i think im going to try the dry acid, is this at my local pool store? TIA

 

[duraleigh]

how much acid do i add,

Use the calculator Jason developed. It's in his sig in any of his posts. It'll tell you how much of anything you need to add. His calculator and a good test kit are essential ingredients in order to maintain your pool. Review the stickies concerning what each test means and what you use to modify your pool water chemistry.

Shortly, this will all be second nature if you'll do a little homework.