New build in Vail, AZ

[EJMAMMO]

So, not knowing about this site until our build was almost done, no changes were able to be made, however we are happy with the results. I would have changed a few things, knowing what I know now, like surface returns, and multi-pumps. I was under the impression we were getting intellibrite LEDs, but we ended up with "Pristine" brand LEDs. Are any of you guys in the business familiar with these? So anyway, I will try to post some pictures of our build. Thanks for looking.

Az Polar Bear Club, probably not the same when water is 57 degrees and outside temp 70, but cold none the less.

 

[Stevereno]

"Az Polar Bear Club, probably not the same when water is 57 degrees and outside temp 70, but cold none the less."

I know that's right! You won't catch me in the water at that temperature.

Nice looking pool!

That "soil" looks like jackjammer and explosives would be required to handle excavation.

 

[Guest]

Is that a floater I see in the pool

Very nice

 

[partypond]

looks good! What color/type of plaster did you use? I like the color of water.

 

[EJMAMMO]

Hey simicrintz,
Yes the pool company started it with that, until they get the salt started in 30 days, trust me, once they turn it over to me officially, I will be going BBB. Already stockpiling some Walmart bleach (whole 2 bottles) assuming it will need it on occasion. Sounds like here in this area, high PH is the constant battle. I will definetly have some questions on my balancing but will save for new thread.

 

[Guest]

I'd switch to the bleach if your CYA is already at 60 (or higher). Probably not close to that yet, unless they put too much in initially and the floater is adding to it. It's just hard to get rid of excess CYA, so I would rather see you not have to deal with that, if possible.

Very nice looking pool! You guys are going to have a great summer

 

[EJMAMMO]

Since we are talking about it, I will add in my numbers are per Leslie's test, got my TF-100 last night, so will run those tests tonight, but first numbers are:
FC-5+
PH 7.8 added 20oz this morning
TA120
CH 80 Leslie's said to watch this, apparently I have very low amount in tap water, should I be concerned with this yet?
CYA 45
Phospates? 100
I had asked the store if I should close up the floater some due to high number of FC, and CYA where it's at already. Do you all agree, or take it out completely?

Thanks again.
Jay

 

[EJMAMMO]

Partypond,
It is Blue Granite Pebble sheen, I think I got lucky and didn't experience the two weeks of green most people get with Blue Granite. I thought it was more grey if anything, but it is real clear, and the blue lights at night really make it look great.

Jay

 

[Guest]

Are you sure your CH is that low, Jay? Can you measure it yourself (I just don't trust Leslie's)?

If it is, I would suggest you get it up closer to 200. 75 starts to become aggressive water, and you are awfully close to that.

 

[Guest]

Oh yeah, and ditch the floater and get started on liquid chlorine (get rid of the pucks altogether).

 

[Shane1]

Great looking pool! Thanks for the pics.

 

[EJMAMMO]

So I did my initial test last night with the TF-100, just like playing with my chemistry set as a kid. I will post my results, but also have a few questions, to make sure I did it right. So here are the numbers, not far off leslies.
FC 6.5 Leslie said 5+
CC 1 Leslie ?
TC 7.5 Leslie 5+
PH 7.5 Leslie had 7.8, but I put in 20oz after that
T/A 90 Leslie 120
CH 90 Leslie 80

I pulled the floater out, since it has done what they wanted I think. I did not test CYA, because I think I have an issue with my CYA view tube, there is no black dot inside, but I will email tftestkits to sort that out.

So I would assume I should get after that calcium number, suggestions for the best distribution way, dissolve and add, or just broadcast?

Thanks Jay

 

[Bama Rambler]

That CC of 1 bothers me a little but several public water systems now use monochloramine so that would show up as CC in a new fill. Unless of course that was 1 drop and not 1ppm.

I always prefer to mix the calcuim in a 5 gal bucket of pool water and then pour it in the pool. With a new pool I wouldn't go crazy with adding any though. It's easy to add but very hard to remove.

Was your pool water hauled in or was it from an onsite source (fire hydrant, hose bib, etc)?

It would be a good idea to get an assay of your public water from your utility so you'd know what you will be adding to it each time you refill.

 

[EJMAMMO]

Thanks Bama,
So I am reading up on the proper testing methods, but using a speed stir, I put in 13 drops R-0871 to change the pink water to clear (where I got the 6.5), then I added the 5 drops of R-0003 it turned slightly pink, 2 drops of R-0871 turned it back to clear. That is were I got the 1 from. Does that sound right?

As far as my fill water, it is a very small local company, the well is less than a mile from my place, underground tank I guess, but there is a small shed and large propane type tank. I don't think they treat it much, probably some sort of injector on site. I had Leslies test my fill water, I will do the same this weekend. They showed NO FC or TC. PH was at 7.4 (near perfect?) TA 120, CH 80, TDS 50. So sounds like it is just well water? What's really nice is the whole fill should only cost me $40 because thay have a standing charge of 4.40 per 1000 gallons, no increase to volume like the city has.
Finally, I do have their last water quality report, it is from Dec 2009, I will have to check it out. I was hoping they will release one soon for Dec 2010. Will keep you posted as to what I find.

Jay

 

[Bama Rambler]

Your testing sounds right. When you get the latest report you'll know what they're adding and what's already there.