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Thread: Closing AG pool using cover where it freezes solid

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    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    Closing AG pool using cover where it freezes solid

    My procedure works for me, this is not the "law" on closing. We freeze solid here sometimes as early as October. I do not have a skimmer cover/Aquadoor seal so I do the "partial drain" process. I have a lot of trees that drop debris all winter so need a cover, pools out "in the clear" may not need any type of cover so would do this differently.

    When our water gets to the upper 50s, usually about mid September, we begin closing processes. First I remove my steps, clean, dry and cover with a tarp for the winter. I run my auto pool cleaner and remove any debris from the pool. The cove is gently brushed as well b/c the autocleaner (Lil Shark) does not climb the cove too well and I just want to get everything loosened up to get filtered out, bleached dead. I continue to run the pump on a 4 hr per day cycle for 2 days, then backwash well, then bring the pool up to shock level for at least 36 hrs with the pump running 4hrs per day so I know there are no nasties left in there. By this time, its usually cool enough that the chlorine holds really well, not too much grows in that colder water.

    Now with the pool still at shock level, I drain the pool down to at least 6-8" below the skimmer/return to allow for freeze expansion (the pool ice will go UP not out, unless there is something there to prevent it from doing so) I add 1 qt of Polyquat, stir/distribute well with a my leaf net/rake over entire pool (amounts of Polyquat are based on your pool size/water volume - check instructions) I do not use anything in the skimmer or in the return for the winter - The fittings are all removed from the hose/pipe sides and they are left open for the water to run/drop out so there is no place for the water to back up and become ice. My winter cover goes over the top of the skimmer and I do have the skimmer cover on. Any moisture that somehow runs from the pool to the skimmer would just drop out and not freeze in there.

    All hoses are removed, drained and stored away someplace where mice are not an issue (we have an empty sealed grain bin we keep all pool things in) Solar panels are removed from mounts, hung to drain fully (we tried blowing out with air instead one year and still had freeze damage - removing, draining and storing is safer and cheaper than replacing!)

    The solar blanket can be dried out and stored away, but ours is rolled up on our free-standing reel and tied down with a bungy cord, cranked around 1/4 turn twice a day so that the water all falls out. We then cover with a solid tarp and secure. We haven't had any problem with the cover cracking or being damaged in the spring when we open - you just have to be sure the moisture is out. The cranking thing does the trick. But then none of these covers last forever so they are bound to break down eventually.

    The pump is drained out, dried well with rags, all parts connections lubed up with silicone lube - small parts are placed inside the dried pump basket pot - larger parts into a zip lock gallon sized bag and duct taped to the side of the pump. Pump is brought inside and stored in a box together. The same goes for the Salt Water Chlorine Generator, dissemble, dry and store all parts together in a bag duct taped to the side of the unit, bring inside for winter. Inside does not necessarily have to mean heated, we keep those parts in an attached garage - secured from ice/snow and rodents.

    The filter is well drained, the drain plug left off and covered with a tarp - bungied on for the winter - left on its base. Do this well before a hard freeze so you can be sure all the water is out before it freezes. The multiport valve dried, parts lubed with silicone, stored in a bag taped to side of multiport, brought into the garage for the winter.

    We have always used a solid winter cover in the past, but hated the swamp on top. Some people install - put a pillow in the center and pump as moisture puddles onto it. We had begun to use an Arctic Armor MicroMesh Winter Cover - this is a solid black appearing cover that has a very fine/tight weave which is just loose enough to allow the moisture to fall through so that there is no liquid that accumulates on top. For all appearances, it is just like a solid cover but makes things easier if you do not want to pump rain or melted snow off in the spring. It does not use a pillow in the center, but lays on top of the water. You must still use a leaf net or remove leaves as they fall or they will accumulate on top and pull down and rot. Water/Snow does not pull it down in the center but seeps through so the only thing that can make it pull on the sides is a pile of wet leaves or debris. In the spring, there is no puddle or swamp on top, we just pull the cover off to crystal clear water with a tiny bit of silt at the bottom for the autocleaner to vac up.

    If you have a lot of debris falling, leaves, sticks, etc., you can put a leaf net on across the top initially, when the leaves are done or it gets a lot of leaves, we remove or empty the leaves and put back on until all leaves are done dropping. The leaf net is then pulled off and stored for the winter. The leaf net is also a handy thing when the pool is just opened if you have a lot of spring leaf debris - like cottonwood fluffy stuff or even a ton of Junebugs or something. Around that time, its warm enough to grow some algae so the pump must run, but too cool to swim yet.

    If anyone sees that we are missing something, feel free to chime in - this is only how we have done it and opened with crystal clear water in the spring.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

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    Marillion Fan's Avatar
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    Re: Closing AG pool using cover where it freezes solid

    Quote Originally Posted by NWMNMom
    My procedure works for me, this is not the "law" on closing. We freeze solid here sometimes as early as October. I do not have a skimmer cover/Aquadoor seal so I do the "partial drain" process. I have a lot of trees that drop debris all winter so need a cover, pools out "in the clear" may not need any type of cover so would do this differently.

    When our water gets to the upper 50s, usually about mid September, we begin closing processes. First I remove my steps, clean, dry and cover with a tarp for the winter. I run my auto pool cleaner and remove any debris from the pool. The cove is gently brushed as well b/c the autocleaner (Lil Shark) does not climb the cove too well and I just want to get everything loosened up to get filtered out, bleached dead. I continue to run the pump on a 4 hr per day cycle for 2 days, then backwash well, then bring the pool up to shock level for at least 36 hrs with the pump running 4hrs per day so I know there are no nasties left in there. By this time, its usually cool enough that the chlorine holds really well, not too much grows in that colder water.

    Now with the pool still at shock level, I drain the pool down to at least 6-8" below the skimmer/return to allow for freeze expansion (the pool ice will go UP not out, unless there is something there to prevent it from doing so) I add 1 qt of Polyquat, stir/distribute well with a my leaf net/rake over entire pool (amounts of Polyquat are based on your pool size/water volume - check instructions) I do not use anything in the skimmer or in the return for the winter - The fittings are all removed from the hose/pipe sides and they are left open for the water to run/drop out so there is no place for the water to back up and become ice. My winter cover goes over the top of the skimmer and I do have the skimmer cover on. Any moisture that somehow runs from the pool to the skimmer would just drop out and not freeze in there.

    All hoses are removed, drained and stored away someplace where mice are not an issue (we have an empty sealed grain bin we keep all pool things in) Solar panels are removed from mounts, hung to drain fully (we tried blowing out with air instead one year and still had freeze damage - removing, draining and storing is safer and cheaper than replacing!)

    The solar blanket can be dried out and stored away, but ours is rolled up on our free-standing reel and tied down with a bungy cord, cranked around 1/4 turn twice a day so that the water all falls out. We then cover with a solid tarp and secure. We haven't had any problem with the cover cracking or being damaged in the spring when we open - you just have to be sure the moisture is out. The cranking thing does the trick. But then none of these covers last forever so they are bound to break down eventually.

    The pump is drained out, dried well with rags, all parts connections lubed up with silicone lube - small parts are placed inside the dried pump basket pot - larger parts into a zip lock gallon sized bag and duct taped to the side of the pump. Pump is brought inside and stored in a box together. The same goes for the Salt Water Chlorine Generator, dissemble, dry and store all parts together in a bag duct taped to the side of the unit, bring inside for winter. Inside does not necessarily have to mean heated, we keep those parts in an attached garage - secured from ice/snow and rodents.

    The filter is well drained, the drain plug left off and covered with a tarp - bungied on for the winter - left on its base. Do this well before a hard freeze so you can be sure all the water is out before it freezes. The multiport valve dried, parts lubed with silicone, stored in a bag taped to side of multiport, brought into the garage for the winter.

    We have always used a solid winter cover in the past, but hated the swamp on top. Some people install - put a pillow in the center and pump as moisture puddles onto it. We had begun to use an Arctic Armor MicroMesh Winter Cover - this is a solid black appearing cover that has a very fine/tight weave which is just loose enough to allow the moisture to fall through so that there is no liquid that accumulates on top. For all appearances, it is just like a solid cover but makes things easier if you do not want to pump rain or melted snow off in the spring. It does not use a pillow in the center, but lays on top of the water. You must still use a leaf net or remove leaves as they fall or they will accumulate on top and pull down and rot. Water/Snow does not pull it down in the center but seeps through so the only thing that can make it pull on the sides is a pile of wet leaves or debris. In the spring, there is no puddle or swamp on top, we just pull the cover off to crystal clear water with a tiny bit of silt at the bottom for the autocleaner to vac up.

    If you have a lot of debris falling, leaves, sticks, etc., you can put a leaf net on across the top initially, when the leaves are done or it gets a lot of leaves, we remove or empty the leaves and put back on until all leaves are done dropping. The leaf net is then pulled off and stored for the winter. The leaf net is also a handy thing when the pool is just opened if you have a lot of spring leaf debris - like cottonwood fluffy stuff or even a ton of Junebugs or something. Around that time, its warm enough to grow some algae so the pump must run, but too cool to swim yet.

    If anyone sees that we are missing something, feel free to chime in - this is only how we have done it and opened with crystal clear water in the spring.
    That sounds about right to me.
    I do basically the same thing but I don't have the swg or the solar panels.
    Steps come out, water to shock level, vacuum, drain and cover.

    I also have a lot of maple, pine & oak trees that like to give me extra things to do in the fall and spring so it is a solid cover for me but I might have to look into one of these covers that let the water through.
    The pump and filter are brought into the garage which is heated(somewhat) so there is no problems with it freezing.

    I see a lot of filters that are left out during the winter and just have to wonder if they have any problems the next spring.
    The only thing I need help with after all that is getting the cover on the pool 18x33 not really a one person job.

    And of course I keep a few bleach bottle for tie downs god knows we all have enough of them.
    18x33 15700 Gal Oval Above Ground
    Ranger Sand Filter w/Praher Multi Port Valve
    A.O. Smith 1.5 hp Pump
    Confer E9120 Steps
    BBB And Sparkling Clean.

  3. Back To Top    #3
    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    We do leave our sand filter out in the winter, covered with the tarp. The trick is to be sure it is WELL DRAINED before it can freeze.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    So here's me, still skeptical and nervous about closing. I went and bought my new winter cover, last year's was done-in by poor quality and mother nature

    I read the "winter closing kit" the pool stealer sells, that I have used each of the last 6 seasons. I'm stunned at my own ignorance

    One of the kit components "winterizer" is 98% inert ingredients and the remainder doesn't even say what it is, or it was something I didn't recognize, which means I'm not going to use it, and no wonder my water contained something pink-purple last spring when I opened... The other component was ph stablizer or alk up, and my alk is already high so why would I add that?! The third component was algecide. Their cheapy store brand. I looked for polyquat and they don't stock it.

    Least I know I don't need the kit

    I plan to simply shock with bleach and add polyquat. Anyone know where I can buy?

    I feel like I just opened....I feel like I just found TFP....and here I'm turning off my heater and getting ready for snow....this sucks.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    Several places sell "kits" to close for the winter - but just making sure your ph is right, shocking with bleach and the polyquat will do the trick just fine. The 3Bs and a Q!

    I was actually lucky to find the PolyQuat at Lowes and Kmart, but you can actually purchase it much cheaper online at many of the dealers. Do a search for algaecide and compare them - ingredients must list "poly - something something", usually a very long list of items. There are many that have the copper based or ammonia based products, which we stay away from. Now is a great time as many have seasons end sales.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

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    gonefishin's Avatar
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    Thanks for the thread NWMNMom

    I just bought a mesh cover (and leaf net) this year. I try to wait until the water temp is below 60f and have alot of trees near the pool, so I definitely will need to use my new leaf net before I close. I certainly hope that everything goes well...becasue I HATED using that air pillow

    frustratedpoolmom...I see you found the thread This was certainly a fast pool season Can't wait until next year


    take care,
    dan
    21' Aqua-Leader AGP (10,200 gallons).
    Hayward cartridge filter and two speed pump.
    Aqua-Cal HeatWave 100k (HeatPump)
    Salt 3200ppm (in non-salt water pool)
    Borates 20ppm (slowly raising)
    Aqua-Rite SWG

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    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    We are doing the big "drain down" below the skimmer/return this weekend, pulling hoses, packing up the pump and SWG, and the winter cover is out ready for the pool. Panels are all stored away already. Night-night for the season. Can't wait for spring!!!
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

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    ktdave's Avatar
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    This is almost sad seeing all of you beginning to close your pools. I just got mine going, am I going to have anyone to talk too !
    11,000 gal. gunite w/midnight blue and white pearl PebbleTec
    Intelliflo 4x160 pump
    Intellichlor IC-20 SWG
    Pentair cartridge filter 420 sq. ft.
    Mastertemp 400K BTU heater
    Legend Platinum cleaner
    Pool School
    JasonLion's Pool Calculator
    TF Test Kits

  9. Back To Top    #9
    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    I'm not going anywhere - I'll stick around, even though I'll be experiencing "open pool envy" until spring.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

  10. Back To Top    #10
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktdave
    This is almost sad seeing all of you beginning to close your pools. I just got mine going, am I going to have anyone to talk too !
    I'm sure you'll have folks form CA and FL and of course down under to keep up the conversation. I'll visit from time to time because the number of posts will be so high I'll feel like I missed something if I don't stay on top of it,
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    divnkd101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktdave
    This is almost sad seeing all of you beginning to close your pools. I just got mine going, am I going to have anyone to talk too !
    Dave, don't worry because come Thanksgiving, you will be eating your Turkey while in the pool while others are in their turtle necks looking at their snow-covered pool. Of course the downfall to that is the Mosquitoes
    MIKE

    21K Inground Custom w/ Spa (Gunite/Plaster), SWCG, Hayward Northstar, Polaris 280, Hayward Color Logics, Jandy PS-8

  12. Back To Top    #12
    ktdave's Avatar
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    Well, I did say ALMOST!
    11,000 gal. gunite w/midnight blue and white pearl PebbleTec
    Intelliflo 4x160 pump
    Intellichlor IC-20 SWG
    Pentair cartridge filter 420 sq. ft.
    Mastertemp 400K BTU heater
    Legend Platinum cleaner
    Pool School
    JasonLion's Pool Calculator
    TF Test Kits

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    In the Industry

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    Quote Originally Posted by ktdave
    This is almost sad seeing all of you beginning to close your pools. I just got mine going, am I going to have anyone to talk too !
    I'll be around. Southern location AND an enclosed pool, hope to swim year-round! Haven't been here a full year yet, so I don't know how that will turn out. I expect I will at least be able to get in my pool well into November. . . December? We'll see!

    I won't be closing the pool, that's for sure!
    ~Jules~

    My pool: INDOOR 13x27 rectangular fiberglass, built ~2001, BBB, TA-60 sand filter, Hayward two speed pump (1 hp/0.33 hp), 3/4 hp booster pump for solar heater
    Taylor K-2006 test

  14. Back To Top    #14

    In the Industry

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    Quote Originally Posted by ktdave
    This is almost sad seeing all of you beginning to close your pools. I just got mine going, am I going to have anyone to talk too !
    I'll be around. Southern location AND an enclosed pool, hope to swim year-round! Haven't been here a full year yet, so I don't know how that will turn out. I expect I will at least be able to get in my pool well into November. . . December? We'll see!

    I won't be closing the pool, that's for sure!
    ~Jules~

    My pool: INDOOR 13x27 rectangular fiberglass, built ~2001, BBB, TA-60 sand filter, Hayward two speed pump (1 hp/0.33 hp), 3/4 hp booster pump for solar heater
    Taylor K-2006 test

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    Re: Closing AG pool using cover where it freezes solid

    I planned to do the exact same as you are describing--thanks to your advice earlier in the season -- but when I mentioned leaving the skimmer open to my pool installer (who is all for the BBB method and is actually the one who directed me to TFP) they said not to because as the water freezes and rises and flows out the skimmer it will freeze within the skimmer and crack it. they also mentioned that water draining out the skimmer, if it wasn't frozen solid, would drain down the side of the pool and cause problems along the base of the pool.

    what they are saying seems to make sense, but then again it's much colder where you live and you leave it open ugghhh...contradictions LOL have you ever had a problem with the water that leaks out of your skimmer?

    Quote Originally Posted by NWMNMom
    My procedure works for me, this is not the "law" on closing. We freeze solid here sometimes as early as October. I do not have a skimmer cover/Aquadoor seal so I do the "partial drain" process. I have a lot of trees that drop debris all winter so need a cover, pools out "in the clear" may not need any type of cover so would do this differently.

    When our water gets to the upper 50s, usually about mid September, we begin closing processes. First I remove my steps, clean, dry and cover with a tarp for the winter. I run my auto pool cleaner and remove any debris from the pool. The cove is gently brushed as well b/c the autocleaner (Lil Shark) does not climb the cove too well and I just want to get everything loosened up to get filtered out, bleached dead. I continue to run the pump on a 4 hr per day cycle for 2 days, then backwash well, then bring the pool up to shock level for at least 36 hrs with the pump running 4hrs per day so I know there are no nasties left in there. By this time, its usually cool enough that the chlorine holds really well, not too much grows in that colder water.

    Now with the pool still at shock level, I drain the pool down to at least 6-8" below the skimmer/return to allow for freeze expansion (the pool ice will go UP not out, unless there is something there to prevent it from doing so) I add 1 qt of Polyquat, stir/distribute well with a my leaf net/rake over entire pool (amounts of Polyquat are based on your pool size/water volume - check instructions) I do not use anything in the skimmer or in the return for the winter - The fittings are all removed from the hose/pipe sides and they are left open for the water to run/drop out so there is no place for the water to back up and become ice. My winter cover goes over the top of the skimmer and I do have the skimmer cover on. Any moisture that somehow runs from the pool to the skimmer would just drop out and not freeze in there.

    All hoses are removed, drained and stored away someplace where mice are not an issue (we have an empty sealed grain bin we keep all pool things in) Solar panels are removed from mounts, hung to drain fully (we tried blowing out with air instead one year and still had freeze damage - removing, draining and storing is safer and cheaper than replacing!)

    The solar blanket can be dried out and stored away, but ours is rolled up on our free-standing reel and tied down with a bungy cord, cranked around 1/4 turn twice a day so that the water all falls out. We then cover with a solid tarp and secure. We haven't had any problem with the cover cracking or being damaged in the spring when we open - you just have to be sure the moisture is out. The cranking thing does the trick. But then none of these covers last forever so they are bound to break down eventually.

    The pump is drained out, dried well with rags, all parts connections lubed up with silicone lube - small parts are placed inside the dried pump basket pot - larger parts into a zip lock gallon sized bag and duct taped to the side of the pump. Pump is brought inside and stored in a box together. The same goes for the Salt Water Chlorine Generator, dissemble, dry and store all parts together in a bag duct taped to the side of the unit, bring inside for winter. Inside does not necessarily have to mean heated, we keep those parts in an attached garage - secured from ice/snow and rodents.

    The filter is well drained, the drain plug left off and covered with a tarp - bungied on for the winter - left on its base. Do this well before a hard freeze so you can be sure all the water is out before it freezes. The multiport valve dried, parts lubed with silicone, stored in a bag taped to side of multiport, brought into the garage for the winter.

    We have always used a solid winter cover in the past, but hated the swamp on top. Some people install - put a pillow in the center and pump as moisture puddles onto it. We had begun to use an Arctic Armor MicroMesh Winter Cover - this is a solid black appearing cover that has a very fine/tight weave which is just loose enough to allow the moisture to fall through so that there is no liquid that accumulates on top. For all appearances, it is just like a solid cover but makes things easier if you do not want to pump rain or melted snow off in the spring. It does not use a pillow in the center, but lays on top of the water. You must still use a leaf net or remove leaves as they fall or they will accumulate on top and pull down and rot. Water/Snow does not pull it down in the center but seeps through so the only thing that can make it pull on the sides is a pile of wet leaves or debris. In the spring, there is no puddle or swamp on top, we just pull the cover off to crystal clear water with a tiny bit of silt at the bottom for the autocleaner to vac up.

    If you have a lot of debris falling, leaves, sticks, etc., you can put a leaf net on across the top initially, when the leaves are done or it gets a lot of leaves, we remove or empty the leaves and put back on until all leaves are done dropping. The leaf net is then pulled off and stored for the winter. The leaf net is also a handy thing when the pool is just opened if you have a lot of spring leaf debris - like cottonwood fluffy stuff or even a ton of Junebugs or something. Around that time, its warm enough to grow some algae so the pump must run, but too cool to swim yet.

    If anyone sees that we are missing something, feel free to chime in - this is only how we have done it and opened with crystal clear water in the spring.
    27' round AGP, 2hp 2speed pump & 150sf cartridge filter --taking a stab at BBB and eyeing all the cool gadgets available for pools ;)

  16. Back To Top    #16
    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    First off, the water is drained down below the skimmer so when it freezes, its below the skimmer. The skimmer cover is on and the winter cover is over the skimmer so nothing comes in from the top, it could only come in from inside the pool. If there happens to be some reason why there is liquid that adds up on top of the frozen pool water that goes up to and into the skimmer, the connections are all off the skimmer - it will run out the bottom - it can't stay in there and expand to crack the skimmer unless there is something to keep it there - like pipes, or gizmos, tennis balls or whatever. Its all open right to the ground.

    There is the difference - some people have their pools all hard/solid plumbed so there is either something to back up into or block it or whatever. Ours has no pipes or connections on after the skimmer so it just drops out.

    If we do get a lot of snow over the course of the winter and it "backs up" to the skimmer, when it starts to melt it just drops out the skimmer on to the ground.

    The difference here is plumbing left on I think.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

  17. Back To Top    #17
    NWMNMom's Avatar
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    Update on above post re: water running down the side of the pool and causing problems.

    This has never happened. My skimmer unit outlet sits far enough away from the pool that it causes no more problems than it does when it rains or snows. Its not running ON the pool side, it runs out the bottom of the skimmer assembly which is away from the pool by several inches at the very least.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

  18. Back To Top    #18
    AnnaK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Eastern Pennsylvania
    Posts
    1,132
    We pretty much use your method with some minor variations. No cover, for instance. We drain the water to below the lowest opening which, in our pool, is the light fitting. We don't put the weir in front of the skimmer but leave the skimmer basket in with the lid on top. All plumbing fittings are disconnected from the pool and valves on pipes are set in the 'open' position.

    Our pool is a solid block of ice by January.

    Drainage via overflow either through the open skimmer or the holes for lights and return has not been a problem. The skimmer itself is, by virtue of its construction, several inches away from the pool and located higher up on the pool wall. There's no drainage from it due to snow or rain because the lid is on. Rain and snow melt drain out of the light hole first.

    To avoid a mud spot or a lake or washout by water running down the side of the pool we fitted a section of flexible hose to the light hole, inserted the other end into a piece of wide PVC pipe and set that one inside a cinder block 18" away from the pool wall. The ground next to the pool has remained dry all winter - no problems whatsoever.

    In prior years we used to disconnect all pipes and tubing from pool and filter/pump but we no longer feel that's necessary as long as we drain what can be drained and open the valves on the pipes to give freezing water a place to expand to.

    AnnaK
    — AnnaK —

    12,000 gal AGP, Hayward sand filter, Pentair 2-speed pump, timer.
    Please visit our Pool Issues pages for information about step weights, managing the solar cover, and PoolSkim.

  19. Back To Top    #19

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    91

    pool closing for cold weather areas

    Pretty much the same here also. I do remove all hoses, so skimmer and return are open to ground. I don't take my filter (Meteor sand) or my pump in.
    I do pull the plug on the filter, remove the pressure gauge, the clear bubble thingy and leave it off, I take the pump basket and lid off and bring them in the house, along with the pressure gauge and thermometer.
    I turn my pump basket to the side so any water can drain out. I also don't remove the cover to the filter, I set it on winter and cover the top of the filter(multiport) with a black garbage bag and secure it good. I also cover the pump completely with a black garbage bag securing it good so it will not blow off or allow anything to get in there.
    We usually close the end of Sept. when the water drops below 65, so the filter and pump have a good month to drain well before we get solid freezing that lasts 24 hours.
    Mona SE MN
    24' round 48" high AG
    Meteor Sand Filter
    1.5 HP pump

  20. Back To Top    #20
    NWMNMom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Waaay NW MN
    Posts
    1,582

    Re: Closing AG pool using cover where it freezes solid

    Sorry, I have never taken pix when I closed. Something to consider I guess this coming fall.
    18x33x52 Buttressfree Seaspray (Wilbar) AGP - 1.5hp Pentair Maxim w/22" Pentair Meteor Sand Filter, Aqua Rite SWG System, Biltmore Walk In Steps - 2/4x20 Solar Panel Setup - Doheny Jet Drive (RIP -Pool Rover Jr) - finally hard plumbed the whole darned thing -
    Beats Driving to the Lake!

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