Jandy AquaLink w/ built in AquaPure Help!!

[PoolBoi]

Hello! I am a 27 year old pool service tech. I have been in the business for 5 years now. I'm pretty familiar with all the pool equipments except the Jandy AquaLinks with the built in AquaPure. I need some help resolving a problem I have encountered with a customers system. 

I got a call from my customer on Tuesday telling me that her equipment was turning on and off at random times. I went and and noticed the main panel would turn off and all the LED's would go on and off chasing each other. I couldn't take it out of Auto Mode. I hit the reset and flipped the circuit breaker on and off with out any success. I disconnected the spa side switch black plug from the main board in hopes the switch had gone bad. Still no success. I assume the board is bad. 

Here is my question. 
The customer has a rental home with the (I think) the same unit hooked up to a spa only. She has requested for me to pull the board off of the rental home spa and install it on her primary home that has a pool and spa combo. Is this possible? If so, does the programming remain the same or must I remove sone type of memory chips from the boards too?

Please help!! Thank You!!

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

I would be willing to bet the rental has a Pool Only system vs the Pool/Spa version at the homeowner's. IF the boards are the same but the PROMS with the s/w version are slightly different but the same size chip, you might be able to swap the proms. The programming will be lost.

Scott

 

[nglessner]

Sounds to me like a bad board, although I would only assume that only after confirming voltage from the transformer and disconnecting all other peripherals including relays.

The spa board will not work with the pool/spa system unless you are able to swap the chips. Jandy has changed the chips over the years and provided they are the same vintage/chipset this will work. The PCBs are the same between single body of water systems and dual body of water systems, it's only the chip and the bezel with the appropriate cutouts that change. You will need to identify the boards first to see if the chips are the same. The first chips in Aqualinks are for firmware rev A through I, these are 44pin chips. The second chips in Aqualinks are for firmware rev K to MMM, these are 52pin chips and are easily identified by a small "52" with a circle around it on the upper left face of the PCB (behind the metal faceplate). The current chips in Aqualinks are for firmware rev N or later. They are easily identified by dual green four pin terminals and the relocation of valve actuator plugs to the bottom of the board. All programming must be entered as if new once the chip is removed from the PCB, this includes labeling aux and spa remote. Good luck!

 

[Pool Clown]

I wouldn't pry any chips out, or swap any boards until you clear/reset the memory. I had a similar problem (the scrolling lights), with a customer and clearing the memory resolved the problem.

Turn off the breaker to the Aqualink.
Disconnect the back up battery.
Wait about 5 min +/-.
Hold in the reset button on the out door bezel.
While holding the reset button, turn the power back on.
continue to hold the button for 2 to 3 seconds, then release.
Reconnect back up battery, and check programming.

 

[PoolBoi]

So heres an update..

The rental had a pool/spa system. Same thing like the current home of the owner. I swapped out the boards, swapped out the chips and reprogrammed everything. The damaged board had water damage. Thanks for all the help! Now I have 4 whisperflow I need to replace seals on.