Intellichor Low Salt

[coog61]

I have a 16 month pool + Intellichor SWG. Last week it was showing low salt (1550 ppm) and so the system turned off (stops when salt <2500 ppm). I had run most of the summer in the upper 2,000's.
I had the water tested and the PS showed 2,200 ppm. I added one bag of salt and the system now reads 1950. So still no chlorine production.
Water temp is 65.
I cleaned the cell with the acid solution, but even before that the panels looked bright and shiny.
Is my cell already shot?

Thanks

 

[257WbyMag]

"Low Salt" readings from the SWCG unit tend to occur when the temperature of the water falls to the point where production of chlorine is hampered. It's typically a false reading.

With the temps going down, it is a good time to have some bleach on hand to supplement things. Once temps fall to a certain point, your cell won't generate FC anymore and you will need a manual source.

 

[coog61]

Thanks. I have a chlorine puck bypass system. I don't remember last winter that the SWG did not operate with water temp of 65. We are supposed to be near 80 in a few days, so I will keep an eye on this.

 

[257WbyMag]

Are you certain that your cell isn't producing anything?

 

[bk406]

I dont think there is anythig wrong with your IC-40. Mine starts to show decreasing salt levels when the water temp goes below 70. Is the 1950 ppm your seeing coming from the IC-40 box?

257,

When that red low salt light comes on, the IC-40 will not produce chlorine so I'm positive its off.

 

[coog61]

Are you certain that your cell isn't producing anything?

yes, 0 FC from test kit and PS test

 

[257WbyMag]

257,

When that red low salt light comes on, the IC-40 will not produce chlorine so I'm positive its off.

Copy that. Thanks!

 

[solarboy]

Is this true of all SWG, that they won't generate below certain temps? I was hoping to use one all year round and not close my pool, but I'm expecting the water temp to drop to 50-55 F.

 

[benavidescj]

Yes it is true that they will not produce below a certain temp, at least the IC40. I verified this with the manufacturer. They say that in the winter you just need to add some bleach. This is really not that big a deal since in the winter the chlorine decay is very low.

coog61, I notice that your reading of pool salt is 2200. I have an IC40 as well and the instructions state that the ideal salt level is 3400. When my SWG started saying low salt I just added more to compensate. I am now at 4000 ppm with my IC40 and do not have a low salt reading on the unit. What model number do you have?

 

[Pool Clown]

Do you also have a Pentair filter and filter pump? If so, the Ic 40 is still under warranty, and you should call Pentair. 65 is a little early for the unit to shut off, and these units have had problems with just this sort of problem. Shouldn't cost anything, and it's piece of mind.

Hold off on future chemical cleanings unless there is visible calcium on the plates.

 

[susa]

coog61 wrote:
> I have a chlorine puck bypass system.

just a caution on something I learned while reading TFP.

if the "pucks" contain cyanuric acid, you can overshoot your CY levels. best to use liquid bleach.

 

[coog61]

Yes it is true that they will not produce below a certain temp, at least the IC40. I verified this with the manufacturer. They say that in the winter you just need to add some bleach. This is really not that big a deal since in the winter the chlorine decay is very low.

coog61, I notice that your reading of pool salt is 2200. I have an IC40 as well and the instructions state that the ideal salt level is 3400. When my SWG started saying low salt I just added more to compensate. I am now at 4000 ppm with my IC40 and do not have a low salt reading on the unit. What model number do you have?

I also have the IC40. I will have the water tested today at the PS and get the salt up. I looks like there is a ~ 1,000 ppm differential between the PS results and IC40 reading.

My thought was to keep the salt on the low side since I'm having some flaking and salt staining on a few pieces of flagstone coping. I'm thinking if salt ppm is on the low side this could mitigate this issue. Any thoughts on this?

 

[coog61]

Do you also have a Pentair filter and filter pump? If so, the Ic 40 is still under warranty, and you should call Pentair. 65 is a little early for the unit to shut off, and these units have had problems with just this sort of problem. Shouldn't cost anything, and it's piece of mind.

Hold off on future chemical cleanings unless there is visible calcium on the plates.

Thanks. warranty is 3 yrs

 

[dmanb2b]

Just be careful to not over compensate If the actual salt level is higher than what the SWG sensor is reading, and you compensate to make the SWG happy, but in reality your Salt level is higher that what is being read by the SWG, once warmer temperatures return, you may end up having to do a partial drain to get your salt levels down. This is why we advise manual chlorine dosing in winter months, vs using the SWG. Plus FC demand is minimal when water temps are 60 degrees or below

 

[cadillac]

The variance is due to the water temperature. The cells are calibrated with 77 degree water since that is the optimum temp for testing salinity. Every 5 degree drop from there results in ~250 ppm difference. Doing the math results in your cell's reading being right on.

Related to salt levels, the cell is more effective with higher salt levels. Keeping the salt low results in the cell needing to be active more often.

 

[dmanb2b]

Related to salt levels, the cell is more effective with higher salt levels. Keeping the salt low results in the cell needing to be active more often.

Agree, as long as the salt level is not too high for the SWG to shut off, come spring.

Using your guidance...Let's assume an actual salt level of 3500 ppm @ 77 deg.

At 60 deg, losing a reading of 250ppm per 5 deg, you would need to add roughly 750ppm-1000ppm of salt to get back to having the SWG reading 3500 ppm. Once the water warms back up to 77 degrees, the salt reading would be above 4200 or the upper limit of the SWG. Again likely not a big deal given dilution will occur in the winter months. But if you overcompensate on the salt, you could be in for a surprise come spring.

 

[cadillac]

I agree, don't get the level too high.

On intellichlors at least, the cell will not stop due to salt levels being too high. Bad for the pool, but the cell won't stop.

 

[bk406]

Keeping the salt low results in the cell needing to be active more often.

Not sure I understand your thinking. Low salt will just shut it down. If the salt is above 2500 ppm, at least for the Pentair units, it makes chlorine. It will pull a little more power, but it will still make the max amount of chlorine when on. My understanding of other manufactures, that may not be the case.

 

[coog61]

Thanks everyone. Good stuff. PS test today showed 2800 ppm vs 1650 ppm from IC40. Water temp is 61F. I put in one bag of salt. Will use bleach method this winter.

 

[dmanb2b]

Keeping the salt low results in the cell needing to be active more often.

Not sure I understand your thinking. Low salt will just shut it down. If the salt is above 2500 ppm, at least for the Pentair units, it makes chlorine. It will pull a little more power, but it will still make the max amount of chlorine when on. My understanding of other manufactures, that may not be the case.

The way I read it it sounds like a cell will generate more chlorine at a higher salt concentration, I always wondered that myself, which I think makes sense, but I'll let Cadillac confirm