Would someone have a picture of Acid Pump setup ?

[susa]

Am considering adding automation for Muriatic Acid using an Acid Pump.

As the space is limited on my pad outside and since I am in the process of building a new enclosure for all the new gear (everything installed in last 30 days), would be interested in seeing a picture or two of how you route the lines from the Acid Pump into the system.

Am assuming many people here are using various types of automation feeders to maintain PH.

 

[mas985]

I don't use an acid pump but I do use a passive acid feeding system which is shown in this thread. Others have made a few modifications including using needle valves for flow control.

 

[susa]

Thanks, read entire thread.

I am leaning strongly toward purchase of SIMPOOL PH.

Will have to figure out the details, perhaps have a buddy in EU buy it and ship privately.

 

[mas985]

If your acid use is somewhat predictable, you may not need the controller part and could get away with a peristaltic pump on a timer. Ebay will sometimes have peristaltics for reasonable prices.

 

[solarboy]

[attachment=0:ai6g2nop]IMG_2996.jpg[/attachment:ai6g2nop]
There you go, I have this myself and have been very happy with it.

 

[teapot]

And the pipe is connected downstream of the filter into the return pipe with a saddle clamp and injector.

 

[susa]

could it be connected to the pump using the already existing small drain plugs by using a small adapter for icemaker from Home Depot ?

...or is there some "rule" that specifies they must be connected "after the filter" ?

I already have the IC40 Cell connected "after the filter".

 

[susa]

> There you go, I have this myself and have been very happy with it.

solarboy,
would you have an area view, showing all the bits on the pad, including where the lines come and go ?

thanks.

 

[solarboy]

[attachment=0:20mvp38w]IMG_0023.jpg[/attachment:20mvp38w]
I've circled in red the saddle bracket which is where the acid is injected and the sensor is placed (on the return line to the pool). The image shows the sensor removed and hanging off the yellow pumping unit as the pool has been drained for tiling.
I have the container of acid located behind the pump house rear wall outside, as in other installations I've noticed that the acid fumes cause corrosion in the pump area.

 

[susa]

Is the 220/230/240v electrical connection using two hot 120v and one ground, ie 3 wires for power ?

Is there any need to handle the sensor delicately, ie. does it require special cleaning, calibration, etc?

 

[teapot]

Thanks, read entire thread.

I am leaning strongly toward purchase of SIMPOOL PH.

Will have to figure out the details, perhaps have a buddy in EU buy it and ship privately.

Susa, you may be able to buy a seko version, the Seko pool basic PH which comes at as a complete kit.
In Europe our mains supply is 220-240v so we just have phase (live) nuetral and earth, not two 120v supplies.
Yes, probes need to be treated with care and should not be allowed to dry out so the plastic protection cups should be replaced when the probes are removed. Occasional cleaning and replacement is also needed.

 

[solarboy]

I'm sure a 220/240V to 110V transformer would be pretty easy to come by as it is only a 2 to 1 winding. The tip of the probe has a cap which is filled with water during storage. It came with some calibration solution but I just measured the pH in the pool and adjusted it until I was getting the correct pH.

 

[susa]

>I'm sure a 220/240V to 110V transformer would be pretty easy to come by as it is only a 2 to 1 winding

my entire pool equipment pad is wired 240v 60hZ as the existing equipment (in sigline) demands it. thus I envisioned the Simpool PH would be simple to hookup to already existing line.

I don't have 120v connection(s) at all outside.

 

[solarboy]

You'll be fine then.