UK kits distributor

wbryce

0
Oct 6, 2010
5
hello guys,

I have a hot tube but looking for a pool test kit to accurately maintain the water balance, Is there any decent ones you would recommend? So far I'm considering the Palintest SP315C to be the best bet but this is from my own limited knowledge.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

For those that can get it, the TFTestkits TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006 are the kits we recommend, but those are not available locally where you are (though you can get them shipped to you, but that costs). The closest reasonable kit in Europe and the U.K. is what you described, the Palintest SP 315C since it tests for FC, TC, pH, TA, CH, CYA mostly using drop-based tests for titration (for TA and CH). The only item that isn't ideal is the chlorine test which is DPD-based where you compare the color against a comparator. A FAS-DPD test where you count the drops is far better. The Palintest SP 300 FAS - DPD Kit is such a test kit, but may be available only in the U.S. -- you should ask Palintest if it is available in the U.K.
 
Thanks Chem Geek,

Since your name is a big give away, can I ask you a quick question on chemicals. I'm using stabalized chlorine granules and I read from a previous post about the dichlor/bleach methods. I consistently have troubles with my CYA levels. Twice in the previous 6 months my CYA has reached 300ppm on the test strips (reason i'm buying the Palintest kit to check this more accurately).

When I filled the hot tub the test strips showed the stabalizer (CYA) to be in the ideal range of 30ppm, but the guides on using dichlor indicate you use this until this level reaches 20ppm then you use bleach, the part i don't understand is my tub is already at 30ppm at the fill, but i suspect you will maybe tell me its something to do with the test strips?
 
I used to suggest 20 ppm for CYA in hot tubs when I saw a spate of rash/itch/lung incidents that were very loosely correlated with high CYA levels, mostly occurring after 1 and especially 2 months of Dichlor-only use. However, since that time, I have reconsidered and think I was being overly conservative so now I think that 30 ppm CYA is fine and provides a little more reduction in active chlorine levels so makes the chlorine less harsh on skin and hot tub covers.

So follow Using Chlorine in a Spa but initially use Dichlor until you get to around 30 ppm CYA and then switch to using bleach. Also, once a month, use Dichlor for one day since most hot tubs have the CYA drop by 5 ppm per month, probably from oxidation of CYA from chlorine at hot temperatures.

By the way, fill water has ZERO CYA in it so if your test strips read any CYA after a fill and before any Dichlor is used then they are absolutely, positively wrong! Test strips are often bad, but most especially with CYA -- I don't even know why the test strip manufacturers even bother to make such test strips for CYA since no one seems to have one that consistently reports anything close to the truth.

You can get by without even measuring the CYA since for every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm. It's more important to measure accurately in a pool as you don't change the water completely as you do in a spa.
 
chem geek said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

The Palintest SP 300 FAS - DPD Kit is such a test kit, but may be available only in the U.S. -- you should ask Palintest if it is available in the U.K.

Richard I have a number of Palintest FAS DPD kits in stock together with the Cyanuric acid turbidity tests and can testify that they kits are available in the UK.
 
teapot said:
Richard I have a number of Palintest FAS DPD kits in stock together with the Cyanuric acid turbidity tests and can testify that they kits are available in the UK.
Fantastic! That means we have something decent to recommend for the U.K. Do you have any idea whether it is available throughout Europe? Do you resell these kits and if so is there a website link so I can direct people to it when they ask?
 
Thanks guys,

Chem Geek, I was able to order the SP300 FAS/DPD kit from Palintest, it was £30 and the SP315C was £50 quid if I remember correctly. For anyone who is curious.

Last little question, I'm trying to find the correct bleach at my local supermarket, the one that caught my attention was Domestos, but not too sure if its fit for purpose: its ingredients are:

Disinfectant: Sodium Hypochlorite 4.8g per 100g , <5% Chlorine Based Bleaching Agent , Non-Ionic Surfactants , Soap , Perfume.

OR theres the cheap no frills one that says: amongst other ingredients: , Less than 5%: Chlorine Based Bleaching Agent , Disinfectant .

The first one having soap/pefume, i'm guessing this one isn't fit for purpose? what ingredients should i look out for/avoid?
 
You don't want soap or perfumes or "thickened" bleach. You want plain bleach, just sodium hypochlorite as high as you can get. There will also be sodium hydroxide (lye) though you want that to be low, and there will be salt and water though those are just called inert ingredients.

Looks like you can get liquid chlorine here in the U.K. in various concentrations though I'd be surprised if they can actually send this through the mail.
 
chem geek said:
You don't want soap or perfumes or "thickened" bleach. You want plain bleach, just sodium hypochlorite as high as you can get. There will also be sodium hydroxide (lye) though you want that to be low, and there will be salt and water though those are just called inert ingredients.

Looks like you can get liquid chlorine here in the U.K. in various concentrations though I'd be surprised if they can actually send this through the mail.

I tested the ordinary thin un-scented bleach <5% and the bottles were roughly 2.6% but were only £0.70/5litres
Larger containers of stronger sodium hypochlorite 20ltrs are available it is the transportation costs alledgly due to hazchem regulations that ups the price somewhat. still looking for a supplier who doesn't charge so much for shipping.
 

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