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Thread: Chlorinator O Rings - Routinely Replacing

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    Chlorinator O Rings - Routinely Replacing

    We have a Hayward Chlorinator and recently - almost every time we open and add tablets- the o ring needs replacing.
    Anyone know what may be causing this? Is the chlorinator going bad?
    We use the lubricant that we bought at the pool store when we replace.
    When we put the top back on the chlorinator - water leaks out the top
    When we open- the o ring looks stretched.

    Any suggestions? These o rings are expensive...
    Lucy
    40,000 gal. inground L shape
    Vinyl liner
    Hayward sand filter, variflow valve 710X62
    Hayward self priming 1.5hp pump,
    Hayward CL200 auto chlorinator

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    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    38
    I have a Hayward chlorinator as well. Every three to four years the O-ring gets stretched out from use and the only thing that I have found to fix it is to buy a new one. Use silicon lube on the o-ring every time that you take the lid off and be sure to break the "pressure seal" when opening the chlorinator. By "pressure seal" I mean that I open the cover over the pump basket to allow air into the system and this allows the lid of the chlorinator to remove much easier thus less wear and tear on the o-ring. I have found the o-rings on-line for $14.00 which is about half what my pool store wanted. Good luck.


    Bruce

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    Bruce,

    I never thought to break the pressure seal- I always drag my hubby out to open for me when it is really hot.
    Now I see, not such a great idea, it sure will make him happy.
    I also like the idea of adding silicone lube frequently rather than just when changing the oring.

    Thanks.
    Lucy
    40,000 gal. inground L shape
    Vinyl liner
    Hayward sand filter, variflow valve 710X62
    Hayward self priming 1.5hp pump,
    Hayward CL200 auto chlorinator

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    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Coastalish 'down easter'
    Posts
    4,160
    You've got the CL 200 series chlorinator (CL 220 if it's 'off line') The ring you are refering to is CL 200-K. Next time you replace one, look at the seat it sits in and also the sealing area inside the canister - you may find that either of these areas looks ~'calcified' -- bumpy. If you find that, use a screwdriver or razor knife to scrape it back down to smooth. Use a teflon or silicon based lube on the new ring -- when lubing the ring DO NOT PULL ON IT! rub the lube in without stretching it!!

    If you still need to replace the o-ring too frequently, pick up the lid o-ring for a Pro-Series pump (SP 1500 - ?) - it is almost exactly the same size and costs ~ 1/3 -- as it's not exactly the same, they fail earlier, but if you're replacing these things every few weeks anyway, save some $
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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