Compool 3400 to EasyTouch Upgrade

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Sep 13, 2010
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My (very old) Pentair UltraFlow pump died a few days ago. My automation system is a Compool 3400. I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade the pump to an Intelliflo VS-3050, and also bought the Compool to Easytouch upgrade system with 1 new hard-wired panel. A have a few assumptions I was hoping you brainiacs could verify, and also a few questions. Thanks in advance for your advice!

1. The VS-3050 manual recommends direct-wire to circuit breaker. The Compool setup has the pump wired to a high-voltage relay (breaker to relay; relay to pump). I'm assuming I can bypass the relay with the EasyTouch and go right to the pump, then connect the pump controller cable to the EasyTouch panel for control of on/off & speeds. Yes?

2. The existing setup has a water-temp sensor, and I now have a new sensor with the new equipment. Can I just use the old/installed one (Compool standard issue), or must I use the new one with the EasyTouch? (I don't want to assume the hole in the return-line is the same size for both, and want to minimize the PVC cutting and replacing.)

3. I have a spa-side wired-remote (4 push-switches) with the Compool, 1 switch each for pump, heat boost, lights & air-blower. It's 6-wire, which is what the EasyTouch calls for as well - anyone know if I can re-use the existing remote, or is it not compatible with ET?

4. Everything with the existing install is glued PVC - no unions at all. I can cut-out and do all new with glue, or take the opportunity to put in a couple of unions - but I also don't want anything to leak. Any opinions on unions in general? Do I need to use a lubricant on the union gaskets (as with the pump-strainer and DE filter O-rings?

5. Seems the old Compool remote (wired) panel and new EasyTouch panel should be plug & play with the existing modular (6-conductor) cable and connector. True?

And finally, any other experience-based advice? You guys always have tons of relevant info, and I'm anxious to learn BEFORE I make a series of mistakes!
 
1) Yes

2) No, the probes are different. The hole should be a 3/8". If it's a 1/4", drill it larger. No biggie. Really.

3) No, The spa sides are different.

4) I don't remember if there is a height difference. If the pump's suction port is higher, you may, if possible, lower the pad or ankle the suction lines and replumb. Hope you don't have a flooded suction. Fit flush unions. measure twice and cut once. They won't leak if you keep lateral tension off and don't connect too short a piece of pipe. No lube required. The faces of the union are locked and don't move. No lube needed. Hayward unions are pretty compact. All unions, I have found, try to push off the pipe when gluing. Remember to hold the pipe tight.

5) The ET Indoor remote is wired to a terminal block. No connector. 4 light gauge wires. Using the existing wires is how it's done.

Scott
 
Thx Scott!

I successfully got everything installed yesterday - no leaks! I left the spa-side remote in place (I didn't order a new one when I got all the other stuff), so I didn't wire it at the panel - no big deal. (I'll have to figure out how to get the old one off, and a new one in place - I think the old one is glued to a PVC riser that was likely cut flush.)

Now on to programming. Reading the "documentation", it's like the writer either never worked with pools or spoke english (or maybe both!).

I have 3 valve actuators (intake, return, and cleaner (old Ray-Vac)). They're hooked to the board as intake, return & aux valve "A". I also have a the spa air-blower and lights hooked to aux 1 & aux 2, respectively. Both use an electrical relay's.

Old panel had discrete buttons set up for spa, pool, cleaner, blower, lights, & a spare. Setting up the new-one, it looks like the "up" arrow is for "pool", then spa is dedicated, then I have buttons I can set as aux1-7. I'm assuming (if I can figure out this "circuit" & "feature" terminology, that I can set up each of the aux buttons as before, and maybe even have a few combo functions assigned to a single button? So, for example, maybe I want the "pool" button (up-arrow) to run the pool filter at a lower pump speed (say 1000 RPM), could I set one of the aux buttons as pool-high, say at 3100 RPM?

Thx in advance again. I'm off to search TFP for some other ideas too - can't be the only one with an EasyTouch, and I'm sure EVERYONE who installs one would have a ton of questions first go-round.

Mark
 
Hi Mark, not sure if you ever got this figured out but I have EXACTLY the same situation as you. I am replacing with a intelliflo vs, don't have a compool 3400 to easytouch upgrade bought yet, but was wondering if you got everything to work. My biggest requirements are for the spaside remote to work, me being able to turn the VS pump to higher speed when I turn the spa mode on, and of course operate the blower from both inside and spaside. Did you have to replace the indoor display panel (3400) when you did the upgrade, how difficult was it to upgrade? I have the same valves as you, same situation with freeze control, etc.. Is there any way I could use the relays on my existing LX/Compool 400? Thanks very much for any information you can provide, I"ve searched the entire web and your situation is exactly what I'm encountering. I have a pentair heater too. Mil
 
milrshah said:
Hi Mark, not sure if you ever got this figured out but I have EXACTLY the same situation as you. I am replacing with a intelliflo vs, don't have a compool 3400 to easytouch upgrade bought yet, but was wondering if you got everything to work. My biggest requirements are for the spaside remote to work, me being able to turn the VS pump to higher speed when I turn the spa mode on, and of course operate the blower from both inside and spaside. Did you have to replace the indoor display panel (3400) when you did the upgrade, how difficult was it to upgrade? I have the same valves as you, same situation with freeze control, etc.. Is there any way I could use the relays on my existing LX/Compool 400? Thanks very much for any information you can provide, I"ve searched the entire web and your situation is exactly what I'm encountering. I have a pentair heater too. Mil
Click to expand...
Hi Mil,

Did you do the install? If so can you answer your previous questions? I'm considering the same upgrade. Thanks
 
grey1988 said:
Hi Mil,

Did you do the install? If so can you answer your previous questions? I'm considering the same upgrade. Thanks
Click to expand...

I did the same install a couple of years ago, old system was an ancient LX10 TimeMaster vintage 1992. My install went very smooth. At the time I stayed with my 2 HP single speed pump, but saw the error of my ways here on this forum and got a Pentair VS 11018 Pump. I also traded my very old, non functioning Raypak 2100 for a new Raypak 407A low nox heater ( so cal requirement), also traded my old Sytem 3 filter for a Pentair Quad 60 filter.

I was able to use the old Compool enclosure and exising relays for everyting, including Stenner pump, three Intellibrite lights and a walkway light. The old Compool enclosure did not have enough available relays, so I added a side enclosure to house 3 more. I also added a Surge Protector installed right at my enclosure to protect my ET, Heater and VS pump.

You have the normal two actuators for pool/spa control, plus two more (A and B) ports. I use one to control wheather my heater is partially bypassed or not when heating the pool.


Considering everything, the Compool to ET upgrade was by far the easiest path, and eliminated digging out and replacing a whole lot of underground wiring.

The upgrade ET panel has all the functionality of a new ET 8 panel, minus a new elclosure, new style relays and optional SWG power supply.

Go for it.

I would not even consider the ET without the ScreenLogic addition. It makes proramming 10 times easier than trying to do it from the ET panel. Sunplay.com has the Screenlogic, with the wireless option for 360 bucks, well worth it IMHO.
 
gary300 said:
I did the same install a couple of years ago, old system was an ancient LX10 TimeMaster vintage 1992. My install went very smooth. At the time I stayed with my 2 HP single speed pump, but saw the error of my ways here on this forum and got a Pentair VS 11018 Pump. I also traded my very old, non functioning Raypak 2100 for a new Raypak 407A low nox heater ( so cal requirement), also traded my old Sytem 3 filter for a Pentair Quad 60 filter.

I was able to use the old Compool enclosure and exising relays for everyting, including Stenner pump, three Intellibrite lights and a walkway light. The old Compool enclosure did not have enough available relays, so I added a side enclosure to house 3 more. I also added a Surge Protector installed right at my enclosure to protect my ET, Heater and VS pump.

You have the normal two actuators for pool/spa control, plus two more (A and B) ports. I use one to control wheather my heater is partially bypassed or not when heating the pool.


Considering everything, the Compool to ET upgrade was by far the easiest path, and eliminated digging out and replacing a whole lot of underground wiring.

The upgrade ET panel has all the functionality of a new ET 8 panel, minus a new elclosure, new style relays and optional SWG power supply.

Go for it.

I would not even consider the ET without the ScreenLogic addition. It makes proramming 10 times easier than trying to do it from the ET panel. Sunplay.com has the Screenlogic, with the wireless option for 360 bucks, well worth it IMHO.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the update Gary,

Today I purchased the upgrade and screen logic. The only concern I have is doing the update yourself means a 2 month warranty vs 1 year with installer. It seems like you did just fine without the warranty so maybe I'll consider. Installer wants 300.00 to do installation and programming I have to decide if not having to do the upgrade and extra 10 months plus another year from my credit card is worth it. Anyone else chime in on reliability of these 2 upgrades?
 
grey1988 said:
Thanks for the update Gary,

Today I purchased the upgrade and screen logic. The only concern I have is doing the update yourself means a 2 month warranty vs 1 year with installer. It seems like you did just fine without the warranty so maybe I'll consider. Installer wants 300.00 to do installation and programming I have to decide if not having to do the upgrade and extra 10 months plus another year from my credit card is worth it. Anyone else chime in on reliability of these 2 upgrades?
Click to expand...

The only reliability issue I have had is with the Protocol Adapter part of the Screenlogic package. I have two of them fail within the first two years. In each case Pentair sent a new one overnight with no need to return the old unit. They seemed to have fixed the problem because the last one they sent have lasted over two years now with no problem.

Never had any problem with the ET panel.

Programming, especially with the ScreenLogic is a cinch. Might take you an hour to figure it all out.

The hardware installation is straight forward. I had to replace the power transformer in my Compool enclosure, which was easy. Then you just take off all the connections from your old Compool circuit board, remove it and replace with the new ET board and reconnect the connectors. All the old connectors were compatible with the new board so I did not have to change anything.

Good luck!
 
gary300 said:
The only reliability issue I have had is with the Protocol Adapter part of the Screenlogic package. I have two of them fail within the first two years. In each case Pentair sent a new one overnight with no need to return the old unit. They seemed to have fixed the problem because the last one they sent have lasted over two years now with no problem.

Never had any problem with the ET panel.

Programming, especially with the ScreenLogic is a cinch. Might take you an hour to figure it all out.

The hardware installation is straight forward. I had to replace the power transformer in my Compool enclosure, which was easy. Then you just take off all the connections from your old Compool circuit board, remove it and replace with the new ET board and reconnect the connectors. All the old connectors were compatible with the new board so I did not have to change anything.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
Gary and anyone one else. I'm stuck on how to connect the spa connector on easy upgrade. I have the upgrade almost done. I do have a question. On my old unit the spa connector was a wire connected from spa to aux valve control but this new panel does not have that aux valve control. Do you have any idea how I would connect it on the new board? Thanks.
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Grey,

Follow the little wires on the 2 pin plug and see where they go.. My guess is one of your relays and see if you can figure out what that relay does or controls.

The manual states... "The system ships with the jumper connected between AUX VLV CNTRL and SOL PUMP". Do you have solar?

If all else fails, wire up everything but that one connector and see what's not working... :p

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Grey,

Follow the little wires on the 2 pin plug and see where they go.. My guess is one of your relays and see if you can figure out what that relay does or controls.

The manual states... "The system ships with the jumper connected between AUX VLV CNTRL and SOL PUMP". Do you have solar?

If all else fails, wire up everything but that one connector and see what's not working... [emoji14]

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your help Jim and Gary. Everything seems to work fine.
 
Yes,

You need to make sure that you have added a speed that you want when in the Spa mode...

See below... for what it looks like for me in ScreenLogic...

dbtgallery.php


If I had a Spa, there would be another line with Spa... XXXXX rpm.

If you do not have ScreenLogic, you can get the same info with the following at the main control panel

Menu, IntelliFlo, Pump #1, Speeds... You'll then see 1/8 which is the first speed.. For me this is POOL - 1200 RPM

Then move to 2/8 which when the picture was taken was Feature 1, 1400 rpm
Then move to 3/8 etc...
One of them needs to say SPA and the speed you want.. If none say Spa, then set up the first blank one to read SPA and whatever speed you want.

If you don't have ScreenLogic, you are missing the whole reason to have automation... :p

Jim R.
 
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