New Test Kit Reading off the chart

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T

thagemoser

0
Aug 8, 2007
6
Southwest
Just tested pool with new TF-100 kit from Dave
I am scared or confused!

Chlorine Drop 60 drops of reagent - solution never turned pink after R-870.Stayed yellow. No change after 60 drops of R-871.

T/A After 30 drops R-009 no color change.

CH After 25 drops R-0012 did not change to blue

CYA 100+ or more

Either I am an idiot or this pool ( clear and sparkling) but with stain or etching in the bottom and sides) is really in trouble.

PLEASE HELP




Pool
15,600 gal
FNS DE filter
@ hp Hayward pump
Jacuzzi
 
Chlorine - It shouldn't have been yellow, it should have been clear to start. Did you try to combine the Taylor OTO test with the full FAS-DPD weekly test? If the water starts clear and doesn't turn pink after adding R-0870 then add another scoop of R-0870. If it still doesn't turn pink then try the quick Taylor OTO test that comes in the Taylor box inside the TF-100. If that doesn't turn yellow then you don't have any chlorine in the pool. Do not proceed to the R-0871 unless the water is pink.

TA - what color was the water after adding R-0008? Assuming it turned green then you need to keep going on the drops. If it turned red right away then you don't have any TA.

CH - Keep going on R-0012. Levels above 250 wouldn't surprise me at all.

CYA - Try diluting the water one to one with tap water and do the CYA test again with that and multiply the result by two. Levels over 100 are common in pools that have been using trichlor pucks or dichlor granules for chlorine.

It sounds like you are going to need to replace some water. Before you do that try to get all of the tests to work and also test your fill water. Testing the fill water will give you more experience with the test kit and the numbers are less likely to be extreme (though that is possible).

You might want to read my alternate directions for doing the TA and CH tests so that each drop counts as 25, instead of 10. Testing high levels will go much more quickly that way.
 
Well, searching hard for some good news, it appears the pH test went well!! :lol: :lol:

More good news....your water is clear!!

I'm real single minded so let's take 'em one at a time....chlorine first

Review the test procedures and make sure you're on the right track
Stayed yellow.
Click to expand...
I'm confused by that statement. the FAS/DPD test starts with 10 ml of clear pool water. How did you get to yellow?

Let's solve that one first and then move on to the others....you may not be as "out of whack" as it appears initially.

PS - the "idiot" thing is not possible....no kit purchaser has ever been anything but charming, intelligent, good-looking, and with EXCELLENT judgement! :roll: :roll:
 
:( Took advice and tried two tests only to limit the confusion (On my part)

You are correct the pH test is good 7.1

Chlorine
FAS/DPD
10 ml clear sample
1 scoop R0870 turns pink
60 drops R0871 still pink


OTO Quick Test
Clear sample
5 drops R-0600 Result is Pumkin Orange

TA
Clear sample
2 drops R0007
5 drops R0008 turns geenish blue
15 drops R0009 turns to light yellow
Additional 63 drops shows no change to red or pink. Remains light yellow

Pool
15,600 gal
Inground concrete or gunite
FNS DE filter
2 HP Hayward Pump
Jacuzzi
7 yrs old
 
At high chlorine levels, the TA test goes from blue to yellow instead of from green to red so your TA is 150 ppm. It certainly appears that you have very high Free Chlorine (FC) of at least 30 ppm. If your pool is exposed to sunlight, then that's the fastest way to reduce the chlorine level. The very high CYA level is protecting your chlorine from sunlight, slowing down its breakdown. You certainly do not need to add any more chlorine to the pool at this point.

However, you still need to check your CYA level via dilution (try 1 part filtered water with 1 part pool water, then multiply the result by 2, unless it's still over 100 in which case dilute more then next time, etc.). With the very high CYA, you will have to do a partial drain/refill to lower it. And definitely no longer use Trichlor or Dichlor for chlorine as that just increases CYA.

Assuming your CYA is over 100, I wouldn't let the chlorine level drop below 15 ppm or you could risk getting algae (if the CYA is 200, for example).

Richard
 
thagemoser,

Just reinforcing what Richard has posted, it appears your chlorine is quite high....30+. The FAS/DPD test is accurate above 30 so you could continue to add 871 drops to find out exactly how much FC you really have. If you wish to conserve the 871, you could use only 5ml of pool water and multiply the results X 1 instead of .5.

The OTO quick test is really only good to 5ppm and will be of little value in your pool. Your high CYA requires you to use the FAS/DPD test for chlorine as it will constantly need to be greater than 5ppm

Somehow, throught this Summer, I never noticed the I failed to mention the blue to yellow transition for the Alk test when you have high FC. Starting tomorrow, all kits will have that in the directions and hopefully prevent some confusion. My apologies for leaving off this important caveat.

At some point, I encourage you to reduce your CYA to a manageable level. around 30-50 for your pool.

As Jason said, CH at 250 would be in the ideal range of 200-400
 
Followed recomendation and tested for CYA using the dilution method.

1:1 Still no reading more than 100

1:3 Reading at exactly 100. Thinks this mean 300 CYA

Draining water as we speak. Won't drain more than a foot and will check tomorrow.

Appear that after 7 years of pucks this pool has enough CYA.
 
Appear that after 7 years of pucks this pool has enough CYA.
Click to expand...
Well, looking for the bright side, you will at least be nominated for the understatement of the year!! :lol: :lol:

Sounds like you've got a plan to tackle that CYA. Lowering just a foot is gonna' take a bunch of drains. I think I would set my target CYA for next Spring. You'll have all winter to keep lowering and should be able to open to manageable pool water. You'll be able to let your Chlorine go down quite a bit once your water starts to get in the 60's this fall.
 
9/11/07
Have not added anything to the pool since our last communication. Quick check today on CL and pH.

CL still above 10.
Ph at 8.2. Added 1.2# Sodium Bisulfate to lower pH. Will check again tomorrow. From a acid scrubber I control at work this seems logical. High pH and correct with sodium hydroxide drives the hypochlorite (ORP readings) higher. I expect the chlorine readings to be higher tomorrow.

Right?
 

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Checked chemistry last evening. Following results

pH 7.6
FC 14
CC .5
TC 14.5
TA 130
CH Couldn't get a reading
CYA 200

Noticed that over the last 5 days lost about 7 points off the FC. Have had cover on during the five day span. Thought something might be going on so add 1.5# of acid. When I was adding I pulled back the cover and found a dead (and really smelly) dead bird. Could this account for the rapid chlorine drop? Just in case I added 174 oz. of 6% bleach. Will check tonight for chlorine levels.
 
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