I am glad your making progress on clearing your pool. If you have the time check it each hour and bring it back to 30 per the Pool Calculator all day today. The white cloudiness indicates to me you have killed off a lot of the algae, but the drop of 5 overnight indicates you still have a way to go. If you can't check it every hour do so as often as you can. If you can hit it hard you probably have only a day or two left of shocking. The more you can keep it at shock level the faster the process goes.
bleach, pool calculator, and one drop at a time...
- Thread starter slawton
- Start date
Worked hard at it all day today, testing every 2 hours, then every 3...
Almost every time I tested I was down about 3-5 from FC 30...
Water still cloudy as I put it to bed for another night.
Still wondering about the metals...anyone out there know if I can add a sequesterant while shocking?
I just can't imagine this water is ever going to sparkle after today or by the time it does, it will be autumn in Michigan!
My kids are bummed.
Almost every time I tested I was down about 3-5 from FC 30...
Water still cloudy as I put it to bed for another night.
Still wondering about the metals...anyone out there know if I can add a sequesterant while shocking?
I just can't imagine this water is ever going to sparkle after today or by the time it does, it will be autumn in Michigan!
My kids are bummed.
Wondering why it is not responding better. Could there be something in the bottom of the pool that is organic? If you haven't done so already, I would suggest you vacuum the pool to waste. If you have leaves down there get them out. Then shock it again hard tomorrow. We are going to get this pool sparkling. I bet your kids are not the only one that is bummed about how long it is taking. In the morning post complete test results and maybe something will show up.
Thanks for the encouragement. You have been really helpful!
There is really nothing on the bottom of the pool. It's only 4.5 (ish) feet deep and I can see the bottom. I will vacuum to waste today when I get a chance. Haven't done that yet but there aren't any leaves for sure.
I am glad you suggested doing a complete test though. I know shocking can effect your numbers and it seems mine has:
FC = 26.5 (down from 30 after dark last night)
CC = .5-1.0 (it was hard to decide which was right, but I think there was still a hint of pink after the first drop. This is higher than it has been the last few tests, which were always 0 or .5)
TC = 27-27.5
pH = 8.2 (isn't normally this high)
T/A =110 (this is typical for my pool)
CH =110
CYA = 90 (THIS IS HIGHER THAN EXPECTED....BEFORE SHOCKING, IT WAS TESTING AT 80).
So, I wonder if using my chart above I should actually be shocking for an FC of 34 instead of 30...? Hmmm....
Also, do I leave the pH for now until the shock is over or add the acid now (according to the Pool Calculator?)
I will say the pool looks a tad more clear this morning, but still overall a white cloudiness.
I have to run to the post office, so I am going to second guess Tmax and go for FC of 34 this morning. I'm guessing you would agree with me...Bring on the bleach!
There is really nothing on the bottom of the pool. It's only 4.5 (ish) feet deep and I can see the bottom. I will vacuum to waste today when I get a chance. Haven't done that yet but there aren't any leaves for sure.
I am glad you suggested doing a complete test though. I know shocking can effect your numbers and it seems mine has:
FC = 26.5 (down from 30 after dark last night)
CC = .5-1.0 (it was hard to decide which was right, but I think there was still a hint of pink after the first drop. This is higher than it has been the last few tests, which were always 0 or .5)
TC = 27-27.5
pH = 8.2 (isn't normally this high)
T/A =110 (this is typical for my pool)
CH =110
CYA = 90 (THIS IS HIGHER THAN EXPECTED....BEFORE SHOCKING, IT WAS TESTING AT 80).
So, I wonder if using my chart above I should actually be shocking for an FC of 34 instead of 30...? Hmmm....
Also, do I leave the pH for now until the shock is over or add the acid now (according to the Pool Calculator?)
I will say the pool looks a tad more clear this morning, but still overall a white cloudiness.
I have to run to the post office, so I am going to second guess Tmax and go for FC of 34 this morning. I'm guessing you would agree with me...Bring on the bleach!
Maybe some of the others will comment on your numbers, but for what it is worth here are my comments. I would consider some drain and replacement to lower the CYA back to the 70-80 range. I don't think it hurts to go to an FC of 34, but in the long run you are going to want to get your CYA back in range so might as well work on it now. Just don't go below 70. If you overshoot you will want to raise it again. The Pool Calculator can tell you what percentage you need to replace. What I do in a constant depth pool is calculate how many inches that percentage is of my water depth and try to drain and replace that amount. Vacuuming to waste will take care of some if not all of the draining. I would add a little MA, but PH will rise with shocking and then go back down when you are able to let the Chlorine level go down. My kit will not test above 8.2 unless I dilute with distilled water. If yours is the same you may want to dilute your pool water and then test and multiply by the dilution ratio just to make sure your not over 8.2. I would add enough acid to bring it back to 8 while shocking. Some of the others on the board may have a different opinion on this. Since your pool is vinyl you do not have to worry about the CH level and I would not worry about the TA at this point. After the pool is clear I would try to lower the TA to keep the upward pressure off PH. I also noted you loss less FC last night than you did the night before. I really think your almost there. I am sure your running the pump 24/7 and are brushing occasionally to be sure you have good circulation as well as knocking off the dead algae so the CL can get to the living algae. Be sure you brush around any place algae can hide or doesn't have good circulation like your ladder. Good luck today.
In the presence of high FC, the pH test is not valid. Disregard pH for now and do not test for it until your FC drops below 10 (when you are done with the shock process)
The difference between 30-34ppm FC is not important. It IS important that you keep the FC up in that range, however. At this stage of the process, you could drop back to testing and dosing FC twice daily. That's the only test you need to make until your water is clear.
Are you brushing the sides of the pool if necessary? Are you vacuuming the pool often?(I see no need to vacuum to waste unless you are trying to lower your pool water level to reduce CYA)
You should see daily improvement in the clarity of the water if you are cleaning, brushing, vacuuming, etc. and keeping your FC high.
Is this a manually chlorinated pool or do you have an SWG?
The difference between 30-34ppm FC is not important. It IS important that you keep the FC up in that range, however. At this stage of the process, you could drop back to testing and dosing FC twice daily. That's the only test you need to make until your water is clear.
Are you brushing the sides of the pool if necessary? Are you vacuuming the pool often?(I see no need to vacuum to waste unless you are trying to lower your pool water level to reduce CYA)
You should see daily improvement in the clarity of the water if you are cleaning, brushing, vacuuming, etc. and keeping your FC high.
Is this a manually chlorinated pool or do you have an SWG?
Slawton, Dave S is much more knowledgeable than I am so follow his advice.
Dave - he has an SWG which is why he is maintaining such a high CYA. I suggested he vacuum to waste in order to get his CYA from 90 down to 70-80 and to help clear the water. I do not recall if he has stated what kind of filter he has.
Dave - he has an SWG which is why he is maintaining such a high CYA. I suggested he vacuum to waste in order to get his CYA from 90 down to 70-80 and to help clear the water. I do not recall if he has stated what kind of filter he has.
Yeah, I overlooked the SWG....Thanks. I also like your idea of getting that cYA a tad lower....even 60ppm in Michigan is not a bad thing but it will likely be lower when the pool is opened next Spring.
Regarding that overnight FC drop and the SWG... in order to get an accurate indication of how much FC is being consumed overnight, the SWG must be off.
You probably know that, but I don't want to assume.
You probably know that, but I don't want to assume.
Thanks for all the advice today.
I have been hammering away at it and testing every 3 hours. I have seen very little in the way of loss of FC today but I have had some, like 1-2 or so FC each time.
I didn't know all these posts were here until now so I need to get out and vacuum and brush as well. I haven't been keeping up on it like I should but the pool is not green at all either, just a cloudiness. Nonetheless, I do believe brushing/vacuuming will help too. I just have a job I have to maintain as well lol!
I have not run the SWG in quite awhile, but the filter has been on 24/7.
I also noticed my kids left a number of coins on the bottom of the pool-pennies, dimes, etc. I got them all out right away (haven't been able to see bottom so well until today). Could that have any effect on the cloudiness?
60 CYA in Michigan huh? I've been keeping it at around 80 because of suggestions I saw here. I will work on this too.
I have been hammering away at it and testing every 3 hours. I have seen very little in the way of loss of FC today but I have had some, like 1-2 or so FC each time.
I didn't know all these posts were here until now so I need to get out and vacuum and brush as well. I haven't been keeping up on it like I should but the pool is not green at all either, just a cloudiness. Nonetheless, I do believe brushing/vacuuming will help too. I just have a job I have to maintain as well lol!
I have not run the SWG in quite awhile, but the filter has been on 24/7.
I also noticed my kids left a number of coins on the bottom of the pool-pennies, dimes, etc. I got them all out right away (haven't been able to see bottom so well until today). Could that have any effect on the cloudiness?
60 CYA in Michigan huh? I've been keeping it at around 80 because of suggestions I saw here. I will work on this too.
Also the Intex is just one of those lovely paper filters. I am using the "Slimebag" as well to filter better. I also have sock on my skimmer basket to catch some stuff too, although I know that doesn't do too much.
Treating for Metals, Shocking and Coins in Pool
Can coins left on the pool bottom make a pool cloudy?
Also, can a metal's sequesterant (sp?) like HTH Metal Control be added to water while shocking?
I have been shocking for some time. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/bleach-pool-calculator-and-one-drop-at-a-time-t26358-20.html#p218445 and I can't seem to get rid of the cloudiness.
Topic merged. JasonLion
It was suggested on the thread above that perhaps I have metals in the pool. I do not use well water to fill it, but someone suggested my SWG ionizer may be the culprit.
Can coins left on the pool bottom make a pool cloudy?
Also, can a metal's sequesterant (sp?) like HTH Metal Control be added to water while shocking?
I have been shocking for some time. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/bleach-pool-calculator-and-one-drop-at-a-time-t26358-20.html#p218445 and I can't seem to get rid of the cloudiness.
Topic merged. JasonLion
It was suggested on the thread above that perhaps I have metals in the pool. I do not use well water to fill it, but someone suggested my SWG ionizer may be the culprit.
Re: Treating for Metals, Shocking and Coins in Pool
slawton,
You are getting unfocused.
If you want to clear your pool, you will only be distracted by worrying about metals. The coins will not cause cloudiness in your water.
Do not start a new thread for every issue you have. Clearing your pool is one story that all the responders need to see under one thread so you can get a meaningful answer.
Go back to your thread where I have been posting and follow those ideas. Keep brushing, keep your FC up, keep changing your filter, etc. and your pool will clear. Keep your FC at shock level and be patient.
slawton,
You are getting unfocused.
If you want to clear your pool, you will only be distracted by worrying about metals. The coins will not cause cloudiness in your water.
Do not start a new thread for every issue you have. Clearing your pool is one story that all the responders need to see under one thread so you can get a meaningful answer.
Go back to your thread where I have been posting and follow those ideas. Keep brushing, keep your FC up, keep changing your filter, etc. and your pool will clear. Keep your FC at shock level and be patient.
Sorry Dave.
The metals potential problem http://www.troublefreepool.com/i-si...and-a-life-outside-fighting-algae-t26333.html was suggested to me by "frustratedpoolmom" who, as you know, is a moderator here.
A discussion about this issue ensued there but ended with me posting some questions regarding metals and shocking on Aug. 21st that never got answers. Several days went by so I thought I would try elsewhere here.
I guess you are seeing my frustration. The days tick by, this takes up a lot of time, 17+ gallons of bleach this week alone and this is the second time I have attempted to shock. I haven't seen a clear pool since before July 25th or so and summer is coming to a close here in Michigan.
I thought perhaps the metals question was more advanced and might get some response in another area of the forum. Good to know coins won't make a difference though.
P.S. Is there a typical length of time before a pool clears? I guess I expected this to happen more quickly, particularly with as much attention I have given the situation.
I will keep at it as you have suggested but sometimes you just wonder whether or not this could be something else. When F.P.M. suggested the metals thing and others responded, it made sense with the cloudy color of the pool.
I don't mean to clog the blog so to speak, but I am attempting to learn all I can and hopefully solve my problem in duly fashion as well.
The metals potential problem http://www.troublefreepool.com/i-si...and-a-life-outside-fighting-algae-t26333.html was suggested to me by "frustratedpoolmom" who, as you know, is a moderator here.
A discussion about this issue ensued there but ended with me posting some questions regarding metals and shocking on Aug. 21st that never got answers. Several days went by so I thought I would try elsewhere here.
I guess you are seeing my frustration. The days tick by, this takes up a lot of time, 17+ gallons of bleach this week alone and this is the second time I have attempted to shock. I haven't seen a clear pool since before July 25th or so and summer is coming to a close here in Michigan.
I thought perhaps the metals question was more advanced and might get some response in another area of the forum. Good to know coins won't make a difference though.
P.S. Is there a typical length of time before a pool clears? I guess I expected this to happen more quickly, particularly with as much attention I have given the situation.
I will keep at it as you have suggested but sometimes you just wonder whether or not this could be something else. When F.P.M. suggested the metals thing and others responded, it made sense with the cloudy color of the pool.
I don't mean to clog the blog so to speak, but I am attempting to learn all I can and hopefully solve my problem in duly fashion as well.
The Intex filters are generally only barely adequate for normal filtration. Clearing a bloom will tax its capabilities. It will take a while to clear the cloudiness once the algae is dead, and if you still have an overnight FC loss, then it is not all dead.
The realities are really pretty simple: Two things will 'use up' chlorine in the pool - UV/sunlight, and organics. You will lose some FC to UV during the day (CYA helps to reduce this, but not eliminate it) but if you lose any at night then it due to trying to kill off organics in the water. This would be that pesky algae you're working on. As chlorine kills, it gets consumed. This is why you must replenish the chlorine as it does its job. If the FC level drops below shock level while the algae still lives, it will start to grow and spread again.
Additionally, the algae, as it dies, does not vanish. It will exist in the pool water as a gray cloud. It must be removed from the water by filtration, and as I mentioned, the Intex filter is pretty slow.
This is where you must have patience. What you are doing is working, and when there is no more FC loss overnight, you can let the FC drop to a normal level and focus on filtration.
The realities are really pretty simple: Two things will 'use up' chlorine in the pool - UV/sunlight, and organics. You will lose some FC to UV during the day (CYA helps to reduce this, but not eliminate it) but if you lose any at night then it due to trying to kill off organics in the water. This would be that pesky algae you're working on. As chlorine kills, it gets consumed. This is why you must replenish the chlorine as it does its job. If the FC level drops below shock level while the algae still lives, it will start to grow and spread again.
Additionally, the algae, as it dies, does not vanish. It will exist in the pool water as a gray cloud. It must be removed from the water by filtration, and as I mentioned, the Intex filter is pretty slow.
This is where you must have patience. What you are doing is working, and when there is no more FC loss overnight, you can let the FC drop to a normal level and focus on filtration.
slawson,
My reply to you was abrupt and I need to apologize. You are not used to the forum protocols we use and I shouldn't have expected you to be.
Ohm_boy's post is what I should've posted and wish now I had. his advice about the intex filters is on the money and his explanation of the only two things that cause chlorine loss is absolutely essential to understrand how to shock your pool properly. Patience will win the day. Take a deep breath and keep that pump and filter going and keep your FC up there. Your pool will clear. Next Spring might be a good time to consider upgrading to a small (.5hp) pump and sand filter.....the difference in filtering capacity is quite noticeable.
My reply to you was abrupt and I need to apologize. You are not used to the forum protocols we use and I shouldn't have expected you to be.
Ohm_boy's post is what I should've posted and wish now I had. his advice about the intex filters is on the money and his explanation of the only two things that cause chlorine loss is absolutely essential to understrand how to shock your pool properly. Patience will win the day. Take a deep breath and keep that pump and filter going and keep your FC up there. Your pool will clear. Next Spring might be a good time to consider upgrading to a small (.5hp) pump and sand filter.....the difference in filtering capacity is quite noticeable.
No worries Dave! It does make sense to keep to one tread...it was getting hard for me to keep up with it all!
Thanks for the replies and I will continue on. I've already been shopping for a sand filter for next season. Definitely the next step!
This is good to know about the gray cloud. That is a very good description of what I have been seeing.
Others here have said there are 3 criteria, the third being continue shocking until the water is sparkling clear. Are you suggesting here that when the FC holds, it is okay to stop shocking even if the water is still not sparkling clear?
Thanks for the replies and I will continue on. I've already been shopping for a sand filter for next season. Definitely the next step!
Ohm_Boy said:
This is good to know about the gray cloud. That is a very good description of what I have been seeing.
Ohm_Boy said:
Others here have said there are 3 criteria, the third being continue shocking until the water is sparkling clear. Are you suggesting here that when the FC holds, it is okay to stop shocking even if the water is still not sparkling clear?
Well... technically, that is true. You should also have a 0.5CC or less, and your water should be clear and sparkly, BUT in your case, your CC is already pretty low, and I do not expect it to be a factor. Your water will most likely be cloudy for a bit after you have all the algae dead 'cause of the filter capacity, but it would still be safe to let the FC drop to normal levels.
I agree with Ohm_Boy. Once you can pass the overnight test and the CC test you can stop shocking and let the FC return to normal. From that point I think it is a mechanical filtering problem and not an organic problem. If you want to play it safe continue to maintain the shock level for another day and have it pass the overnight test two nights in a row.
Late to the party here, but has anyone asked you about the source of your bleach? Walmart has weakened their store brand according to something I've read. Dollar store brands may be weak or out of date, though we have heard of great bleach at a dollar store at least once.