Where should my CYA level be?

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artattacktat2

artattacktat2

0
Jun 14, 2010
48
Piedmont of NC
Right now it's at 40, and by what I've read, that should be ok. I'm adding 1/2 to 1 full 187oz bottle of bleach at least every day. Should I have higher CYA levels because of the full sun (8am-7PM) My pool is blasted by full sun all day and the temp got up to 94 last Sunday. I plumbed up an evaporator last Sunday evening and dropped it 12 degrees in two evenings. Not to get off my original question, but somehow my stuff seems to work backwards. Everyone says the evaporation (cooling) process works better during the day (humidity and all that jazz) but mine actually heats at least 2 degrees while running during the day, while when I run it at night it cools at least 6 degrees, sometimes 8 a night.
 
Large temperature swings are normal, warmer during the day, colder at night. The evaporator is fighting against that natural swing, so it may not be obvious that it is working during the day, but it will be.

CYA around 40 is fine. If you want to try out a slightly higher level that is fine too. I suggest going up to 50 and seeing how that works for a while before considering trying anything higher.
 
That doesn't really sound like all that much bleach to me. Since you are getting full sun and dealing with lots of heat, it really can drive that FC loss up.

Agreeing with Jason, you could raise your CYA to 50. It sure isn't gonna hurt anything to try it.
 
Everyone says the evaporation (cooling) process works better during the day (humidity and all that jazz) but mine actually heats at least 2 degrees while running during the day, while when I run it at night it cools at least 6 degrees, sometimes 8 a night.
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I think the jury's out as to when the max cooling is provided but your temp changes you are seeing is perfectly normal.

Without the evaporator, your pool may very well heat up 4-6 degrees during the day and then cool down 2-4 degrees at night. Those are somewhat random numbers but my idea is the evaporator is having a positive effect regardless of the time of day.
 
duraleigh said:
Everyone says the evaporation (cooling) process works better during the day (humidity and all that jazz) but mine actually heats at least 2 degrees while running during the day, while when I run it at night it cools at least 6 degrees, sometimes 8 a night.
Click to expand...
I think the jury's out as to when the max cooling is provided but your temp changes you are seeing is perfectly normal.

Without the evaporator, your pool may very well heat up 4-6 degrees during the day and then cool down 2-4 degrees at night. Those are somewhat random numbers but my idea is the evaporator is having a positive effect regardless of the time of day.
Click to expand...


Completely agree neighbor! I checked it this morning and the temp was 79 (epic shrinkage) maybe I shouldn't have cooled it down so much last week especially with this recent cool snap and overcast weather. Sure hwish the weatherman could get it together. Must be nice to have a job where you can have a "50 percent chance" of getting things right, and not get fired! :grrrr:
 
It may be interesting to see a graph of temps near you to find when the low temps are recorded. When I am trying to cool the pool, I have more of my run time in those cool hours (approx 6 Am last time I looked) and I run a little at noonish just to keep chlorine circulating the spa and waterfall. Then again at night to pick up those cooler hours as well.
 
I am curious as to your evaporator/cooling. I have a full sun pool too, in SC, where we are hitting 95-100 daily. Pool is staying around 88-94. looking at ways to cool it and I am open to any ideas. Bought a heat pump when we installed the pool and the installer talked me out of the one with a 'chiller' function. Not the only thing he did that I'm not happy about!
 
Here is the one I built, took me about 15 minutes, and actually does drop my water temp 6-8 degrees overnight, and that was when evening temps in the 80's and quite humid. Just plumbed a 1 1/2" tee off a return line reduced to 1" with a few 1/8" holes drilled in it. I glued a 1" threaded union on the pool side of a 1" ball valve so I can remove it if I want or need to, and the ball valve allows me to control the flow. I plumbed for several years, so this part was easier for me than this whole water chemistry mystery. :-D

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artattacktat2: this is why my wife and I want to move to SC, (seriously, it's our chosen state). Cooling our pool is not a problem we have to worry about. I can only aerate when the ambient temps are above about 85. We've had a pretty decent NE Ohio summer but the solar cover stays on all but a few days and keeping warm is always harder here than cooling down.

BTW - your deck is awesome.
 
Well, SC is where I am at, and we did add a heater to extend our season. Our full sun pool has no problems staying warm. I am trying to decide on the best cooling method. It REALLY needs to be a little cooler. Stays in the 90's (water temp) almost all the time right now.
 
Love the deck!!
My pool is cloudy and I did a CYA test this morning, WOW it's 100+ :shock: :shock:
I backwash regularly when I vac and I"m wondering if I can just let it be for the next couple weeks? When I close it I'll drain a lot of water out which will be replaced with a lot come spring (snow load is big here). I will be replacing a lot of water in the spring. Am I going to hurt anything leaving it? Yep, I'll have cloudy water, but will I have any other issues?
TIA
 
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