I have not been able to successfully perform a CH test due to the fading endpoint. The posts I have read here say copper in the water is to blame for the fading endpoint. I do not see any signs of copper staining. Do I need to test for copper, or even worry about it? I suspect the copper came from algaecides from the previous owners. When they demo the pool to me they mentioned taking the water into Leslie's Pool and asking them to fix it.
Fading Endpoint on CH Test
- Thread starter dallasjava
- Start date
There is a post in the Testing and Balancing section on extended testing instructions. Have you tried following the recommendations in it?
Dave, I tried the first suggestion which was to add five drops of the reagent first before the buffer which unfortunately did not work. I need to grab some distilled water for the second solution. That will allow me to test for the calcium hardness level. This obviously needs to be tested, but what I am asking is do I need to be worried about the presence of copper in my water.
Without additional signs of copper in the water, I wouldn't worry about it. The CH test can react to several different metals, some of which are harmless.
Thanks Jason. Assuming rain water is metal free I should slowly get a drop over time.
The dilution method and the speed stir worked. My CH is at 360. Does this mean I need to keep a very watchful eye on my TA and PH? It is a SWCG plaster pool.
Actually 360 isn't bad at all. Post a full set of test results and we an better advise on what, if anything, needs adjusting.
Dave,
Certainly. Here they are:
FC 6.5
CC 0.0
PH 7.5
TA 80
CH 360
CYA 65 (added on Thursday, July 22) and measured on Monday so I suspect it is still rising some)
I actually a little concerned that I may be producing too much chlorine. It is a 20% which is as low as it can go and pump run time is at 6.5 hours. I need to figure out my turn time. It is a Pentair VS.f
Certainly. Here they are:
FC 6.5
CC 0.0
PH 7.5
TA 80
CH 360
CYA 65 (added on Thursday, July 22) and measured on Monday so I suspect it is still rising some)
I actually a little concerned that I may be producing too much chlorine. It is a 20% which is as low as it can go and pump run time is at 6.5 hours. I need to figure out my turn time. It is a Pentair VS.f
I hope "PH 6.5" is a typo; if it was 7.5, I'd say your numbers are sweet, except it's a salt pool.... well, the numbers can still be sweet!
If pH really is 6.5, you want to bring it up to the mid-7's pronto.
--paulr
If pH really is 6.5, you want to bring it up to the mid-7's pronto.
--paulr
Paulr, yes it was a typo, and the ph is 7.5. Thank you for pointing that out. I fixed my post.
Your numbers are sweeeet, well except that your FC is a little high. You might consider running your SWCG on a different timer from your pump so you can adjust the FC down a bit. I wouldn't recommend less than 6 hours of pump run time, but others run their's less.
Dave, would I just wire the timer in between the power transformer for the SWCG and the existing timer? Here's a picture of the setup:
Here's one with the door open:
Here's one with the door open:
Yes, that's what I would do. You just have to make sure the timer motor has power all the time so it keeps time. Since you have power into the dual timer box, that's easy.