iceflow said:
Thanks.
Actually I never pulled it apart to repair the tears. I was able to see them. Anyway I'll proceed with caution when dismantling it. The reason I posted is I had a pal that pulled one of these apart and said he had a devil of a job fitting it back together. Maybe he just didn't watch what he was doing. Thanks for the info.
Regards
Chris
It might help to take some pictures of the grid/manifold assembly, from all angles, before taking it apart. Also, find the manual online and print it up.
Manual
http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/FNSOM.pdf
With searching you can get really good prices for a whole set of grids, online. For my old, 36 sq ft, I found a whole set for about $100.
Before disassembling, use a magic marker to mark where the bolt are located on the long rods, top and bottom.
Word of caution, too. When you put each grid into the hole of the manifold work it in slowly and don't "brute force" too much. As you are doing it watch to make sure the fabric around the tube, of the grid, fits into the hole nicely. When you put the long bolts back in you can tighten each bolt and then the other, and then back to the first and so forth. That will see-saw the grids more firmly into the holes of manifold. A very, very, very gentle tap on the manifold top (VERY GENTLE), at several places, with a rubber mallet, helps to get them in too. Do some see-saw tightening, and then do a little tapping. Do that again, etc.
When you have the manifold top and bottom grid holder off inspect them well. Check the nibs that hold the grids in place, top manifold and bottom grid holder. If any are broken it may cause the grids to squish together, when at high pressure, and may allow them to flap around some, putting undue stress on the skeleton of the grids, and lower your filtration efficiency. Broken nibs may also allow more DE to be retained in the filter when backwashing.
I've never done it but there may be something that one can put on the tube to make it slide into the manifold holes more easily.
Lets let some experts comment on that.
Before you put the top of filter back on inspect any O-rings you see. Clean and lubricate them, or replace (inexpensive) if needed. Inspect that the manifold screen is present and in good condition. The size of the screen is from about .5" or larger and is located on the top of the main manifold.
Clean well the filter body around where the bit huge O-ring goes, where the top and bottom fit together. Check the O-ring for integrity. Clean it well and lubricate it. I've had one last for 19 years by keeping it clean and lubricated and using non-silicone 303 Space Protectant to revitalize and protect the rubber.
Inspect the clamp bolts and nuts well. This is a good time to replace them if needed and put something like white grease on them. The
edit nut not bolt is the most likely thing to break down. Note that the bolts are a special kind that has nibs near the head to keep the bolt from turning when you tighten it down (old style). On new style make sure of the integrety of the spring/bolt/washer assenbly. I misplaced one of the heavy duty washers on my new Pentair filter so used a couple of light duty washers. (I found it later) But the light duty washers, doubled stacked, deformed from the pressure.
During tightening down the clamp, gently tap around the clamp band a few times between tightening the bolts. This helps to seat it properly.
I previously had a stainless steel filter so I didn't have any problems with itchy arm from handling the filter body. Some filter containers can irritate your skin when you grasp around them. Wear long sleeves or spray arms with hair spray to avoid this.
Hope this helps some.
gg=alice
