I installed a new SWG and for the past 3 days it worked great! Now it had an alarm that's going off saying that it had a High Salt Level! I'm SO frustrated! I have read and read some more!! It's a SWG 8111. Any input is definatly needed!!
Alarm on SWG
- Thread starter RBratton
- Start date
I installed a new SWG and for the past 3 days it worked great! Now it had an alarm that's going off saying that it had a High Salt Level! I'm SO frustrated! I have read and read some more!! It's a SWG 8111. Any input is definatly needed!!
I would have it tested to ensure it is actually high. There could have been some error in the calculation for how much salt to put in. Testing would rule out that salt level is an issue and point more towards the SWG.
The salt level can fluctuate high and low for the first 24 hours after you add salt. If it hasn't been 24 hour since you added salt, turn the unit off, leave the pump running, and try again when it has been 24 hours and the pump has been running for a while.
If the problem persists, you will need to replace some water to bring the salt level down.
If the problem persists, you will need to replace some water to bring the salt level down.
Thank you both for your information. I will wait for a day to turn the SWG on and get the water tested. Thanks again!
You mention that you will get the water tested. Many folks on this forum have said that PSS do not test correctly. I have not had a PSS test my water for at least 2 years.RBratton said:
My 2 cents: I suggest purchasing your own independent salt water test kit, whether it's test strips from the pool store or (my personal preference, hint hint) the salt test kit from tftestkits.net. It is around $25; it can save you some confusion & stress when the SWG alarm comes on (by way of just testing the water yourself so you can eliminate the issue of not enough or too much salt right then & there.)
There is debate on whether it is necessary to independently test your salt when you have a SWG control panel telling you what your salt ppm is. My personal preference is to independently test but some folks opt to trust the SWG reading completely.
I am concerned that you just put in what the instructions told you to put in.
Most pool start with a fairly high salt content. Before I added any salt my pool was over 1,000 ppm. Did you assume that your pool did not have any salt? If so you may have added too much salt!
Most pool start with a fairly high salt content. Before I added any salt my pool was over 1,000 ppm. Did you assume that your pool did not have any salt? If so you may have added too much salt!
Thank you sonflower. I had thought about buying a test kit to test myself. I will definatly try the one that you suggested. That would save me alot of money I'm sure. Since every time I go to a pool store I come out with way more pool and patio stuff than I need. ; )
Steve are you saying that just regular tap water that I filled my pool with already has salt in it? Thanks Steve for that bit of information that the pool and pump intructions failed to mention!
Steve are you saying that just regular tap water that I filled my pool with already has salt in it? Thanks Steve for that bit of information that the pool and pump intructions failed to mention!
I have never tested my fill water for salt; perhaps I should. Prior to installing a SWG we used cal-hypo and bleach. I know that bleach adds salt to the pool water. Chem geek posted the following:
"ALL sources of chlorine add salt because when the chlorine gets used up / consumed it results in salt. For every 10 ppm FC added by ANY source of chlorine, it will result in 8.2 ppm salt from the consumed chlorine that turns into chloride salt. With bleach, chlorinating liquid, and lithium hypochlorite, there is an additional 8.2 ppm salt upon addition so the net total result is 16.5 ppm. However, even at 3 ppm FC per day chlorine usage for 6 months this is around 890 ppm added salt if you had no water dilution." See bleach-leaves-to-much-salt-in-the-pool-t25232.html
You will save time, money, and frustration if you do all the water testing yourself. Pool stores use water testing methods that are fast so they can quickly sell products and move on to the next customer. If your water quality is beginning to show problems waiting a day or two until you have time to run to the pool store to have the water tested will only make the problem worse and more expensive to resolve.
For example, if you go to the pool calculator, http://www.poolcalculator.com/ , and see the CSI, you will see that proper pH control is important to preventing scaling of your SWG plates.
I have not relied on pool store testing for three years and our pool has improved in feel and appearance.
"ALL sources of chlorine add salt because when the chlorine gets used up / consumed it results in salt. For every 10 ppm FC added by ANY source of chlorine, it will result in 8.2 ppm salt from the consumed chlorine that turns into chloride salt. With bleach, chlorinating liquid, and lithium hypochlorite, there is an additional 8.2 ppm salt upon addition so the net total result is 16.5 ppm. However, even at 3 ppm FC per day chlorine usage for 6 months this is around 890 ppm added salt if you had no water dilution." See bleach-leaves-to-much-salt-in-the-pool-t25232.html
You will save time, money, and frustration if you do all the water testing yourself. Pool stores use water testing methods that are fast so they can quickly sell products and move on to the next customer. If your water quality is beginning to show problems waiting a day or two until you have time to run to the pool store to have the water tested will only make the problem worse and more expensive to resolve.
For example, if you go to the pool calculator, http://www.poolcalculator.com/ , and see the CSI, you will see that proper pH control is important to preventing scaling of your SWG plates.
I have not relied on pool store testing for three years and our pool has improved in feel and appearance.
Thank you Steve. I have a better understanding now. Also just bought a home tester so I'll test this evening and turn the SWG back on and hopefully with no alarms this time.
All home test kits are not equal. You will not be in control of your pool unless you have a test kit that includes titration testing of Cl and a view tube CYA test. Most test kits for Cl require a color comparison. This is not sufficiently accurate.
To determine if you have organics in the pool you need titration testing of Cl using an overnight test. Accurate FC and CC testing will ensure that your SWG is generating the minimum amount of Cl to avoid algae. If you are generating more Cl than necessary you are shortening the life of your SWG plates. Most people on this forum will tell you that they gained control of their pool and started saving money on chemicals after they obtained a good test kit. Here is a comparison of test kits:
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
You should test the salt level of the pool water. To obtain the benefit of the members you need to submit all your water test results.
To determine if you have organics in the pool you need titration testing of Cl using an overnight test. Accurate FC and CC testing will ensure that your SWG is generating the minimum amount of Cl to avoid algae. If you are generating more Cl than necessary you are shortening the life of your SWG plates. Most people on this forum will tell you that they gained control of their pool and started saving money on chemicals after they obtained a good test kit. Here is a comparison of test kits:
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
You should test the salt level of the pool water. To obtain the benefit of the members you need to submit all your water test results.
Just to update on the alarm...... It as not gone off again. It do believe it was that I didn't wait long enough to turn the SWG just like Jason suggested. Got the home tester as you all suggested and numbers are perfect. I even put the pool calculator and this site as apps on my phone. I have read for hours on TFP and learned a great deal. I thank you all for your input, info and suggestions.
My current readings:
FC=3
PH=7.2
TA=100
CA=200
My current readings:
FC=3
PH=7.2
TA=100
CA=200