I have a AquaRite generator for a 40,000 gal. The pool is roughly 21-22,000 gallons. I have a Intelliflo VS-3050 run by a suntouch and a hayward DE filter. I run the pump at 1200 rpm for 18 hours and 2700 rpm for 4 hours (to boost my cleaner). I have turned my generator down to 30% and I am still getting high chlorine readings. I don't know my flow rate and my next purchase will be a flow meter. My pool builder isn't very familiar with the Intelliflo (prefers 2-speed) or the Suntouch so he is not much help. Are my only options reducing the time on low speed or turning generator percentage down lower. Is there a downside to turning the generator lower? I don't want to turn the rpm on lower speed below 1200 because I don't feel it circulates the water enough. Any help would be appreciated.
Generating too much chlorine
- Thread starter chadt1234
- Start date
chadt1234 said:
Nope, it should last you a nice long time...
What are your test results? (curious about your 'high' chlorine reading...)
There's no harm in turning the SWCG's output down lower. In fact you should set it to whatever it takes to maintain the FC at the appropriate level for your CYA.
FPM beat me again. :x Like that's a surprise!
FPM beat me again. :x Like that's a surprise!
I don't know the actual number for the Chlorine. On my test strips it is dark purple, which correlates to high on the bottle. You can smell chlorine on your hands after dipping them into the water. The kids complain about their eyes stinging pretty quickly.
Stinging eyes are usually attributed to CCs or PH that's out of range.
We recommend drop based test kits - they are far more accurate than strips.
Test Kit Comparison
We recommend drop based test kits - they are far more accurate than strips.
Test Kit Comparison
I'll get a kit and test it. I just figured the strong chlorine smell and "high" reading went with the stinging eyes. Didn't have the smell when I was just running on one speed and chlorine was in the "ok" range. I just recently figured out the suntouch and got the schedules to run the way I want them to.
Turns out I had a Pentair test kit. The reading was brighter yellow that the scale went. The only numerical demarcation for the amount of chlorine was 3CL. I don't know what that means. The test strips I have say its around 10ppm. I turned the SWCG down to 10%. On top of that it's been raining a lot and the chlorine level hasn't budged. On another note. I have been told by my builder to turn the pool 2 times a day. Other places say 1 to 1.5 times a day. If my water is clear and there is no algae and my chlorine level is good, does it matter how many times it turns a day?
One turnover is the minimum... you can start with the number of hours it takes you to get two, and then work your way back hour by hour to one, checking for clarity, algae etc. if your water is still sparkling at one turnover and you see no noticeable issues than one is fine... just make sure some of those hours are during peak sun to prevent FC dead spots.
The Pentair kit is not one of the recommended kits. There is an amazing difference between the two kits we recommend and all others. They simply don't measure up. Plus they measure FC and CC up to 50ppm which other kits simply can't do, and they are drop count tests - not shades of colors that you compare to a chart. They are really useful.
What about your PH? Did you test that?
The Pentair kit is not one of the recommended kits. There is an amazing difference between the two kits we recommend and all others. They simply don't measure up. Plus they measure FC and CC up to 50ppm which other kits simply can't do, and they are drop count tests - not shades of colors that you compare to a chart. They are really useful.
What about your PH? Did you test that?
You will not find agreement on the number of hours that you should operate your pool filter. I personally believe that a pool owner should operate their pool pump only a sufficient number of hours to properly filter their pool and mix the pool chemicals. Many people find this may be only 6 or 8 hours per day. Running the pump for more hours will only increase your electricity cost and increase the carbon dioxide emitted by the electric power plant. Pool pumps, refrigerators, and AC consume the most electricity of household appliances.
If you look at any pump flow charts you will quickly see that running a pump at low speed is more efficient than running a pump at high speed. Think of high speed of causing more resistance to the flow of the water.
I know that this is counter intuitive but a Cl smell is often the smell of chloramines which indicate that the FC level is too low. If you have chloramines you need to shock the pool. What is your CC?
Consider slowly reducing the number of hours you operate your filter pump. After you have established the number of hours you want to operate the pool pump then set the per cent run time for your SWG.
I suggest if you want to be able to obtain the best advise from members that you submit a full set of test results. A result that a test is in the normal range does not provide sufficient information that anyone can make an informed comment.
If you look at any pump flow charts you will quickly see that running a pump at low speed is more efficient than running a pump at high speed. Think of high speed of causing more resistance to the flow of the water.
I know that this is counter intuitive but a Cl smell is often the smell of chloramines which indicate that the FC level is too low. If you have chloramines you need to shock the pool. What is your CC?
Consider slowly reducing the number of hours you operate your filter pump. After you have established the number of hours you want to operate the pool pump then set the per cent run time for your SWG.
I suggest if you want to be able to obtain the best advise from members that you submit a full set of test results. A result that a test is in the normal range does not provide sufficient information that anyone can make an informed comment.
coog61
0
mas985 said:
chadt1234
See the post above. Download the spreadsheet and plug in the watt reading from the Intelliflow (go to Intelliflow > pump > status to get this). This should give your an approx estimate of your gallons per miniute (GPM) from which you can determine your turnover.
FYI - I'm in Texas (Hot!) and running the pump at 2,200 RPM for 9 hrs and the SWG at ~40%. Although I could run the pump at a lower rate and acheive one turnover per day, the higher RPM gives the nice spa spill over sight and sound. In the fall/winter I will gradually reduce the hours and the %.
right now the chlorine level seems to be in line. Took the some water to get tested and they said everything was in balance. The chlorine was on the high side of normal but they said that should go down since I adjusted the SWCG down the day before. I realized Saturday that I've been running the high speed about 10% higher than I thought, so with that adjusted down I should be looking to turn the percentage up in the next few days.
coog61- Where do you find the watt readout for the intelliflo. My Suntouch has a "pumps" menu which is set on intelliflo VS but I don't think it gives me info. It's just a way to change the RPMs of the speeds.
coog61- Where do you find the watt readout for the intelliflo. My Suntouch has a "pumps" menu which is set on intelliflo VS but I don't think it gives me info. It's just a way to change the RPMs of the speeds.
coog61
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chadt1234 said:
Anywhere to check "status" for the Intelliflow? If not, I guess this is just a feature for the EasyTouch control