Complete Drain and Refill

First and foremost Test Kit!!!

Do not buy PhosFree.

Are you familiar with the pool calculator? (link in my signature)

Add:
  • Bleach or Liquid Chlorine to get up to 2
    CYA (stabilizer) to bring CYA up to 30-50 (depending on how much sun exposure). Hang in a sock in front of a return with the pump running.
    Muriatic Acid to bring pH down to 7.5

You can do these pretty much at the same time (let the bleach mix for a while before adding acid).

You can massage the sock periodically to help the CYA along.

Once the CYA is dissolved, assume that you have reached the target and dose chlorine based on that. (chart link in my signature)
 
Thanks for the quick response.

I was duped into buying PhosFree a couple of months ago, before discovering TFP, and learning it was a scam.

I am on my way to a different Leslies to buy CYA, Muriatic acid, and a test kit. I am taking a second sample to this store to see what they show, then I will test it with my new test kit, myself.

I have already bought Borax, baking soda, and chlorine. When does the Borax get added?
 
I highly recommend getting an FAS/DPD test kit. I am 99% sure that you will not find one at a pool store. Taylor makes the k-2006 wich is fine, but not as good a deal as the TFTestkits TF-100 that I linked to above. The k-2005 is NOT the same.

Borax has two purposes:
  1. To raise pH. You may never need to do this as your pH will likely drift up over time.[/*:m:1zxyeia2]
  2. In large quantities (along with large quantities of muriatic acid) to bring borates to 50ppm. This is and advanced BBB technique to stabilize pH and also acts as an algicide.[/*:m:1zxyeia2]

Baking soda is to raise TA. You don't need this either (TA is already high).
 
Given your current numbers you don't need the borax, keep it though you may need it later. (Borax rasies pH yours is already too high, depending on local conditions (type or soil that gets into the pool, type of fill water, pool finish, etc.) it may drift up or down)

Ike

p.s. if you have already bought a K-2005 kit it can be useful in managing your pool if your CYA levels are under 40 ppm, you could upgrade it with just a FAS-DPD chlorine test and have about the same thing as the K-2006 or TF-100 (I also think the TF-100 is the far better deal)
 
Thanks for the replies. I picked up the hardner and CYA, and left without a test kit. Figured I have time to get the right kit.

This Leslies shows:

FC = 1.5
PH = 8.0
TA = 100
CH = 150
CYA = 0
Phosphates = 0

Wonder how I got my phosphates to lower that quickly :?
 
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